FALL ON ICEAlberta-, Banff National Park, Cascade Mountain, Cascade WaterfallOn January 3, a party of two was climbing on Cascade Waterfall (300 m. Ill WI3). Sometime between 1500 and 1600, the victim was leading final moves of the last pitch when...
Khawaja Muhammed Group. An expedition from Munich, led by Dr. Axel von Hillebrandt and made up of Jochen Edrich, Dr. Erwin Grötzbach, Hans Huber, Rainer Köfferlein and Ekke Rübel, climbed a peak of c. 18,375 feet, which they called Koh-e-München, ...
Annapurna South Attempt. A French expedition led by Patrick Jacquenot failed to climb Annapurna South by the east ridge. Despite eleven members and two Sherpas above Base Camp, they reached only 21,325 feet on October 21 and abandoned the climb be...
Sickle Moon and Brammah I, 1979, Correction. On page 637 of A.A.J. 1980 we gave erroneous information about a Japanese expedition; a correct account appears on page 158 of Iwa To Yuki, N° 74. The 10- man Japanese Alpine Club expedition led by Kats...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The 1965 summer camp was held at Glacier Lake in Banff National Park with 159 members and friends in attendance. This is a beautiful area with the Lyell Glacier dominating the scene to the west and Mount Murchison to the...
Artesonraju, Ski Descent. The ski descent expedition to Artesonraju consisted of Peter Werschkul, Jack Leaven, Doug Greene and me. In 1978 Patrick Vallençant first skied this peak by the same route. I was the first American and second person to do...
Darrah-i-Pinawi Peaks. The Ohtsu Alpine Club of Shiga prefecture sent Yoshitada Kiuchi, leader, Seibun Matsushita, Shunzo Nakanishi, Yoshio Tsujii, Kenji Matsushima and Dr. Michiaki Sato into the Darrah-i-Pinawi, a branch of the Tagabe Munjan. Bas...
El Guardián and Peaks of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Despite bad conditions we climbed the following peaks: Pico Tairona (16,404 feet) on July 20 via south face by John Kay, Dave Snoswell, Chris Spencer, Dick Skaife; El Guardián (17,343 feet...
FALL ON ROCK–LOWERING ERROR, NO HARD HATOregon, Smith Rock State Park, Left Slab Crack.On November 29, Kathy Lee and her friend Becky Hsu (both 27) were meeting some new friends at The Dihedrals at Smith Rock. The friends were late, so Kathy and B...
New Routes on Symmetry Spire. In July 1949 Lee Pedrick and Richard Pownall made the complete ascent of the conspicuous crack which runs directly up the S. wall of Symmetry Spire (10,546 ft.). Previous attempts had been made by Fritz Wiessner, who ...
Abi Gamin. This peak (24,130 feet) was climbed on July 6 by Nandlal Purchit and two Sherpas from Camp II. The expedition was led by Hemant Patel and sponsored by the Gujarat State Council of Sports.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Kangtega Attempt. Akemi Maeda, Hiroyuki Aoki and I left Lukla on April 1 for Base Camp at 4800 meters on the east side of Kangtega, where we arrived on the 4th. Maeda lost consciousness from mountain sickness and so we carried her down to Tangnag....
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount RainierAt noon on July 21, 1985, Ranger Phillips was notified by Ranger Rick Kirschner that an injured climber was stranded near 2875 meters on Success Cleaver, with a possible fractured left ankle.At 0530 the Brian G...
Cordillera de Olivares, Nevado de Bauchaceta. A group composed of Miguel Beorchia Nigris, Luis Pontoriero, and I arrived at the post of Tocota in the last days of January 2002, thanks to the help of Gendarmeria Nacional (Border Police). From there...
Carrizal, Cordillera Central. A German group led by the Austrian, Hannes Gasser of the Alpinschule Innsbruck, was prevented by the earthquake from going to the Cordillera Blanca in June 1970. Instead, they left the Lima-La Oroya road just north of...
Tilitso Attempt. This group of 34 French, Spaniards and a Belgian was really more like three trekking parties out to try a 7000er. The first group reached Base Camp on October 13 but deep snow prevented their porters from bringing the necessary ba...
Tetons. During the past few years many important new climbs have been made in the Tetons. Since for one reason or another these have not been published, it seems appropriate to give a summary of them here from south to north.
Mount Logan West Peak on Skis. The Tokai University Alpine Club party was composed of Yoshio Ohkubo, Kiyoshi Takabayashi, Junichi Saito and me. On the afternoon of May 16 we flew by jet helicopter across the “green kingdom of wild animals” and lan...
Volcán Reclus (1,425m). On April 13, 2008, Natalia Martinez (Argentina) and I established base camp at the head of Amalia Fjord, on the west side of the Southern Patagonian Icefield. The camp was nine km west of Volcán Reclus, one of five volcanoe...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, INATTENTION, UNROPED, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Asulkan Range, Mount LedaOn April 10, an experienced mountaineer, Greg S. (40), registered with the Warden Service at Rogers Pass for ski mountaineering, an...