Mount Deborah, Attempt on East Buttress. (This extraordinarily difficult climb was also attempted in 1964 by a group from the Harvard Mountaineering Club. See A.A.J., 1965, 14:2, pp. 405-6—Editor.) Our expedition got off to a poor start with the l...

Northern Rockies Section. The Northern Rockies Section started out the year with its 2nd annual Sun Valley Dinner on January 7 at The Cellars Pub. Jamie Laidlaw, a Hans Sari Grant Recipient, presented a show of his most recent exploratory trip to ...

Grosshorn, North Face, Berneroberland. On September 2 and 3 Phillip Fanchon and I climbed the north face of the Grosshorn by a new route. We followed the Welzenbach route through the first rock band and then, instead of traversing left toward the ...

Alpamayo and Santa Cruz, New Routes. On June 15, Kenzo Suzuki (Japan) left Base Camp (4850m) at 11 p.m. and climbed the 1979 Tomo Cesen route on the southeast face of Alpamayo until he reached the Andes route. The next day, he climbed original gro...

Luyacpani, Cordillera Blanca. The Harvard students, John Terborgh and Jared Diamond, with the Peruvian porter Augusto Jamanca, on July 9 made the first ascent of Luyacpani (18,045 feet). This mountain, which they approached from the Quebrada Quesh...

Mount Everest, New Route on Southwest Face. The objective of the expedition was to climb Mount Everest by a new route on the southwest face to the left of the Bonington Couloir. The expedition consisted of 25 members: 17 climbers, camera crew, a d...

Ruth Glacier, Peak 10,370'; Peak 11,300' attempt; Moose’s Tooth, Shaken Not Stirred. On May 15 Jared Ogden and I were dropped by Talkeetna Air Taxi on the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier. Our plan was to try the east face of Mt. Huntington, but the ...

Attempt on Tirich Mir from Southwest. Tatsuyuki Okamoto, leader, Masataka Suzuki and Hirobumi Wada left Chitral on June 28 and made Base Camp at 14,100 feet on the moraine of the Dir Gol on July 2. Thinking the danger at the beginning of the buttr...

Bandako. The (Austrian) Eisenerz Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Johann Seitner and composed of Adolf Huber, Horst Loder, and Helmut Woger. On July 8 Huber, Loder and Seidner climbed Bandako (22,- 450 feet), the third ascent. On the 12th all clim...

Colorado. On the Bastille in Eldorado Canyon, Lauren Husted, Chester Dreiman and I made the first ascent of the unlikely yet captivating 5.10 Western Union. Two fixed pitons protected the crux, a thin, vertical crack. Dreiman and I later discovere...

FALL ON ROCK-LOWERING ERROR, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESUtah, Parley's Canyon, Salt Lake CityOn June 17, CH (19), DK (19), and LH (19) were climbing in Parley’s Canyon, Salt Lake City. DK was preparing to climb, belayed...

British Army Mountaineering Association Expedition to West Greenland. An eight-man expedition mounted by the Army Mountaineering Association spent six weeks in the Ikamiut area near Sukkertoppen from late July to early September. The area had prev...

Rasac, West Face, Left Buttress. On July 17 Guus Lambregts and I approached the west face of Rasac from our Base Camp at Jahuacocha. From the second lake at 4620 meters in the Quebrada Rasac we climbed easy rocks and reached the north rim of the g...

Mount Logan. The Mountain Travel group for which I was responsible climbed Mount Logan on July 7. The main peak was reached by Dr. L. Olin, Dr. J. Prahl, Dick Dietz and Sharon Crawford. The same four plus John Fischer and Mr. and Mrs. L. Sherwood ...

Dak Tower, Flowers for Blaise, and Mt. McArthur, Some Kind of Monster. Between spells of consistently bad weather, Joe Josephson (Bozeman, MT) and David Dornian (Calgary, AB) climbed two new routes in the Mt. Logan area between May 29 and June 3. ...

Southwestern Mountaineers. The Southwestern Mountaineers is a club of climbers, hikers, cavers, and general nature lovers whose membership is drawn mainly from Las Cruces, New Mexico, and its environs. Our main climbing activity is in the Organ Mo...

Tirich Mir. Our expedition consisted of Anton Knecht, Eric Marchand, Paul Beyeler, Ernst Hunziker, Heinz Fahrer, Pierre Galland, Daniel Chevallier and me as leader. We climbed the Czech route of 1968. After a four-day approach, we reached Base Cam...

Montana: Glacier National Park. During the summer of 1949, Tom Moulds, a 23-year old University of Washington student from Santa Barbara, California, fell into a canyon from the snow- covered sides of 9,147-foot Reynolds Mountain while he was hiki...

California, Yosemite National Park. On 14 October Jim Madsen (20) and four others went to the top of El Capitan to go to the aid of two climbers who had been on the Dihedral Wall since 9 October. The weather had been rainy and cold and Madsen and ...

Ama Dablam Solo. After the Tawoche climb with Roskelley and Bridwell was given up, our Japanese American Alpine Club member, Naoe Sakashita, headed alone for Ama Dablam’s south ridge. After reconnaissance, on April 30 he bivouacked at 5700 meters....