In the Zone: Epic Survival Stories From the Mountaineering World. Peter Potterfield. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1996. Photographs. 270 pages. $22.95.Two of the three tales from In the Zone are of a most compelling kind—the sagas of those victims o...
Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt. Japanese led by Tsutomu Dobashi on the north ridge of Ama Dablam in the winter of 1984-5 got to 6600 meters before being forced to quit.Elizabeth Hawley
Nanda DeviCharles S. Houston And there she was!Cresting the ragged rocks, casually scatteredBy some huge force, we gapedStar-struck across the flowered fieldsTo where the Goddess rose.Like some vast sculpture madeBy powers not conceived by man,The...
Apu Wall, Pararasapac Inti. In summer 2006 Odín Pérez noticed a big unclimbed granite wall in the Quebrada Ishinca. Back in Mexico he showed me pictures, and I was committed to climbing it.We arrived in Huaraz on July 17 and soon established base ...
Nandakhat and Bauljuri. After an approach march complicated by heavy rains which had washed out a bridge over the Pindari River, Dr. Deepak Kulkami, Milind Pathak, Dr. Suhas Mate, Dr. Deepak Rokade, Vishwas Kunte, Anil Chavas, Vishwas Dixit, Ulhas...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee took a very positive stand on educating and upgrading its climbing leaders and members this year. The Basic Climbing School enrolled 270 people and graduated 163 in a course consisting of four lectures, three fi...
Traprock. Ken Nichols: The American Alpine Club. 1983, 479 pages, black-and-white photographs, sketches, maps. $19.25.In the beginning there were no guidebooks. And lo this was good. Wind and rock and sky and man were free with one another. And la...
At the end of April, Luka Krajnc, Alenka Lukic, Miha and Milena Praprotnik, and my wife Tanja and I, accompanied by Moroccan climber Jonathan, traveled to Taghia village, situated in an incredible canyon landscape of the High Atlas. Snowy peaks, g...
John Hubalek (23) was climbing Baxter’s Pinnacle on July 6, 1987, with Randy Harrington. At 1445, Harrington was leading the second pitch of the south ridge when a foothold that he was standing on broke off. A rock, 25 to 30 centimeters in diamete...
Welcome to PatagoniaA primer for wild walls and wilder weatherby Charlie FowlerNovember 28, 1997. I’m in Kathmandu, crippled by a 1,500-foot tumble down a mountain in west Tibet. Anatoli Boukreev, on his way to Annapurna, takes me to the airport a...
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.orgDamien Gildea acknowledges contributions from Simon Abrahams, Ludovic Challeat, Patrick Degerman, Bob...
Legends of Mount PilatusJ. Monroe ThoringtonTHE Spreuer bridge, with its 17th-century Dance of Death, spans the river Reuss at its entrance to the Lake of Lucerne. Across the lake rises the Rigi, the mountain of rock stripes, while above the ancie...
The Snowshoe Book, by William Osgood and Leslie Hurley. Brattleboro, Vermont: Stephen Greene Press, 1972. 128 pages, $3.95The Snowshoe Book is straight-forward, informative, and unbiased almost to the point of dullness. It is logically divided int...
On January 12, MM (34) and KS partnered up to climb a 35-meter pillar of ice known as The Fang (WI5). MM instructed KS on their approach where to stand for a safe belay. MM started his lead by climbing on the opposite side of the cauliflower to th...
Unclimbed New Zealand, by John Pascoe. 8vo., pp. 236, with numerous illustrations and maps. New York: The Macmillan Co., 1939. Price $5.50.Exploratory mountaineering in New Zealand and elsewhere should have a big boost if this excellent book enjoy...
Tigray, Adwa, Nebelet, and Harrar; new routes and exploration. On November 30, Mark Wilford, my wife Teresa, and I flew from Addis Ababa to Mekele to explore the rock climbing of the Tigray region. We had learned of its climbing potential from Pat...
RAPPEL FAILURE—California, Sierra Nevada Palisades. A group of three teenagers climbed from a glacier camp via the U Notch and chimney to the summit of North Palisade by noon after a 0730 start. They began a class 3 traverse north on the east side...
TOM WILSON1859-1933Tom Wilson, last of the Canadian Pacific trail-blazers and explorers, died at Banff on September 20th, 1933, at the age of seventy-four.His life was so full of meaning in everything pertaining to human interest that, in order to...
Mustagh Tower. Our Swedish expedition managed to put two men on the summit of the Mustagh Tower (7273 meters, 23,862 feet) when Göran Kropp and Anders Rafael Hensen reached the top via the northwest ridge on August 17. This was the fourth successf...
The Bailey Trail, a rare trek in Arunachal Pradesh. During the month of October a team of three Indians comprising Huzefa Electricwala, Dr. Kamal Limdi, and I trekked in the rarely frequented valleys of Arunachal Pradesh, North East India. We firs...