Shinkun East. A seven-member Indian team, led by Subrata Chakraborty and organized by the Himalayan Club, made the first ascent of Shinkun East (6,081m), which rises to the west of the Shinkun (formerly Shingo) La. Shinkun East is a relatively ins...
Mount Robson. Mount Robson was the scene of many attempts this past summer. The northwest ridge saw two attemps—one by Willi Pfisterer, the Austrian guide, and two others who got to within 250 feet of the summit in early July. Dangerously loose po...
"Watermelon” and "Siffleur" Peaks. Having packed in the previous day from the Jasper Highway via the Helen Creek trail over Dolomite Pass, on July 22 David Michael, Graham Matthews, Moses Goddard, Lynne Stearns, Rob Wallace and I made the first as...
Broad Peak. Two Japanese expeditions successfully climbed Broad Peak by the normal route. Koji Sekine was the leader of one and Nima Temba Sherpa was the climbing leader. On July 21, Masakatsu Tamura, Nobuhiro Tsuji and porters Rajib Shah and Sarw...
Mount Thor, West Face, Diagonal Buttress, Weasel Valley, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. The diagonal buttress on the west face of Mount Thor angles upward to the north shoulder, forming the left retaining wall for a dike of red hematite. ...
Denali, Mascioli’s Pillar, New Route. On June 15-16, Steve House and Steve Swenson made the first ascent of what formerly was known as the Radio Tower on the South Buttress of Denali, renaming it Mascioli’s Pillar in honor of their friend, Steve M...
Yerupajá Sur, West Face Attempt, Tsacra Chico and Other Peaks. The Stuttgart Section of the DAV Expedition had as members Ernst Schillingen Gerhard Esche, Joachim Köninger, Rainier Schlump, E. Strobel and me as leader. We climbed in June above the...
Warbonnet Peak. In June Charlie Fowler and I made two free climbs in the Wind Rivers that equal and surpass the free routes on the Diamond of Longs Peak in length, difficulty and beauty. Both routes were on Warbonnet Peak. Feather Buttress follows...
Mt. Skene, 10,100 ft. First ascent, July 7. A. Megrew, D. Duncan, E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann. From Freshfield glacier by way of broad couloir between Mt. Skene and Strahan. Thence ascend snow slopes. Ascent from camp, 4 hours, 30 m...
Mount Thor, West Face, Rappels and Prusiking. During July eighteen American and Canadian men and women tackled the wilds of Auyuittuq National Park with its variable weather, rugged glacially carved terrain and continuous daylight. We successfully...
Washington, Cascades, Bill’s Peak—On December 3, a party consisting of Bill Prater (34), Gene Prater (31), Gay Ingalson (21), and Fred Durham (18) were making a winter ascent of Bill’s Peak in the Mt. Stuart region of the Cascades. Bill and Gene a...
Pico Colón, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. After a seven-day approach march up the Donachuí valley and a bivouac, on February 22 four Peace Corps Volunteers, Paul Feyling, Jerry Vonnahme, Ed Lightfoot and Charles Kaska, and Dana Hathaway reached th...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The Cascade Section held two dinner meetings and two evening meetings in 1962. An average of 65 members attended each of the meetings. Those who were present for these meetings were entertained by slides and lectures on th...
FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinleyA three-member party from Seattle, Washington, flew to the Kahiltna Glacier on May 23, 1981, to climb the West Rib of Mount McKinley. On June 5 they moved to their high camp at 16,500 feet. At 8:00 a.m. on the 7th, t...
Twin Sisters, Northwest Face of South Twin. On June 13, Reed Tindall and I completed a new route on the northwest face of this 6932-foot peak, highest point in the Twin Sisters Range, located 10 miles southwest of Mount Baker. The 900-foot face wa...
British Columbia, Coast Range, North Peak, Golden Ears. On 23 February Fred Douglas (19) was one of a party of three making a ski- mountaineering ascent of the Golden Ears Peak. At 4,500 feet, the party removed skis for a rest. In the flat light D...
AVALANCHE, ICE ANCHOR FAILURE—FALL ON ICEBaffin Island, Auyuittuq National Park, Mount BreidablikOn July 8, after reaching the summit of Mount Breidablik, a group of 14 began descending their route of ascent. They had climbed the prominent glacier...
Ganesh Himal V. The joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition, of which I was leader, made the first ascent of Ganesh Himal V. The approach march from Kathmandu to Base Camp at 12,450 feet in the Chilime Khola took from March 7 to 20. The route ascended ...
Castle Rock Spire, West Face. Fred Beckey, Mort Hempel, Ben Borson, and I feared the rugged nine-hour approach to Castle Rock Spire deserved a higher rating than the beautiful plumb-like crack system we had spotted from the roadhead. Our fears wer...
The Bishoprics, first ascent. Over three days in April, without sleeping bags or a water filter-pump, David Everett and I did the first ascent of the Bishoprics, as labeled on the Zion National Park topographic map.The Bishoprics are a group of fo...