Kara Kunlun, Dolkun Muztag (6,355m), first ascent. The student mountaineering party of Tokai University Alpine Club was the first to climb an unexplored peak (6,355m) in the Kara Kunlun mountains at the westernmost end of the Xinjiang Kunlun in Ch...
Lhotse south face, winter ascent (not to summit). On December 27, our six-member expedition from the Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club finally climbed the south face of Lhotse (8,516m), though the successful party was not able to continue ...
LIONEL TERRAY 1921-1965Most of his public life is so well known through his book "The Conquerors of the Useless” that it would be pointless to repeat it here. Lionel was, to those who knew him well, a very vulnerable man in that he was, contrary t...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall-East Rib. On March 17 through March 22 Craig Eilers, Dale Farnham, Matt Christensen and I successfully completed a winter ascent of Mount Rainier’s famed Willis Wall, via the east rib. A bivouac was made two-thirds of th...
Alan Nelson 1959-2007On December 23, 2007 the climbing community lost one of its most dedicated, prolific, and energetic members. After a hard-fought and stunningly brief struggle, Alan Nelson succumbed to a gastrointestinal cancer. His sister Kat...
Death Canyon, Chimney of Death. Mike Yokell and Andy Cox on July 22 climbed this large chimney on the first major buttress east of the Sentinel Turret. It may be identified as directly above the first large boulderfield past the fourth switchback ...
Huandoy Group and Chopicalqui. Our expedition was rather unusual since it was composed of my brothers José Ignacio and Rafael, my sister Juana Mary Ariz de Arteta and me with our spouses, Loli Garro, Mertxe Lizaso, José Arteta and Pili Ganuza resp...
The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain environments. The AAC awards more than $80,000 annually, although the size and number of awards va...
New Climbs in the Bailey Range. Two parties climbed in this seldom visited range in 1961, and though records are incomplete the following climbs appear to be first ascents:Mount Childs (6205 feet) is located a mile north-northeast of Bear Pass. Th...
A New Route on the North Face of Mount TempleHENRY L. ABRONSEVER since the Sourdoughs lugged afourteen-foot pole from Fairbanks to the North Peak of McKinley, climbers have adopted the custom of beginning their adventures in barrooms. Out of respe...
Ghost RidersJack Lewis, UnaffiliatedTOM BAUMAN AND I WOVE through the high desert shrubbery with pointed caution, making our way back down into Black Velvet Canyon. Occasionally the distant glitzy city of Lost Wages would catch our eye and interru...
Polly Prescott 1902-2003Polly Prescott’s climbing career began in 1922 when she climbed Mt. Rainier as the climax of a Vassar College geology field trip. Her love of the mountains continued all her life. She spent over 40 seasons climbing and hiki...
Lightning StrikeThe first ascent of the north face of Arwa Tower in India.Stephan SiegristMick Fowler and Steve Sustad were the first foreign mountaineers to see Arwa Tower, hidden between two lines of ridges above the remote Arwa Valley, in a res...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. The Section was active in many mountain-related activities this fall. The Friends of Silcox Hut have been negotiating with the Timberline Lodge to obtain better access for individuals climbing Mount Hood. Neil Cramer, Steve...
Mount Fairweather ConqueredAS we go to press, comes the splendid news of the first ascent of Mount Fairweather (15,399 ft.) by the American Alpine Club expedition on June 8, 1931, two months after reaching Lituya Bay (which is within twenty miles...
Capitol Peak, Elk Range. On July 21 David Michael, Michael Cohen and I climbed a pleasant route on the northwest face and north-northwest ridge of Capitol Peak (14,100 feet), about 1800 feet of sustained but mostly not difficult climbing on genera...
Cordillera Carabaya. The Kempten, Allgäu Expedition was composed of Dr. Fritz März, leader, Adolf Kling, Wolfgang Reichhardt and me. We explored in the Cordillera Carabaya, although it is difficult to know where that Cordillera and the Cordillera ...
The North Face of Mount KitchenerCHRISTOPHER A. G. JONES“IT looks bad … it’s a steep mother”. “Yeah, you won’t catch this baby up there”.Chouinard, Faint and I scratched ourselves, shook our heads knowingly, got back in the old Chevy and headed up...
SLIP ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, UNROPED, POOR POSITION, INSTRUCTOR NOT FAMILIAR WITH ROUTEWashington, North Cascades, Saska PeakWhile participating in a climb of Saska Peak on Day 17 of a Pacific Crest Outward Bound sea/mountain course, a fema...
As the first crimson rays of dawn crept under a thin veneer of clouds marking the next oncoming front, Jim Bridwell and I hesitantly plowed through hip-deep snow up the glacier towards our 1500-feet of fixed rope. Small powder avalanches turned ...