FALLING ICE – GAVE WAY, FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDUtah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Great White IcicleOn December 31, Gene Rawson (37), a solo ice climber, was near the top of the final pitch of the Great White Icicle. Rawson was waiting for anot...
The Prow, Steamboat Rocks. Steamboat Rocks are a large group of quartzite buttresses, ten miles from Kingston on the Coeur d’Alene River. At least six of them are over 500 feet high. The south-facing apron of the first buttress provided possibly t...
Various Ascents in the Waddington Range. May can be pretty fine in the Coast Mountains, but it can also be pretty darn bad. Last May was the finest ever, and an unusually large number of climbing parties happened to be on hand to enjoy the fruits....
FALL ON ROCKNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, RecompenseOn June 18, Mark Gallagher (48) was climbing Recompense when he fell, hit a ledge, and suffered a compound fracture of his lower left leg. Gallagher said he had climbed Recompense several times...
Langar, 1974. In A.A.J., 1975 on page 216 we reported that Italians had climbed Langar but details were lacking. On August 5, 1974 Sergio De Infanti, Mario Qualizza and Aldo Scalettaris reached the summit of Wala Peak 193, which lies just north of...
Hindu Kush. A small German expedition, led by Harald Biller and composed of his wife Alma, Theo Stöckinger and Hans Vogel, traveled by road from Europe to the Panshir valley in the Hindu Kush, north of Kabul. Continuing from the end of the road on...
Mount Booker, Northeast Face. Unless you have climbed in Washington’s Cascade Pass area you have undoubtedly never heard of Mount Booker as it is greatly overshadowed in height by its neighboring peaks and the only routes on it had previously been...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite Valley National Park, Fairview DomeOn August 20, 1994, at 2100, climber Ray Pichette reported to Tuolumne Meadows rangers that he had passed a slow party of two o...
Glacier Point Apron, Hoser’s Highway. Eric Sanford, Greg Davis, Scott Woodruff and I on April 20 put up a new route on Glacier Point Apron, starting between Patio and Goodrich Pinnacle. We followed the obvious water groove to the Oasis. Ten pitche...
Kinnaur, Naufragi. From August 15 to September 8 I soloed a big wall south of the Kinnaur-Kailash Range. The wall lies roughly northeast of Sangla in the Baspa Valley, on the southern flanks of Raldang (5,499m). Before I left for India, the only i...
Washington, Cashmere Crags—On May 31, Ray Riggs (52) a member of the Mountaineers and a veteran climber slipped and fell to his death while descending the steep rocky cliffs above Nada Lake in the Cashmere Crags. He was a member of a six man party...
Sarapo. The Japanese Yamanoko (Children of the Mountains) Alpine Club expedition made the second ascent of Sarapo (20,155 feet) on July 6. (First ascent by Austrians Bachmann and Lugmayer in 1954.) Takayuki Musha and Hiroshi Nakatsubo made the asc...
Everest Ascent and Tragedy. There is no restriction on the numbers of members an expedition may have on the Tibetan side of Everest. A commercial British party organized by Out There Trekking led by Jonathan Tinker consisted of 19 climbing members...
Talkeetna Range. The year’s noteworthy climbs in this accessible range began on March 3 when my wife Grace and I with Dub Bludworth made the first ascent of Eska Mountain (5680 feet) by its southwest ridge. On July 6 Bob Spurr did better than on t...
Mount Everest, Pre-monsoon. No clients and just one Sherpa summitted from the two commercial expeditions on the Nepalese side. The only other team from Nepal saw two members and three Sherpas summit. Kami Rita Sherpa plunged to his death while cli...
Mazamas. In 1951 the Mazamas, of Portland, held their annual outing from July 22nd to August 5th at Horseshoe Lake in the Wallowa Mountains of northeastern Oregon. This wilderness area had been the site of three previous Mazama outings (1918, 1931...
Center Route on Absolutely Free Pinnacle: Shark’s Back. On August 7, Mark Klemens, Sheldon Smith, and I put up this route located on the Lower Brother. The climbing was marked by a little of everything, but mainly some very hard jam-cracks. A few ...
Spire Point, Northwest Face. On July 29 Gary Brill, my brother Carl and I climbed this face. An approach was made from a camp on Itswoot Ridge via a prominent col west of the Spire Point massif. Begin by taking a line up the middle of the northwes...
Block Tower, Trout Fishing in America. Guy Edwards and I spent seven days in early September in the remote and practically untouched Leaning Tower group, west of the town of Kimberly and south of the popular Bugaboos. Our first day was spent recon...
Tirich Mir East. In 1950 Arne Naess headed an expedition which climbed to the highest summit of Tirich Mir (25,263 feet). This year he returned with his fellow Norwegians, Dr. Kjell Friis-Baastad, Ralph Höibakk, Anders Opdal and Per Vigerust. The ...