Mount Logan Research. A glaciological expedition led by me spent 42 days, from June 1 to July 13, on Mount Logan, carrying out a snow-pit sampling traverse and resurveying the snow saddle (5320 meters) between Russell Peak and Prospectors’ Peak (5...
Brazil, new routes. Of the new routes added in Brazil in 2008, some of the most impressive were Raja Begun, South Face of Pedra do Fritz, and Sensação de Êxtase.The huge slab of Raja Begun (640m, 5.12a R) follows a line of good holds mixed with fr...
INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCE, DARKNESS, EXPOSURENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Damnation GullyOn a Tuesday morning in January, two ice climbers from Connecticut, Damian McDonald and Susanna Saarkangas (ages unknown), were resc...
La Esfinge, Variante Checa. In June we had the opportunity to attempt to open a big-wall variation on La Esfinge (5,350m). David Font, from Cataluña, Spain, a Mexican friend Emiliano Villanueva, one porter, and I joined as a team. We climbed the f...
California: (5) Donner Summit, Mt. Lincoln (8,700 ft•)On 25 August 1950 Mrs. Eleanor Fischer suffered a broken back in a mountain climbing accident near Sugar Bowl. She was paralyzed from the waist down in a fall suffered on the south face of this...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA-CAN.InjuredUSA-CAN.KilledUSA-CAN.195114211031952293217131953242714121954324231819553439266195646715113195745532818195832382211195942 — 256 — 228 — 019 — 2196047 — 463 — ...
Gasherbrum II. Four of our eight members reached the summit of Gasherbrum II. On July 16 François Germain, who is Swiss but has lived for four years in Sweden, got to the top with the Japanese Tomaji Kato. Kato’s companions, Takashi Takahashi and ...
Aconcagua, 2004-2005 season overview. From December 15, 2004 to March 15, 2005 there were 6,490 visitors, less than the preceding year. There were fewer trekkers, but more climbers and more ascents. There was also less snow and serious concern reg...
Mount Helen, Northwest Ridge of the First Tower. On August 29 Dennis Turville, Lynn Wheeler and I started up two pitches of unnecessary climbing to gain the ridge, which we could have reached more easily via the gully between the first and second ...
Convent, Castle Valley, 1992. Rob Slater and Jim Bodenhamer climbed the Junior Buttress (IV, 5.10, A2) in 1992, following the south skyline of the Convent, which involved much run-out face climbing.Cameron Burns
Big Bluff. Probably no one who has camped at the Platforms in Garnet Canyon has given any thought to climbing the overhanging cliff directly above, that is until Royal Robbins and Joe Fitschen climbed it on August 12. This may represent the climax...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleIn July, 1990, Martin (20) was scrambling unroped on slabs several hundred meters above the practice area on the east face of Mount Rundle when he fell, apparently at least 50 meters. His ...
Traverse from Dassu to Pasu and P 5979. In July, Phil Bartlett, Duncan Tunstall and I spent four weeks walking from Dassu to Pasu, a journey of over 200 kilometers. We used porters to Base Camp at the head of the Biafo Glacier. A break in generall...
Manaslu. The Esprit d’Equipe expedition led by Benoît Chamoux hoped to carry out its program by climbing a new route on the south face of Manaslu. After an eight-day approach, we established temporary Base Camp on April 5 at the end of Thulagi Lak...
Alpamayo and Neighboring Peaks. Mike Yokell, Matt Wells, Dan Manning, Steve Kentz, Carol Harden, Sue Giller, Jane Bunin and I established Base Camp at 15,000 feet at Pucacocha, northeast of Alpamayo. We made alpine-style ascents, using no fixed ro...
ELEANOR BARTLETT1897-1983Eleanor Bartlett, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1928, died in Greenbrae, California, August 10. She graduated from Wellesley College. An ardent mountain lover and climber, she came to the University of Califor...
Annapurna. The postmonsoon Japanese expedition of the Unversity of Kyoto is reported to have failed.
Dhaulagiri. On May 14, a nine-member Danish team managed to place their leader Søren Smid on the summit of Dhaulagiri by the standard northeast ridge route. He became the first Dane to climb an 8000er. He climbed solo from their Camp II at 7200 me...
Latok V (6,190m), attempt. Motomu Omiya with two other companions made his fourth attempt on this unclimbed 6,190m summit, which stands at the end of the southeast ridge of Latok III. Omiya, who made the first ascent of Latok IV in 1980, attempted...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTUtah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Mr. SandmanA rock climber suffered serious injuries when he fell in Big Cottonwood Canyon on August 4. The 29-year-old man was backing off a route called Mr. Sandman in the Stairs Gul...