These days I’m interested in making single push, alpine mixed climbs without using aid or fixed rope. Last winter Gennadiy Kabalin, Boris Tretjakov, and I had an unforgettable adventure in Ala Archa, one of my favorite places for winter climbing. ...
Mount Constance, Northeast Face. In September, Richard Hebble, Jim Richardson and I wandered in over the ancient terminal moraines of the Constance valley and excavated a camp from the detritus left by a now extinct glacier near the valley’s head....
Führer Fest, Zermatt, Switzerland, 1952. Because of the unprecedented cold and stormy weather in the Swiss Alps, last fall, I had finally resigned myself to the thought of leaving Zermatt on Sunday September 28th. The most recent storm had left a ...
MRS. JOSEPHINE DIEBITSCH PEARY1863-1955Mrs. Robert E. Peary, who died December 19 at the age of 92, was the last remaining original member of the American Alpine Club. Her passing reminds us of the dual interests that led to the formation of the C...
Annapurna IV. To celebrate the 75th anniversary of the Oberland Section of the German Alpine Club, Ulrich Kamm, Dr. Peter Weiden- thaler, Ulrich Eberhardt, Heinrich Gentner, Georg Gruber, Heinz Hüttl, Franz Leutgäb and I as leader undertook to cli...
Mount Everest, Nepal Pre-Monsoon Summary. 6 Nepalese led by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, Summit reached on April 22 by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa and Sherpas Sonam Tshering, Dawa Tashi, Lhakpa Nuru, Pemba Nuru, Nawang Thile. Pasang Lhamu and Sonam Tshe...
Northwest climbers have a backyard of rugged, imposing mountains, ranging from extinct volcanos, Rainier and Baker, to the great rock monoliths of Mount Index, Mount Baring, and the Pickets. Half a mile north of the international border, in the Ch...
AAC, Central Rockies Section. This has been a progressive and prosperous year for the Central Rockies Section. The 1997 Section Banquet got our Section going financially and helped carry us into the new year. The Section also had several events to...
A Note on Climbing in New Mexico[The following note was communicated to the writer by Kenneth Segerstrom of the United States Geological Survey.]“The highest New Mexican range offers no rock climbing to speak of. The Sangre de Cristos lose their r...
BRADLEY BALDWIN GILMAN 1904–1987Bradley Gilman, a long-time member of the Club’s hierarchy, served it as councilor, secretary, treasurer and president over a period of four decades. He was descended from two primeval New England families, the Gilm...
HAR Pinnacle, Corn Beef Chili Pasta à la Wahab; Pt. 5,500m, G-Strings and Plastic Boots, not to summit; Latok I, north face and north ridge, attempts; Sus Galinas. On August 12 Louis- Philippe Menard and I set up base camp on the Choktoi Glacier, ...
INADEQUATE ANCHOR, FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, FATIGUE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESIdaho, City of RocksOn March 25, 1992, Dan Maynes (24) and I (23) were climbing at City of Rocks National Reserve in Southern Idaho. We had both just graduated in Mechanica...
The Mazamas. Through its Climbing Committee, chaired by Don Erickson, The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, offers comprehensive mountaineering education from beginning through advanced levels; organizes summer, winter, and rock-climbing schedules; sel...
American Entries in the Travellers’ Book of the Grands Mulets, 1861-75J. Monroe ThoringtonIN 1943 the American Alpine Club published the writer’s Early American Ascents in the Alps, which recorded many ascents of Mont Blanc in the 19th century. Th...
Puncak Jaya, new route and first snowboard descent; Carstensz Pyramid, new route. On April 23, Corey Rich, Rob Milne, and I climbed Puncak Jaya by a new and interesting glacier route. Then I made the first snowboard descent of that peak, riding do...
McKinley’s South Face- Alpine StyleAlex BertulisTHE drawback of climbing most major high-altitude mountains is that they require siege tactics. Ropes are fixed and camp gear is hauled along. More food is required because more time is spent ferryin...
ALEXANDER ADDISON McCOUBREY1885-1942Such a fine notice has appeared on the life of our late member, A. A. McCoubrey, in the Canadian Alpine Journal that it seems best now only to supplement what has already appeared there.Mac had been a member of ...
EXPOSURE, BAD WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, DARKNESS, INEXPERIENCE—California, Yosemite Valley. The following report was given by Larry Day (26) and Donald Evans (23) following their rescue, during which Jack Dorn (30)—a member of the Yosemite Re...
Domes at Courtright Reservoir. During the spring of 1978 I made my first visit to the Courtright Reservoir area on the west side of the Sierra Nevada. One needs the help of someone who has spent hours driving the tiny, winding roads that guard it....
Long’s Peak, The Diamond, Smash the State. Between May 15-20, Ken Sauls and I made the second ascent of Smash the State (VI- 5.8 A5) on the Diamond of Long’s Peak. Jim Beyer made the first ascent of this route in April of 1988, solo. Doug Hall and...