Looking through descriptions of routes on Khan Tengri, we two were surprised to find that the southeast ridge, the longest of the four ridges of this fine pyramid, was still unclimbed. Had no one tried this logical, alluring line? The ridge had...
In the Footsteps of VikingsExploratory climbing in southeast GreenlandMark RicheySometimes, the best adventures in climbing begin with the least amount of planning. Such was the case with our trip to Greenland. Our plan was simple: a small group o...
Living on the Edge. Cherie Bremer-Kamp. Peregrine Smith Books, Layton, Utah, 1987. 213 pages, 33 color photos, 6 maps and diagrams. $19.95.There are risks in writing about climbing that mirror the risks of the sport itself. The intensely personal ...
A Ribbon on Edge — Deborah’s East RidgeRoger Mear, Alpine Climbing GroupTHERE ARE TWO mountains in Alaska that have always seemed to me like sisters—Huntington and Deborah. A cold flame, bright and sharp, Huntington has been described as ‘Alaska’s...
Kun. Ten members of a French commercial group led by guides J. Dubrus- son, F. Eynac and D. Petraud climbed Kun (7087 meters, 23,285 feet) by its east ridge. Thirteen Spaniards, led by Karmel Leizaola, arrived at Base Camp on August 11. Eleven of ...
ANDRÉ COURN AND, M. D.1895-1988André Coumand, M.D. died on February 19, 1988 at the age of 92. André had a long and distinguished career as a medical scientist, physician and as a humanist with broad interests in art, music and philosophy. He was ...
Peak 5,750m, the Outside Penguin; Latok II attempts. Backed by the AAC’s Lyman Spitzer Award and Mountain Equipment Co-op, our team had chosen as an objective the unclimbed feature under and southwest of Latok II (7,103m). We facetiously named thi...
The Golden Fleece, First Ascent. The Golden Fleece, otherwise known as Birdman Falls, is a formation of ice that has attracted lots of attention from the minuscule number of people who have had the luxury of seeing it. Tucked into a tight little d...
Washington, Mt. Rainier—On November 30, Lowell Linn (23) hiked on snowshoes with his companion, Harry Holcomb (26), above Paradise on the south side of Mt. Rainier. The two left Paradise, 5,500 feet, at 7:30 A.M. and reached a point a little above...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, POOR POSITIONColorado, San Juans, Engineer MountainOn April 2, David Ganley (32), Fred Hutt (24), and Mike Seeberg (30) left Coal Bank Pass parking lot at 0700 on snowshoes to climb Engineer Mountain via the North Ridge. They lef...
Changuch (6,322m), northwest ridge from south. Before 2009 Changuch was attempted unsuccessfully three times from the south, via the Pindari Glacier. In that year Martin Moran’s British expedition approached from the Lawan Valley to the north and ...
EXPOSURE, FATIGUE, FROSTBITEAlaska, Mt. McKinleyOn a winter ascent of the Muldrow Glacier route, Fred Barstad (29) had frostbitten his toes about 16,000 feet at the end of a hard day while building a snow cave. The team was using double boots with...
Huandoy Sur, Northeast Face, 1979. A very direct route on this face was done solo by the Frenchman Yves Astier in 1979.
Torre del Norte, Giorgio Giannaccini. We left Italy on January 8 and arrived in Campamento Torres on January 14. On January 21, after two carries to high camp, we started to climb, but high stratified clouds, cold and taut wind blocked our progres...
Pumori, Winter Ascent, 1982. Early in December our small party arrived at the Pumori Base Camp to attempt the first winter ascent of this, one of the world’s most beautiful mountains. The four of us, Ned Gillette, Jan Reynolds, Steve McKinney and ...
Canterbury region, summary. Showing that there are still plenty of new things to do in the Southern Alps, if you are motivated, Guy McKinnon ventured alone onto the northwest face of Malcolm Peak (2,512m) to make the first ascent of this 500m grey...
Taulliraju, Entire Southeast Ridge. Mark Miller and I made three unsuccessful attempts on the south face of Taulliraju in late May and early June which ended in bad weather. We decided to try the entire southeast ridge instead. On June 7 we approa...
Tetons. Most of the ambitious activity in the Tetons during the past summer was centered on the classic routes rather than in searching for new routes. For instance, both the north face of the Grand Teton and the south ridge of Mount Moran were as...
Pico Bolívar, First All Women Ascent. An all-women local team attempted to climb the highest mountain in Venezuela but failed the first time due to unseasonal weather. The second attempt was successful and took place on April 27 at the end of the ...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF “FRIEND”New York, ShawangunksA man (24) was seconding on Never Never Land (5.10) when he fell and fractured his fibula. The ten-meter fall resulted from the fact that a Friend placed directionally pulled out. (Source: Brad...