FALL ON ROCK-OFF ROUTE, DARKNESSColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Anthill DirectOn October 21, Angus McInnes (39) and his companion, a young Russian man (17) who had emigrated with his family to the U.S. four months earlier, were climbing Anthill Direct ...
HAROLD WILLIAM TILMAN 1898-1978More than most men, Bill Tilman led several carefully compartmented lives and few were fortunate enough to know even one of them well. Tilman the soldier was commissioned early in World War I at the age of seventeen ...
The biggest news in Patagonia this season was not related to an ascent but to an attempt. David Lama’s attempt to free the Compressor Route was well-publicized, but in spite of his spending close to three months in El Chalten, nothing came of it...
WEATHER, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, HYPOTHERMIA Nevada, Great Basin National ParkOn July 20, 1987, Nelson Keyes, age 58, set out to ascend Wheeler Peak (3982 meters). During the descent, Keyes became disoriented in a severe storm and lost the...
FALLING ROCK–FOOTHOLD CAME OFFNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Moby GrapeOn September 2, my climbing partner Jon Sykes and I had gotten an alpine start to climb on Cannon Cliff hoping to beat the weather coming in with hurricane Ernesto. I was aid-cli...
Oregon: (3) Cascades. .On 1 July 1951 a party of the Obsidians, Inc. of Eugene, Oregon, climbed Mt. Jefferson (10,500 feet). During a rest stop in the ascent, Clarence Bankhead wandered away from the party to the edge of an ice field, where he los...
Mount Steele, North and South Gemini Peaks, Crag Mountain, P 10,478, Mount Sulzer, P 11,000, P 10,400, P 8590, P 8335 and Traverse from Kluane Lake, Yukon Territory to Chitistone River, Alaska. Betty Fletcher, Markus Kellerhals, Peter Stone and I ...
1951–69 U.S.A.1959–69 CAN.U.S.A.1970 CANTerrainRock 777591273Snow 44655354River 3010Unknown1200Ascent or DescentAscent 60062705Descent 56450702Unknown634230Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock43735541Failure of piton27161Falling rock or object12215...
FROSTBITE, DEHYDRATION, AMS, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 3, 1989, the Seoul National University Alpine Association expedition, a party of five Korean climbers, flew to Kahiltna base camp to begin a climb of the Cassin Ridge on Mount McKin...
ARNOLD WEXLER1918-1997Arnold Wexler died in his sleep Sunday evening, November 16, of brain cancer. He was 79.Arnold lived in a rarefied atmosphere—that of the research engineer at the National Institute of Standards and Technology and of the moun...
LOST IN THE DARKCalifornia, Yosemite, Half DomeIn late September, Aloysius “Apple” Leap (25) and I (Chris Tomasetti, 23) made our first trip to Yosemite for a week and a half of climbing. We’d been climbing pretty intensively for 3-4 years at a go...
Broad Peak and K2. This expedition was a semi-commercial undertaking. Most of its members had little more in common than the DM 12,000 (about $6300) each had to pay into the expedition treasury. From West Germany came the leader, Dr. Karl Maria He...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. During the year there was a great increase in climbing, much of it outside the Mountaineering Section, both at local areas and at Seneca Rocks, West Virginia. This increase has raised questions of overcrowding (espe...
Cerro Balmaceda, first winter ascent. Cerro Balmaceda (2,260m) is located at the southern end of the Continental Icecap, some 40km south of the Paine Massif. Being surrounded by lakes and major rivers, it is difficult to reach. Since its first asc...
Alpamayo Norte. Mel and Becci Knapp, Roy and Joan Fray, Brock Wagstaff, Karl Gerdes and I arrived at the Pucacocha hut around June 1.The place was an incredible mess. The debris yielded rusty carabiners, cigarette cartons, Courvoisier bottles: cli...
HACE, WEATHERCalifornia, Mount Shasta WildernessTwo experienced 26-year-old climbers (Mr. Thomas and Mr. Tom Bennett) were spending the weekend on the north side of Mount Shasta (very rarely used at this time of the year due to snow covered road a...
JAMES GRAFTON ROGERS 1883–1971The death of James Grafton Rogers on April 23, 1971 marked the close of perhaps the most varied career of any native of Colorado, a career which extended its influence, however, far beyond the limits of that state — n...
Southwestern Pamir, Pik Tb GU (6,142m), northwest flank and north ridge; Pik Engels (6,510m), northeast face and north ridge, attempt. Peter Poljanic and I arrived in Dushanbe on July 30, with the aim of climbing Pik Karl Marx (6,723m) and/or Pik ...
Courthouse Pasture. Jason Keith and Hollis McCord climbed to the summit of the Merrimac Butte by a new route up the east face (5.10 A1).
Trango Tower (6,251m), alpine style ascent of Eternal Flame (though not to summit). In early July Eternal Flame also received a very spirited attempt to free climb it by the French couple, Antoine and Sandrine de Choudens. This pair wanted to clim...