Run For Cover—Trango AdventureGreg ChildTrango TOWER, OR NAMELESS Tower as it is also called, is a strangely symmetrical 20,470-foot granite shaft of the Baltoro Mustagh. I first read about it in 1976 when Mountain published Martin Boysen’s accoun...
Johannesburg Mountain, The CK Route. On August 27, we climbed a new direct line on the 4,600' north face. In 2002 we had retreated after underestimating steep, unprotectable rock sections.The route begins in a vertical cleft with a waterfall, midw...
PULMONARY EDEMA, CEREBRAL EDEMA, SLIP ON SNOW,DESCENDING UNROPEDAlaska, Mount ForakerGlen Randall (26) and Pete Metcalf flew into Kantishna on April 17, 1983, to begin their approach to the North Face of Mount Foraker. Their intended route would t...
Northern Staunings Alps. Our expedition was not a mountaineering one. It comprised twelve members and four research groups, two of geology, one of zoology and one of botany, each led by a lecturer from Leicester, Cambridge, Oxford and Cardiff univ...
Twilight Pillar, Clyde Peak, Winter Ascent. In February, David Wilson and I made the first winter ascent of this classic Grade III summer route. A 5.7 pitch directly off the snowfield provided us with the hardest climbing, since it was diagonal an...
California Mount St. Elias Expedition. Arriving at Kluane Lake on June 9, Bill Feldmann, David Gladstone, Richard May, Charles Ringrose, Timothy Tracey and I had by June 13 been landed by ski-wheel plane at a Base Camp at the junction of the Jeann...
Manaslu, East Ridge Attempt. Our Argentine expedition was composed of Guillermo Vieiro, leader, Dr. Ernesto Fiorentini, Jorge Jassen, Hector Cuiñas, Edgardo Porcellana, Gerardo Maioli, Marcelo Aguilas, Pablo Castiarena, Avo Nakachian, Ulises Vital...
The Mountain World 1966/67, edited by Malcolm Barnes and Hans Richard Müller with translations by Hugh Merrick, for The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. London: George Allen and Unwin Ltd; Chicago: Rand McNally and Co. 224 pages, 56 plates, m...
Arrigetch Peaks, Brooks Range, Alaska — A group of ten from Hampshire College spent three weeks from June 9 through July 1 in the cirque where the 1964 party made its Base Camp, the first valley south of Arrigetch Creek. Besides the climb of Shot ...
Dharamsura, 1979. A Japanese expedition from Toyota climbed Dharamsura (22,205 feet, 6446 meters) from the Bara Shigri Glacier. All members reached the summit on September 10, 1979. They were Kazunori Tanaka, leader, Osamu Kamigori, Teruyoshi Yama...
HARRISON WOOD1914-1938Harrison Wood died on September 1, 1938, after a short illness in Berne, Switzerland. From the balcony outside his room he could look up the Aar Valley, fair and green, to the tremendous throne of the Bernese Oberland. Before...
Climbing in Cyberspace: An OverviewInternet, surfing, URLs, home pages, World Wide Web, Netscape. Just a couple of years ago hardly anyone would have recognized a single one of these terms. Now they’re household concepts. Use and awareness of the ...
South Howser Tower, Soul Cinders; East Pigeon Feather Peak, Ride the Snafflehound; other activity. During an amazing high pressure system from August 25 to September 4, Renan Ozturk and I climbed two new routes in the Bugaboos. Camped below South ...
1951–19992000GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta41612092015622British Columbia271105604418Yukon Territory332673000Ontario35964101Quebec27758305East Arctic7220...
Illimani. Gustavo Iturralde, Moises Unzaga, José de Henestrosa and I joined to make an ascent of the normal route on the south peak of Illimani. On June 20, after five hours of driving on the Mina la Urania road, we reached the shoulder from which...
Axel Heiberg Island, ski traverse and first ascents. Over six weeks, from April 19 to May 31, our team made an unsupported north-to-south traverse of the island. The team consisted of Louise Jarry (Canada), Vicky Lytle (USA/Australia), Sarah Boyle...
Shaksgam ExplorationTilman’s Loop and Gasherbrum Glacier to K2 GlacierKurt Diemberger"THE NEXT MORNING TILMAN arrived. He had managed to reach the Staircase Glacier and to follow it down. In the bad weather, he had seen very little, but it was an ...
Solo Nanga Parbat, by Reinhold Messner. New York: Oxford University Press, 1980. 145 illus. including 46 color photographs. Price $19.95.This is Reinhold Messner’s most emotional work. He writes of this remarkable mountaineering achievement as if ...
Biacherahi Tower, Hanispur South and Indian Face Arête, Ascents. The expedition was comprised of Muir Morton (leader), Tom Bridgeland, Sam Chinnery, Alasdair Coull, Neal Crampton, Dave Hollinger, Dan Long and Paul Schweizer. We set up Base Camp in...
Milne Land, first ascent of Orca. Satoshi Kimoto, Taeko and Yasushi Yamanoi made the first ascent of a l,250m-high big wall in northeast Milne Land. It took 17 days during August to complete the 40-pitch route, named Orca, at 5.10+ A2. Yasushi had...