Tza-leh Xueshan, Peak 5,600+m. Juan-Antonio Puyol and I visited Yunnan because it is largely unexplored. The only information we found for our chosen area on the Mekong-Yangtze divide in the Hengduan Range came from a report by Tom Nakamura in AAJ...
Peruvian Ascents. Schoolboys made several first ascents this year. The Director of the Ministry of Education, Juan José Vega, has offered the maximum cooperation, along with the Director of Physical Education, Carlos Rojas, to the development of s...
An Attempt on Bush MountainDyson DuncanFOR several years I have been trying to climb Bush Mountain, so that by this time it has become an intimate and unruly friend. In 1930 we were unable to reach the base of the mountain from the eastern side, a...
AAC, Central Rockies Section. The year began on a high note with the Section providing customized, limited edition embroidered jackets, vests, and hats at the AAC Annual Meeting at Snowbird, Utah. These items are sold in hopes of adding a sense of...
A six-member team from Aoyamagakuin University Alpine Club tried to climb the virgin East Summit of Janak (7,041m) via the route on the right side of the south face, attempted in 2005 by Slovenians Miha Habjan and Andrej Stremfelj. Ages of the mem...
Mount Hubbard. Andy Williams of Alcan Air had said that we should not be distressed to see clear weather at Kluane Lake and still not be able to fly because of bad weather in the mountains proper. His warning kept recurring in our minds as we bask...
Mountaineering Medicine, by Darvill, Fred T., Jr., M.D. Published by Skagit Mountain Rescue Unit, Inc., P. O. Box 2, Mt. Vernon, Washington 98273; 36 pages, price $1.00, weight 1½ oz.In spite of the somewhat expansive title, this booklet is not a ...
GeographicalDistricts1951-19951996Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta338103730British Columbia25197546Yukon Territory332673Ontario31858Quebec25554East Arctic7220West Arctic112Prac...
Cerro Torre’s South FaceSilvo Karo, Domžale Alpine Club, Yugoslavia Translated by Maja KošakONLY NOW, sitting safely at home, 10,000 miles from Patagonia, can I think how crazy it was on January 20 when, in hurricane winds and with rotten ropes, w...
Aoraki Mt. Cook and Westland summary. The Aoraki Mt. Cook and Westland region is a shadow of its former self as far as new climbs are concerned. The region of greatest focus for new routes and first winter ascents is now the névés west of the Main...
Altitude-Rated Places: A Medical Atlas. Blake Moomey. McNaughton and Gunn, New Orleans, 1993. 225 pages, 11 appendices, 20 maps. $16.95.This will be a useful atlas for anyone interested in travel. Not many people have health problems that prevent ...
Mount Stuart, Direct North Buttress. Although the north buttress of Mount Stuart was first climbed in 1956 from an ice couloir extending up from the Stuart Glacier, the lower half of the 2000-foot buttress had never been ascended at all. Not knowi...
FALL ON ROCK AND SNOW, BAD WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE Washington, Mt. St. HelensRick Fredrickson (18) was blown off the top of Dogs Head on Mt. St. Helens between the elevation of 7,300–7,400 feet and fell or slid down the snow all the way to the 6,200...
The South Face of JirishancaDEAN CALDWELLJIRISHANCA didn’t like our coming up today; the storm began about noon. It seems the season is over, but the end of July is too early — we should still be able to plan on a period of good weather for the wa...
STRANDED-EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGNevada, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Juniper CanyonOn April 12, S. L., A. M., G. W. and C. J., all visiting from Canada, set off to climb Black Dagger (III, 5.7) in Juniper Canyon. Th...
Everest, deaths during the spring. “I imagine you guys are surprised to see me here” were Australian Lincoln Hall’s words upon being discovered miraculously alive on the north side of Everest on May 26, after having been reported dead the day befo...
Squamish Chief, Direct West Face. The curiosity of Vancouver climbers about knee-deep tracks in the January snow to the base of the sheer west face of the Squamish Chief turned to amazement when they saw ropes hanging on the lower part of the 1600...
California, Yosemite Park, El Capitan. On May 15 Jim Baldwin (24) and Ed Cooper were in the early stages of the climb of the then-unclimbed direct S.W. face on El Capitan (climb successfully completed in November, 1962). Because of the severity of...
Tullujuto, Tunshu Group, Cordillera Central. After our arrival by truck at Azulcocha up the long road from Pachacayo and Canchayllo on June 30, the next day we set out on a several-pronged reconnaissance. What attracted us most was the highest pai...
East Fuller Butte, Walking with Walt. After three false starts over 18 months, two due to 110°+ summer temperatures and one due to a “10% chance of light, scattered showers” that turned into a blizzard in September 2002, Sigrid and Lynnea Anderson...