Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Blackburn, Wrangell Mountains

Mount Blackburn, Wrangell Mountains. There were two expeditions on Mount Blackburn (16,523 feet). The Mountaineering Association of Daito City was composed of Tadanobu Yokoyama, leader, Toshiyuki Shinto and four others. From Base Camp at 7700 feet...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Peak 11,520', The Flame

Peak 11,520', The Flame. After a brief reconnaissance up the Northwest Fork of the Tokositna and a week of bad weather, on May 6 Seth Hobby and I cast off onto what we believe is a new route on the north face of Peak 11,520', one of two peaks alon...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Himachal Pradesh, Mulkila IV and Koa Rong I, Lahul, 1976

Mulkila IV and Koa Rong I, Lahul, 1979. A (British) Royal Air Force and Indian Air Force expedition led by Wing Commander N.W. Ridley climbed Mulkila IV (21,380 feet, 6517 meters) and Koa Rong I (20,201 feet, 6157 meters) in September 1979. There ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Valhalla Range, Southern Selkirks

Valhalla Range, Southern Selkirks. The Kootenay Mountaineering Club established a climbing camp at Mulvey Meadows (6600 feet) from August 1 to 8. Dunnage, food and prefabricated hut sections were flown in from Slocan by helicopter. We erected the ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park. On 14 June, Jay DuPont (15) was climbing with two companions. He separated himself from the party. He had expressed a desire to slide down a rock face because he felt it would be fun and easier. The face was...


Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite, Dehydration, Damp Mittens, Alaska, Iliamna Volcano

UNITED STATESFROSTBITE, DEHYDRATION, DAMP MITTENSAlaska, Iliamna VolcanoOn February 9,1985, Ken Zafron, George Rooney, Willie Hersman (34), and Rudi Bertschi (38) flew to the Tuxedni Glacier. They hoped to make the first winter ascent of Iliamna V...


Accident Reports ANAM
AMS, Alaska Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

AMSAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn the evening of June 6, the Russian Denali Expedition requested the assistance of the NPS volunteer doctor at the 17,200-foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley because one m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Broad Peak Attempt

Broad Peak Attempt. Our expedition was led by Dr. Franz Berghold and composed of Günther Knauseder, Horst Schindlbacher, Peter and Wastl Wörgötter and me. We had the usual approach problems, such as porter strikes, lost baggage and swept-away brid...


Book Reviews AAJ
Field Book: The Absaroka Range, Yellowstone Park

Field Book: The Absaroka Range, Yellowstone Park by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver: Sage Books, 1963. 302 pages, ills., maps, supplement. Price $2.00.This Field Book employs the same layout found in the Field Book to the Teton Range b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Ladakh-Kashmir, Kun

Kun. Our expedition made the difficult crossing of the Suru river on August 16. Fortunately we had a small pneumatic boat. We climbed the northeast ridge, the normal route. We placed Base Camp at 14,750 feet on the 18th, Camp I at 17,725 feet on t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga, Solo

Kangchenjunga, Solo. I reached the top of Kangchenjunga solo without supplementary oxygen on October 18 after 33 days on the mountain. I shared the route to Camp I at 20,400 feet on the “Hump” with Polish and French expeditions, both climbing Yalu...


Book Reviews AAJ
Montagne di Groenlandia

Montagne di Groenlandia, by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Tamari Editori, 1969. 374 pages, 280 photographs, 39 sketches and maps.Lovers of the Arctic mountain world will be happy to see this volume, the first actual book on the mountains of Greenland. Th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Peaks above Chhutidum Glacier

Peaks above Chhutidum Glacier. Germans from Hannover and Hammeln, Peter Geihs, leader, Detlef and Hartmut Ahlbrecht and Tilman Spohr, ascended the Ushnu valley to the confluence of the Kotgaz and Chhutidum glaciers where Base Camp was established ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Polish-Austrian Everest Attempt

Polish-Austrian Everest Attempt. Poles Tadeusz Karolczak and Aleksander Lwow and Austrian Helmut Putz originally wanted to climb the south pillar of Everest, but the Japanese set unacceptable conditions for making the Khumbu Icefall accessible to ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Cordillera Central

Cordillera Central. The Frenchman D. Eichenbugeno and Manuel Bazán and Raúl Riesco, both from Santiago, entered the Barros Negros group of rock peaks located north of the mining village of Pérez Caldera in December 1971. From a base camp at 11,000...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Rurec, Caravaca Jubilar

Rurec, Caravaca Jubilar. After installing base camp in mid-July 2003 below Rurec (5,080m) and fixing the initial pitches, we began our first capsule-style attempt carrying food, water, and gear for three weeks. The team: Alfonso Cerdan Sandoval, m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Thalay Sagar, High Tension

Thalay Sagar, High Tension. Russian alpinists Alexander Klenov, Alexey Bolotov, Mikhail Davy and Mikhail Pershin established a new route on the north face of Thalay Sagar (6904m). High Tension (ABO, 7b A3+, 1400m) takes a line up the rock buttress...


Club Activities AAJ
Potomac Applachian Trail Club

Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The Mountaineering Section had one of its most active seasons in 1969. We had scheduled climbing trips every weekend throughout the year, and the Memorial Day weekend trip to the Shawangunks saw nearly 50 members ma...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, South Georgia, Three Brothers, First Ascent

Three Brothers, first ascent. Sailing aboard the yacht Pelagic, Alun Hughes, Skip Novak (captain of Pelagic), and I arrived at South Georgia with the aim of making a five-part series on sailing, climbing, and the history of wildlife on the island ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Malubiting

Malubiting. A Japanese expedition from Kyoto was led by Mitsugi Koyama. Their attempt to climb Malubiting (24,451 feet) was given up when on May 24 two Pakistani porters, Hidayat Shah and Arab Khan, were swept by an avalanche for 2000 feet down to...