La Esfinge, Mecho Taq Inti? Our team was two women, Tanja Rojs and Aleksandra Voglar, and I, Andrej Grmovsek, all from Slovenia. After acclimatization on Vallunaraju (5686m) we put up base camp under La Esfinge on July 11. Because of many articles...
French Expedition to Schweizerland, East Greenland. Under the aegis of the Club Alpin Français I organized a second small expedition in August, 1970. Knowing the difficulties of getting into the Atter massif, which we failed to reach in 1969, we c...
In July on Pedra Riscada, near São José do Divino in the state of Minas Gerais, Horacio Gratton (Argentina), Stefan Glowacz, Holger Heuber, and Klaus Fengler (Germany), and I opened Place of Happiness (850m, 5.12d). It is a magic line in an amazin...
FALL ON ROCK, STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES,INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Arizona, Camelback MountainAt 1240 on January 24, 1987, the Phoenix Fire Department was notified that a male (18) had fallen about 60 meters to his death from a route known as Suicid...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Cathedral PeakCathedral Peak South East Buttress is a popular six-pitch moderate alpine climb, with many variations, about 3.5 miles...
YahtséteshaMaynard Malcolm MillerAS far N. as one can go in Southeastern Alaska, before the Pan- handle fades and the International Boundary swings poleward, lies what has been referred to as the greatest ice mountain in all of North America. For ...
This is the twenty-fourth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and the eleventh in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada.Data from accidents not previously reported have been obtained and the statistical tables ha...
Huayna Potosí, North Ridge. At Easter I hiked from the Zongo Pass on the east side of Huayna Potosí along the aqueduct to a small lake below the northeast (see correction below) and north ridges. From here, between snow squalls, I could see that a...
Rooster Comb, HuntingtonNicholas Colton, Alpine ClubWith A HIMALAYAN expedition looming in the fall, we decided we must climb somewhere in the spring. Tim Leach suggested Alaska, not only for the fantastic potential for climbing but also because ...
AAC, Oregon Section. In February, Tom Bennett and I organized the premier Mazama Denali Conference, which featured 26 speakers from all over Alaska and the lower 48 states and included Bradford and Barbara Washburn as our special guests. Jack Grau...
The Andes are Prickly, by Malcolm Slesser. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1966. 254 pages, 31 photographs, 4 maps. Price: 42 s.This book is not solely on mountaineering; rather it describes an expedition, traveling, climbing, mapping and tape recor...
Cerro La Junta, Trinidad, and Roca Grande de la Junta, new routes. I made my first Cochamó expedition, from the DAV and supported by the Section Bayerland, with Stephan Schanderl (30, mountain guide, also from Munich). We spent six weeks between m...
Some Icelandic MountainsKENNETH A. HENDERSONFrom a mountaineering standpoint Iceland has been much neglected. This is a pity, for the scenery abounds in extensive views, the country is interesting and historic, the people pleasant and extremely he...
Gangotri Region. Our four-man team of Dave Cuthbertson, Pat Littlejohn, John Mothersele and me came to attempt the east face of Kedarnath Dome in late September. Unfortunately Cuthbertson developed pneumonia soon after arrival at Base Camp, necess...
Canada: Data and narratives not available from 2010. Visit alpineclubof- canada.ca/services/safety/index.html for information on the Alpine Club of Canada’s safety program.United States: Aside from once again seeing too many belay and rappel error...
Kokanee Glacier ParkEdward L. DennisUNTIL the Spokane Mountaineers of Spokane, Washington, held their 1937 summer outing in Kokanee Glacier Park,1 about 20 miles N. of Nelson, British Columbia, this interesting region had not been visited in more ...
TABLE III1951-03USA1959-03CAN.2004USA2004CAN.TerrainRock41415039618Snow2289341465Ice2311461812River14300Unknown22900Ascent or DescentAscent273555511823Descent21523524010Unknown2471012OtherN.B.6010Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock28872737110Slip ...
Free Korea Peak, first ascents. On January 6-7 I climbed a new route, solo, up the center of the north face of 4750m Free Korea Peak. I spent one night on the face and another at the top. My route was a substantial variant to the 1975 Popenko Rout...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. Late changes and a new set of illustrations delayed publication of our Climbers Guide to Seneca Rocks until 1971. (We had erroneously reported it as completed in last year’s Journal report.) Covering nearly 100 rout...
Everest, from Sea Level to the Summit. My objective was to make the first real ascent of Everest from sea level, alone on the mountain, unassisted and without suplementary oxygen. The first preference for the final route to the summit was by the w...