Everest Attempt and Tragedy. I led an international group of 25 to try the normal route on Mount Everest. Aside from our climbing objectives, we had three physicians who carried out high-altitude medical research. Because the weather was so good a...
Aconcagua. Fine weather permitted us to climb Aconcagua by the regular north-slope route in four days from Base Camp at Plaza de Mulas (14,000 feet). No one suffered from altitude sickness thanks to our program of acclimatization: Day 1: by train ...
Gya, Second Ascent. Gya ( 6794m), at the tri-junction of Himachal, Jammu and Kashmir and Tibet, had received eight expeditions but had no ascents, either due to misidentification or bad weather. The Indian Mountaineering Federation organized its s...
Stanford Alpine Club. The club continues to emphasize technical rock climbing through weekly local practice climbs. On these climbs beginners are taught the fundamental rules of climbing and safety. More experienced members are able to practice sp...
Quitaraju. Our expedition was made up of Bart Sloof, Rudolf Trouw, Bert Maas, Louis Berger, Jan Warnaars and me. From Base Camp in the Quebrada Santa Cruz, we had two objectives: Alpamayo via the north ridge and Quitaraju. We divided into two grou...
FALL ON ROCK, FOOT CAUGHT IN “QUICKDRAW,” INATTENTION New Mexico, Cochita MesaOn December 28, 1989, Cameron Burns (24) fell from the third bolt on Praise the Lunge (5.11b). As he fell, his foot got caught in the “Quickdraw” on the second bolt, cau...
State Highway 313. Sunset Tower up the road from Dead Horse Point and the Island-in-the-Sky district of Canyonland National Park (nine miles north of Moab) was climbed at 5.6, C2 by Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson. The team also established routes...
A.A.C., New York Section. In retrospect 1984 was perhaps the busiest year in the history of the New York Section. Members received invitations to more than a dozen events, ranging from slide shows to climbing outings to barbecues and the tradition...
Nun. A commercial Spanish expedition reached the summit of Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) by the normal route, the northwest ridge. They established Camp I at 5400 meters and then fixed 800 meters of rope between there and Camp II at 6200 meters. ...
Mountain MedicinePerformance-enhancing drugs and climbingGeoff Tabin, MD, and Scott McIntosh, MSIn 1953, Hermann Buhl staggered off the summit of Nanga Parbat in the final stages of exhaustion. He was alone. Darkness was closing in. Clouds swirled...
East Face of Mount HuntingtonRobb Kimbrough, ColoradoEVEN THE BAD WEATHER doesn’t dampen our enthusiasm as John Tuckey and I arrive in Talkeetna on April 13. After all, we are here to make our bid for the big time. Throughout our climbing careers ...
Chacraraju South Face Solo, 1979. The French climber Yves Astier made a new route solo on the south face of Chacraraju on May 24, 1979. The route ascended the couloir to the right of the one ascended in 1977 by John Bouchard and Marie-Odile Meunie...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCE and AVALANCHE (TWO SEPARATE ACCIDENTS)Alberta, Banff National Park, Cascade WaterfallThese two serious accidents are reported together because they happened on the same climb within m...
Japanese Alpinists in the HimalayaI. THE FIRST ASCENT OF CHOGOLISAProf. Takeo KuwabaraThe Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto went on an expedition to Chogolisa (7.654 m.; 25,0 ft.), in the Karakoram, in the summer of 958 and succeeded in the ascent of ...
Chicago Mountaineering Club, 1947. The Needle Mountains of the San Juan Range, in southwestern Colorado, was the location for the 2nd Annual Outing of the Chicago Mountaineering Club, 5-16 August 1947. Thirty-eight members and guests met in Durang...
Static Slab, Mount Stickney Area. On May 18 Dave Johnson, Dave Pickard and I made the first ascent of the Static Slab on Static Peak, some two miles north of Mount Stickney. It is an excellent 800- to 1000-foot quartz diorite buttress with many po...
Charles Snead Houston 1913–2009I have always felt there was a kind of classical Grecian quality about Charlie’s life. This was perhaps best expressed by Charlie’s and my boss, the great Walter Paepcke, founder of the Container Corporation of Ameri...
Some Yosemite Rock-ClimbsWilliam Shand, Jr.ALTHOUGH nearly all the major summits of Yosemite had been ascended prior to 1900, it was not until 1934 that serious modern rock-climbing was undertaken in the valley. Since that time members of the Sier...
Freedom Climbers. Bernadette McDonald. Rocky Mountain Books, 2011. 352 pages. Color photos. Hardcover. $29.95.In Freedom Climbers Bernadette McDonald tells the story of the Golden Age of Polish Himalayan mountaineering, much of it done in winter: ...
Mountaineering Summary and Statistics, 2000. During the 2000 mountaineering season, 172 people comprised 45 separate expeditions within Kluane’s Icefield Ranges. These parties spent a total of 2,790 person-days in the park. In spite of significant...