California, Yosemite Valley. On June 1st Mike Blake (age 19), Bruce Schuler (25), and Brian Watson (21) were climbing the Right Side of La Cosita on El Capitan, a Grade I Class 5.9 route. Watson had climbed the route the previous year and was serv...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR - FAILED TO CLIP INTO ANCHOR California, Joshua Tree National Park, Saddle Rock On April 18, Dave Pinegar had lowered his partner from the route Walk on the Wild Side to the next anchor with his belay device. The pa...
Bhagirathi I, North Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Toshifumi Sakae, Mikiei Otake, Kenichi Saito, Miss Yuki Sato, Miss Noriko Hasegawa and me as leader. We set up Base Camp at Nandanban, Advance Base on the northeast side of Bhagirathi II an...
The Name, “Paine.” The Paine peaks of Patagonia did not receive their name from some wandering Gringo. (The name is pronounced “pine-eh.”) The name originated around 1886 when an Argentine traveler, trekking into southernmost Chile, saw the peak a...
Mount Rainier, North Ridge Routes. By completing the second ascent of the original Ptarmigan Ridge route this summer, Gene Prater, of Ellensburg, has become the only climber to ascend all of the routes bordering and splitting Willis Wall. He repor...
Chimney Rock, South Nose. Northern Idaho’s famed ridgetop landmark, Chimney Rock, yielded its fourth and perhaps most spectacular route on August 11 when Jerry Fuller and I scaled the thin and sometimes overhanging south nose. We used a total of 2...
CB-14 (6,078m), plane wreckage found. An Indian (Bengal) team led by Anal Das climbed this peak on 19th of August. Summit climbers were Swaraj Ghosh, Ajoy Mondai, Subrata Banerjee, Sanjay Ghosh, Moloy Mukherjee, and Arindam Mukherjee with three hi...
Alpine Club of Canada. The year 1974 was one of expansion for ACC activities. The General Mountaineering Camp was held for three weeks at Robson Pass, close to Berg Lake. The 1973 experiment of a training week to begin the camp was highly successf...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The PATC’s Mountaineering Section again had a big year during 1987. Climbing, access, and conservation were the three major activities. Climbing was really good. Over the winter of 1986–87 members climbed in New Eng...
Fraile Oriental and other peaks. In December, 1975 three Ecuadorians made the first ascent of “Fraile Oriental” (c. 17,000 feet), an ice pyramid located on the northeast corner of the crater rim of Altar massif. Climbers were B. Beate, J. Carrasco...
Huascaran Sur, Possible New Route. Beginning from the village of Shilla on June 26, Dujan Debelak and Tomac Cerovnik climbed Huascaran Sur (6768 meters) over a three-day period. They began by ascending a rocky ridge (UIAA IV) to 5200 meters, where...
An Eccentric in the Alps, the Story of the Rev. W. A. B. Coolidge, the great Victorian Mountaineer, by Ronald W. Clark. London: Museum Press, 1959. 217 pages; 23 ills. Price 35s.Hero of many a peak and pass,Not born to die in a crevasse;A scholar,...
Resurrection Wall, Pinnacles National Monument. Ruprecht Kammerlander and Anton Kuruza climbed the impressive Resurrection Wall in Juniper Canyon on Easter Sunday. The rock is a great, shadowy mass a half-mile up the High Peaks Trail. Few Pinnacle...
North Chasm View Wall, Link-up of Stoned Oven and Air Voyage. It was reported that Jeff Hollenbaugh and Mike Pennings linked up Stoned Oven (5.11c) and Air Voyage (5.12a), both on North Chasm View Wall, in a day, freeing everything apart from the ...
Fairchild Mountain, Haunch Bauncho Buttress, East Face. On September 26 and 27, Peter H. Robinson and I completed this 14-lead, 1000-foot climb, which took two days because of a late start. Route finding was interesting and the rock was good. We f...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY Oregon, Cascades of Oregon, Three Fingered JackOn August 5, 1994, three of us (Katie, Lyn, and myself) hiked into Summit Lake off the Pacific Crest Trail to set up camp. On Saturday morning we hiked up to the mountai...
Gauntlet Peak, Baffin Island. In August Ken Hunter, Frank Gordon and I climbed in the Pangnirtung Pass region. Base Camp was established at 500 feet below the west buttress of Gauntlet Peak. Advanced Base was made two days later at 2500 feet in th...
This area is just outside and south of Monument Basin. It is named after Walt Dabney, who began the Canyonland’s “No New Fixed Anchor” policy in 1995. The policy was designed to stop any new climbing development, but I reckon it just adds to the f...
Argonaut Peak, South Ridge was climbed on May 30, 1977 by Will Parks, Bob Loomis, Dan Schnell and Dave Seman. (NCCS II F6.)David Seman, Unaffiliated
Red Sentinel, Southwest Dihedral. The fourth route on this slender pinnacle was climbed July 27 by Dave Ingalls, Charles Bookman, and Roy Kligfield. After the standard approach from the south, the overhanging inside corner on the southwest side wa...