Kun, West Face. After an unsuccessful attempt to climb the west face of Kun in 1979, Kunihiko Kondo returned to complete the ascent. The expedition approached via the Parktik Glacier. It took 12 days from Base Camp to reach and carry loads to the ...

British Columbia, new ice routes. A few interesting new ice routes were unearthed on the B.C. coast over the past couple of seasons. First up was Rhapsody in Floyd (8 pitches, WI4, Chris Christie and I, March 2008) and Free Tibet! (9 pitches, WI5 ...

SLIP ON SNOW, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HAT, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Base of Mount RobsonOn May 23, M.S. and D.B. were camping at the Kinney Lake Campground. M.S. told D.B...

Manaslu, Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1984. Our expedition consisted of Maciej Berbeka, Marek Danielak, Ryszard Gajewski, Stanislaw Jaworski, Andrzej Machnik, Zbigniew Mlynarczyk, Andrzej Osika, Maciej Pawlikowski, Boguslaw Probulski, Wlodzimierz St...

Huntington Winter Attempt, West Face to the Harvard Route. Leo Americus, Dave McGivern, Charlie Sassara and I flew to the upper Tokositna Glacier on March 11. From an 8000-foot Base Camp, we moved through an icefall to a secondary camp on a bench ...

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUPMENT AND CLOTHING, WEATHERWyoming, TetonsOn August 14, 1984, Dan Winters (21) camped with six friends in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. The next morning they ascended the Southwest Couloir of the Middle Teton. As the...

Shivling. The German Alpine Club organized a training expedition to Shivling during the autumn. The virgin north face was the objective but bad weather upset the plans. They established two high camps on the west ridge. From September 23 to 26 all...

Dzhungarian Alatau, Various Ascents. The team comprised Stuart Batey, Mick Jenkins, John Owens, Catherine Clare, Frank McCorriston, Alan Beeton, Allan Gransden, Carl Burks, Carl Morrish, John Wharry, Darren Weller, and Andrew Grubb. Between us, we...

Nacimiento Massif and Other Peaks, 1986 and 1988. Our club has sent four expeditions into the region south of the Ojos del Salado in 1976, 1986, 1987 and 1988. In 1986 and 1988, we made first ascents. Our 1986 group had seven climbers. In January,...

Mount Adams, Stormy Monday Couloir. Craig Reininger and I made an ascent of a spectacular snow and ice finger on the north side of Mount Adams on July 6 and 7. Starting from the lower Adams Glacier we ascended a snow finger to its left until we ca...

Nez Percé (11,700). First traverse on July 12th, by Robert L. M. Underhill and the writer. Ascent made from east (new route) and traverse of all four summits. Descent by west face.First solo ascent on August 22nd, by George E. Goldthwaite. Ascent ...

Everest, North Face Attempt. We tried to climb a new route on the north face of Everest to the left of the 1984 Australian route. I had intended to go solo but my wife Annie decided to accompany me and we were together on the wall. This route is v...

Princeton Mountaineering Club. On June 17, 1955, Kerck Kelsey (President), Tom Tifft, Dave Isles, Terhan Tirana, Guy Williamson, and Bruce Carrick assembled in the Club station wagon and departed for Glacier, B. C. The party reached the Illecillew...

Artesonraju. From July 22 to August 8 Michael Jacobson, Mark Levinson, James Lingerfeld, Kim Meyers, David Paskin and I climbed Artesonraju (19,766 feet). The ascent was made in three groups on two successive days via the standard route up the nor...

California—Arrowhead: On May 23, 1952 two ropes started up the Arrow-head slightly to the right of the regular route of ascent. They planned to join the regular route which they felt lay directly above them. The climbing was 4th class. Ray Van Ake...

Laramcota Valley, Quimsa Cruz. The Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz can be reached by LaPaz-Viloco local buses. From the village of Tiendapata, near Viloco, I walked up the Choquecota Chico valley and camped near some lakelets shelved under its northern ...

Balmat, Cordillera Blanca. The French Cultural Attaché in Lima, Olivier Dollfus, and François Megard with the Peruvian, Eugenio Angeles, made the first ascent of Balmat (18,045 feet) on July 29 and the third ascent of Ishinka (18,373 feet) on July...

STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NOT ON ANY KNOWN ROUTECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Marmot DomePark dispatch received a cellphone call from climber Daniel Susman (20s) around 10 a.m. on July 15th, in which Susman reported tha...

Pik Vector, first ascent. From March 7-23 Aleksey Avdienko, Maxim Brits, Vitaly Ivanov (leader), and Igor Slobodchikov made the first ascent of Pik 3,716m in the Mushtuajri valley not far from the highest peak in the range, Belukha (4,506m). The t...

Ribbon Falls Amphitheater, Reason Beyond Insanity. On October 12, Canadian Sean Easton and I started up the previously unclimbed 1,200-foot main wall of the Ribbon Falls Amphitheater. Three days earlier we had climbed and fixed ropes on pitches on...