Family Butte Group, San Rafael Swell. In April, in the San Rafael Swell near Goblin Valley, Benny Bach, Charles Martin and I climbed what is probably the last unclimbed tower in the Family Butte Group, Son of Putterman (II, A0+). This is the north...
FALL ON SNOW AND ICE, NO BELAYAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 1, 1990, a party of two climbed the Aemmer) snow couloir variant to the East Ridge route on Mount Temple and scouted out the rest of the route. Because of deteriorating ...
P 5735 and P 6090, Batura Glacier Area. My wife Sue and I enjoyed two weeks in the Batura Glacier area. We left Pasu on August 12 with two porters who carried to Guichisam in three days and then on to the Yoksugoz Glacier, where we pitched Base Ca...
Climbs in Quebrada Ulta, 1974. My wife Jennifer, Chip Morgan, Rick Wilcox and I climbed in the Quebrada Ulta for about ten days. On July 2, 1974 we climbed P 5375 (17,634 feet), the highest point between the Nevado Ulta and the Punta Shilla (incor...
HEIGHT OF EVEREST:Department of GeologyUniversity of OtagoDunedin, N. Z.3rd June, 1953.Sir,In view of the outstanding news from Mt. Everest, and the crowning achievement of the British party, aided so notably by N. Z. climbers, it may be appropria...
Putha Hiunchuli Attempt. German Heinrich Buhr and two Sherpas made an attempt on Putha Hiunchuli (7246 meters, 23,773 feet), hoping to climb the west ridge. They had serious problems on the approach. Their high point was 5300 meters, which they re...
Mount Heyburn, North Buttress of the East (Third) Summit, Sawtooth Mountains. On October 15 my wife Shari and I climbed an obvious buttress on the north face of Hayburn’s east summit. Difficult climbing involved crack climbing. On the fifth pitch ...
Hindu Kush. A small German expedition, led by Harald Biller and composed of his wife Alma, Theo Stöckinger and Hans Vogel, traveled by road from Europe to the Panshir valley in the Hindu Kush, north of Kabul. Continuing from the end of the road on...
Moab Area. David Mondeau and Marty Barcus made the first ascent of Chimney Smoke in Westwater Canyon in July or August, 1976. The sandstone tower was reported to be NCCS III, F8, A2. Lou Dawson and Don Peterson climbed Rimrock Crack to the left of...
Mexican Expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash. We left Chiquián on June 11 and spent until the 22nd in the region of the Jirishancas. We spent much of our time trying to find a way up the glacier to the base of Jirishanca, which was very steep, b...
Mount Bona. On May 19 Jack Wilson, assisted by Ken Bunch, landed our party at 10,100 feet on the Klutlan Glacier. Because of deep snow, Bunch could not get off until the next morning when the snowshoed runway had hardened. As he winged his way out...
Mount Everest, Attempts, Ascents, and Tragedies in the Post-Monsoon. This autumn was the first major season (spring or autumn) since the spring of 1987 that no one was on the South Col route. Four Nepalese permits had been granted, two for the Col...
Colorado Mountain Club. The Club’s annual outing for 1951 was held in the Tetons, with 60 in attendance. The Exum route on the Grand was the most popular—26 ascents. Five members of the Club participated in the successful expedition which made a n...
Cordillera Apolobamba, 1981. From July 10 to 12, 1981 Alberto Campanile, Giuseppe Pierantoni, Giambisi, Della Fina and I climbed the three main summits, P 5430 (17,815 feet), P 5380 (17,651 feet) and P 5340 (17,848 feet), in the long snow ridge be...
Mount Stuart, Northwest Couloir. In early May, Lee Cunningham and I snowshoed once again up Mountaineer Creek. Our objective this trip was the oft-tried couloir between the north ridge and the northwest face routes of Mount Stuart. Our theory was ...
Everest in the Pre-Monsoon. On Everest this spring there fortunately was no such dramatic disaster as the fatal storm of May 1996, although the Internet and other communications media led the public to believe there was. Sadly, a total of eight pe...
Mount Sill, East Face, Dead Larry’s Pillar, Left Side. In August, Kent Davenport, David Wilson and I climbed a new route on the 1400-foot high east face of this spectacular mountain. Our route ascended the left side of a prominent pillar on the so...
Chisana Mountains. My wife Lena and I climbed in this range, some 70 miles south of the Alaska Highway, close to the Yukon border, to which we had access by plane. It is a nice wilderness area but not too interesting from a climbing point of view....
Menthosa. A group of seven Austrians under the leadership of Günther Gruber explored the northeastern approaches to Menthosa up the Miyar Nala but could not find a good route. They turned to the standard southeast route. They placed camps at 17,00...
Gokan Sar, An Italian expedition was made up of Carlo Alberto Pinelli, Guido Machetto, Emilio Caruso and Duilio Fiorini. They ascended the Golen Koh valley until they ascended the Sakchioku Glacier to place Base Camp at 13,800 feet. There were two...