LIGHTNING, POOR POSITIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 24, 1991, at 1500, Tim Finnegan was struck by lightning while climbing the Teeter Tooter Pillar on Longs Peak. The lightning bolt struck above them, traveled down ...
Cho Oyu. Our expedition, Ugo and Gerolamo Gianola, Erma Pomoni, Flavio Spazzadeschi, Sandro Benzoni, Dr. Giuliano De Marchi, Lino Zani and I as leader, climbed Cho Oyu by the normal northwest side. We reached Tingri on April 10, where we spent fou...
ACCIDENTS, 1954 (NOT PREVIOUSLY REPORTED)Carderock, near Washington, D. C. — On December 26, 1954, three climbers, all of whom had had belaying instruction and practice, were making the Cris-Wex-Don Traverse. The leader was an expert climber and e...
Day Canyon. In Day Canyon, also accessed from the Potash Road, Keith Reynolds and Alan Stephenson climbed Prohibition Crack (three pitches, 5.11+) on a new spire (Raptor Tower) left of Bootleg Tower. Bootleg itself, first climbed in 1974 by Eric B...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. This small Section grew in membership during the year. Various members climbed in the Pamirs, the Alps, and the Canadian Rockies. On the home front the Section worked on the rehabilitation of Carde-rock, our most used l...
Hagshu Attempt. Englishman John Barry has made several unsuccessful attempts to climb Hagshu by a new route, the north face. He was back again in September, 1992, accompanied by Bevis Bowden and D.J. “Smiler” Cuth- bertson. The 3500-foot-high face...
Lhotse. Our international group of six was led by Pole Ryszard Pawlowksi. We established Base Camp on September 5. From September 7 to 22, we acclimatized, stocking Camps I, II and III. Bad weather then held us up. On the 29th, Alec McNab from Sco...
Jack Fralick 1919 - 2001Jack Fralick, a 50-year member of the American Alpine Club, passed away in February, 2001 at the age of 81. Jack served on the Club’s Safety Committee, wrote the Committee’s fourth annual Safety Report in 1951, and initiate...
Cerro Giobbi and Cerro Centinela, First Ascents. I decided to take a sabbatical to guide young climbers to unexplored mountain ranges and to give them, in practical terms, some of the climbing forces that drove us in the 1960s.In January, 1997, we...
Artesonraju, South Face. Our expedition comprised five members of the Club Andino Peruano. We crossed Laguna Parón by boat and ascended toward the Pirámide de Garcilaso, but we were surprised to discover that the north side of this mountain was no...
FALL ON ICE, NO PROTECTIONNorth Carolina, Whiteside MountainsAt 2 p.m. on the afternoon of February 6, 1978, Jeff Bates (21) from Atlanta, Georgia, was killed in a fall at the base of the North Face of Devil’s Courthouse, a large granite outcrop o...
Fernow, North Face Ice Apron Variation. The north face of Femow was climbed rather indirectly in 1961 by the Prater-Wickwire party, the last 500 feet of the headwall being avoided by a westward traverse. On a cold September 30 Dave Beckstead, Mark...
Parvati Valley, Various Ascents. The expedition was a joint effort of the Himalayan Club, Mumbai, and The Mountaineers, Seattle. The primary aim of the expedition was to have a climbing holiday in a congenial mountain setting, to promote friendshi...
Prusik Peak, South Face of West Ridge. On August 16, Rich Romano and I ascended the leftmost crack system on the south face of Prusik. The large overhang on the second pitch was passed on the right. A short overhanging hand crack and airy face mov...
Nanda Khat Tragedy. The leader of a Himalayan Association of Japan expedition, Morio Kajima, was the only survivor when avalanches overwhelmed the other seven. Base Camp was set up in late August and three other high camps were established. On Oct...
Kanchenjunga Attempt from the North. Our members were Alois Farber, Georg Hess, Franz Leutgäb, Walter Schmidt, Dr. Klaus Wiener, my wife Dietlinde as Base-Camp manager, and I as leader. We approached from Dhankuta via Dhoban and Ghunsa in 19 days ...
Muztagh Ata, West Ridge. Participants of the Tomsk Sport Club “Burevestnik,” Russia, climbed Muztag Ata (7546 m) by the west ridge on the following days in September: September 19 (Dmitry Bochkov plus four people); September 21 (Sergey Russkikh pl...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II) Attempt and Tragedy. A ten-member French expedition led by Louis Dollo attempted Kangchungtse by the normalsouth-ridge route. The big snowstorm put an end to this team’s climb as it did to many others this season. The high...
McArthur Peak, Central Spur of South Face, 1988. From May 22, 1988 through May 26, Tim Friesen, Ken Wallator and I climbed a new line on a very prominent spur on the south face of McArthur Peak. The 7000-foot route offered excellent climbing on st...
Bridalveil Falls. In January Mike Weis and I climbed Bridalveil Falls near Telluride. Thin, brittle ice with overhanging bulges combined to make the climb technically the most difficult ice climb we had ever done. We made five leads, some very sho...