Tigray, Adwa, Nebelet, and Harrar; new routes and exploration. On November 30, Mark Wilford, my wife Teresa, and I flew from Addis Ababa to Mekele to explore the rock climbing of the Tigray region. We had learned of its climbing potential from Pat...
RAPPEL FAILURE—California, Sierra Nevada Palisades. A group of three teenagers climbed from a glacier camp via the U Notch and chimney to the summit of North Palisade by noon after a 0730 start. They began a class 3 traverse north on the east side...
TOM WILSON1859-1933Tom Wilson, last of the Canadian Pacific trail-blazers and explorers, died at Banff on September 20th, 1933, at the age of seventy-four.His life was so full of meaning in everything pertaining to human interest that, in order to...
Mustagh Tower. Our Swedish expedition managed to put two men on the summit of the Mustagh Tower (7273 meters, 23,862 feet) when Göran Kropp and Anders Rafael Hensen reached the top via the northwest ridge on August 17. This was the fourth successf...
The Bailey Trail, a rare trek in Arunachal Pradesh. During the month of October a team of three Indians comprising Huzefa Electricwala, Dr. Kamal Limdi, and I trekked in the rarely frequented valleys of Arunachal Pradesh, North East India. We firs...
Moran’s South Buttress in WinterA bird’s eye view of obsessionRenny JacksonMarch 5From our warm and sunlit belay ledge, Mark Newcomb and I had a great view as Hans Johnstone easily ascended the steep crack leading up and around to the Double Pendu...
A.A.C., New York Section. After a brief respite for rest and rehabilitation following the Club’s 83rd Annual Meeting, the New York Section continued with a busy schedule of events in 1986. Illustrated lectures were presented by such well known cli...
The Ascent of Nanda Devi, by H. W. Tilman. Foreword by Dr. T. G. Longstaff. xii and 235 pages, 36 illustrations, 2 maps, index. New York: Macmillan Co., $3.50. London: Cambridge University Press, 12/6.It is perhaps unwise for one member of an expe...
Central Farol Peak, probable first ascent. At the start of July our German-Swiss Expedition (Cedric Haehlen, Urs Stoecker, Rainer Treppte, and I) left for the Charakusa Valley. Like other expeditions in 2005, we were refused permits for K7 or K6 f...
The FlameBefore 9-11, this 500-foot granite spike sitting on top of a 2,000-foot face had been the talk of the Trango Valley. Now there was no one to talk with} but when the rain finally stopped, the Flame got fired. Pakistan.Brian McMahonThe crux...
Igor Brakk, Inshallah. In July, Toni Caporale, Maurizio Felici, Alessandro Palmerini, and I opened Inshallah (610m, ABO- VII A0, ice 70°) on Igor Brakk (5,010m) in the Amin Brakk group of the Nangma Valley. The initial goal of our Abruzzo-based ex...
Locations at Maligne LakeAllen CarpeWHEN Howard Palmer and I visited Maligne Lake in 1923, we encountered topographical inconsistencies which had not been anticipated. Looking into the matter after our return, we were surprised to find that the la...
Staunings Alps, Various Ascents. Our lightweight expedition lasted from April 26 to May 18 and consisted of two groups. The ski group comprised Olav Nilssen, Dag Fergestad, Stein Fergestad, Bjrn Backe and Inge Lotsberg. The climbing group was made...
Free HallucinationsDefining a new game: "free aid” on the Hallucinogen Wall, in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado.Jared OgdEnIn 1980, four climbers must have been hallucinating when they set out for a new route in the Black Canyon of the ...
Tiquimani, New Route. In August, 1997, Spaniard Pere Vilarasau soloed the imposing Tiquimani in an impressive five hours round-trip. The 5519-meter mountain northeast of Huayna Potosí (misnamed Cerro Illampu on the IGM maps) has seen few ascents i...
Classic Climbs in the Caucasus. Friedrich Bender, translated by Jill Neate. Diadem Books, London, Menasha Ridge Press, Birmingham, Alabama, 1992. 316 pages. Photographs, maps. $24.95.This beautiful pocket-sized volume is sure dramatically to incre...
Pisco Este, South Ridge, Pukarashta, West Ridge and Other Peaks, 1980. Englishmen Derek Howard and Nick Kekus made a new route on Pisco Este from July 1 to 3, 1980. They climbed a direct line up the south ridge after a difficult icefall approach. ...
FALL ON ROCK, WASPSNew York, ShawangunksOn July 15, a 23-year-old man was climbing Fat Stick, a 5.7 route, when he was stung by wasps. He fell about 60 feet, sustaining only minor injury to an elbow and hip. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisLast year ...
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF ARREST, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HATMontana, Glacier National park, Rainbow PeakOn July 3, Mark Robison (24) and Christopher Foster (23) fell 2000 feet to their deaths. They had nearly summitted Rainbow Peak when the l...
Gul Lasht Zom South and Gul Lasht Zom Southeast, Hindu Kush. Our 12-member Italian expedition reached the roadhead at Shogrom and in three days got to Base Camp at 4650 meters below Istor-O-Nal on the Upper Tirich Glacier. On August 9, we crossed ...