Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Long’s Peak. On 27 August, C. Blake Hiester, Jr. (48), Richard Hiester (18), Pete DiLeo (19), and Nelson Gieseke were attempting Kiener’s Route (4th Class) on the east face of Long’s Peak. They had accomplis...
On April 25,1985, a five member Japanese party, Tokyo Hakuryo Alaska Expedition, flew to the 2130 Kahiltna landing strip for their climb of the West Buttress of Mt. McKinley. On May 1, Yoshikatsu Sumimoto (37) began to suffer symptoms of High Alti...
DEEP-VEIN THROMBOSIS-INADEQUATE MEDICATION SUPPLY Alaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 6, Anatoli Lakteonov of the same Russian team as above was brought by members of his expedition to the NPS Basecamp. Patient was o...
Broad Peak Attempt. Our Spanish expedition consisted of Carlos Soria, Miguel López, Mariano Arrazola, Salvador Rivas, Luis López and me. The route we picked was the west spur, which rises some 11,000 feet and has difficult spots. This was the Poli...
Longs Peak, its story and a climbing guide, by Paul W. Nesbit. Fifth Edition, 65 pages, published by Paul W. Nesbit, 711 Colombia Road, Colorado Springs 4, Colorado. $1.50 postpaid.The fifth edition of the Longs Peak story naturally contains all o...
Nun, North Ridge. A ten-man Indian Army team from the Dogra Regiment, led by Major Prem Chand, set up Base Camp on June 10. After establishing four more camps, on June 19 Harnam Singh, Thakur Dass, Lalit Kumar and Mohammad Amin reached the summit ...
Kangchenjunga Tragedy. Cherie Bremer-Kemp, her husband Dr. Chris Chandler and Nepalese porter Mangal Singh Tamang climbed from 24,000 feet on the north face of Kangchenjunga to 26,000 feet on January 14, 1985. They had hoped to climb to the summit...
A Settemila Metri: Gli Inca, Precursori d’Alpinismo, by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Tamari Editori, 1969. 24 pages, 18 illustrations (some in color), 1 map.The notion that mountaineering began with the first ascent of Mont Blanc is no longer acceptable...
Peaks in Gazen Gol, Hindu Raj. From Chitral, which they left on July 13, the RCC II Expedition traveled through Mastuj, Brep, Wasam and Nichaf to reach Base Camp at 13,325 feet at Garpigar in the Gazen Gol, above the Yakhun River. The climbers wer...
Everest Attempt. Xavier Murillo, Pierre and Annie Beghin and I were helicoptered to Namche Bazar on September 21. We were at Base Camp on the 24th. The weather was beautiful. The rest of the international expedition led by Swiss Fredy Graf had mad...
Nevado Juncal. A Spanish expedition from Valencia, five climbers led by Miguel Gómez, ascended the western summit of this great ice mountain in March. This summit is currently held as 5960 meters high (19,554 feet), but local climbers believe that...
Shaqsha Sur, southeast face. In June Peruvian guides Elias Flores and Miguel Martinez, with Cesar Rosales and Italian Tizianoi Orio, made the first ascent of the southeast face of the slightly lower South Summit (ca. 5,697m) of Shaqsha. The elegan...
Dunagiri, North Face, New Route and Attempt, Previously Unreported. It was reported that in 1998, Spaniards Xabier Guembe and Jon Beloki completed a new route (80 degrees, IV, 1900 meters) alpine-style on the previously unclimbed north face of Dun...
Simian Climbing Club. In the fall the Simians conducted their usual instruction trips to the local cliffs at Portland Arch, Indiana. About 40 to 50 beginners learned the basics of rock climbing, and there were several weekend trips to Devils Lake,...
Nordenskjold attempt and Normann ascent. John Griber, Hilaree Nelson, and Rick Armstrong along with film crew Tom Day and John Teaford, made up a strong U.S. team, led by Doug Stoup that visited the island in October and November. They traveled ab...
Ogre, Karakoram. We spent considerable time searching for a route up the south face of the Ogre, but due to objective dangers, this face was eventually rejected and we trekked three days to reconnoitre the north face. A feasible route was discover...
Peaks in Llanganuco Valley. Laurie Skreslet, Tom Marron, Joe Duhaime, Larry Derby and I made the following climbs: Yanapaccha Sur (16,880 feet) on June 2 by Marron, Stanley, traverse from north to south; Yanapaccha (17,914 feet) on June 6 by Marro...
Cerro Stanhardt and Traverse to Punta Herron, 1991. From October 26 to 29, 1991, Ermanno Salvaterra, Ferruccio Vidi and Adriano Cavallaro made an extraordinary traverse. Bivouacking before reaching the summit, they climbed Cerro Stanhardt via the ...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Franconia NotchOn August 4, 1989, two climbers (both 35) from Philadelphia were having obvious trouble on the Whitney-Gilman Ridge (5.7). We chose a 5.8 variat...
Nianqintanggula. A 12-person expedition from Tohoku University in Japan was led by Mario Kuzunushi. They left Lhasa on March 25 and traveled about 100 kilometers on the highway and another four off of it to place Base Camp at 4800 meters at Panyut...