HAR Pinnacle, Corn Beef Chili Pasta à la Wahab; Pt. 5,500m, G-Strings and Plastic Boots, not to summit; Latok I, north face and north ridge, attempts; Sus Galinas. On August 12 Louis- Philippe Menard and I set up base camp on the Choktoi Glacier, ...
INADEQUATE ANCHOR, FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, FATIGUE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESIdaho, City of RocksOn March 25, 1992, Dan Maynes (24) and I (23) were climbing at City of Rocks National Reserve in Southern Idaho. We had both just graduated in Mechanica...
The Mazamas. Through its Climbing Committee, chaired by Don Erickson, The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, offers comprehensive mountaineering education from beginning through advanced levels; organizes summer, winter, and rock-climbing schedules; sel...
American Entries in the Travellers’ Book of the Grands Mulets, 1861-75J. Monroe ThoringtonIN 1943 the American Alpine Club published the writer’s Early American Ascents in the Alps, which recorded many ascents of Mont Blanc in the 19th century. Th...
Puncak Jaya, new route and first snowboard descent; Carstensz Pyramid, new route. On April 23, Corey Rich, Rob Milne, and I climbed Puncak Jaya by a new and interesting glacier route. Then I made the first snowboard descent of that peak, riding do...
McKinley’s South Face- Alpine StyleAlex BertulisTHE drawback of climbing most major high-altitude mountains is that they require siege tactics. Ropes are fixed and camp gear is hauled along. More food is required because more time is spent ferryin...
ALEXANDER ADDISON McCOUBREY1885-1942Such a fine notice has appeared on the life of our late member, A. A. McCoubrey, in the Canadian Alpine Journal that it seems best now only to supplement what has already appeared there.Mac had been a member of ...
EXPOSURE, BAD WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, DARKNESS, INEXPERIENCE—California, Yosemite Valley. The following report was given by Larry Day (26) and Donald Evans (23) following their rescue, during which Jack Dorn (30)—a member of the Yosemite Re...
Domes at Courtright Reservoir. During the spring of 1978 I made my first visit to the Courtright Reservoir area on the west side of the Sierra Nevada. One needs the help of someone who has spent hours driving the tiny, winding roads that guard it....
Long’s Peak, The Diamond, Smash the State. Between May 15-20, Ken Sauls and I made the second ascent of Smash the State (VI- 5.8 A5) on the Diamond of Long’s Peak. Jim Beyer made the first ascent of this route in April of 1988, solo. Doug Hall and...
Kara Kunlun, Dolkun Muztag (6,355m), first ascent. The student mountaineering party of Tokai University Alpine Club was the first to climb an unexplored peak (6,355m) in the Kara Kunlun mountains at the westernmost end of the Xinjiang Kunlun in Ch...
Lhotse south face, winter ascent (not to summit). On December 27, our six-member expedition from the Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club finally climbed the south face of Lhotse (8,516m), though the successful party was not able to continue ...
LIONEL TERRAY 1921-1965Most of his public life is so well known through his book "The Conquerors of the Useless” that it would be pointless to repeat it here. Lionel was, to those who knew him well, a very vulnerable man in that he was, contrary t...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall-East Rib. On March 17 through March 22 Craig Eilers, Dale Farnham, Matt Christensen and I successfully completed a winter ascent of Mount Rainier’s famed Willis Wall, via the east rib. A bivouac was made two-thirds of th...
Alan Nelson 1959-2007On December 23, 2007 the climbing community lost one of its most dedicated, prolific, and energetic members. After a hard-fought and stunningly brief struggle, Alan Nelson succumbed to a gastrointestinal cancer. His sister Kat...
Death Canyon, Chimney of Death. Mike Yokell and Andy Cox on July 22 climbed this large chimney on the first major buttress east of the Sentinel Turret. It may be identified as directly above the first large boulderfield past the fourth switchback ...
Huandoy Group and Chopicalqui. Our expedition was rather unusual since it was composed of my brothers José Ignacio and Rafael, my sister Juana Mary Ariz de Arteta and me with our spouses, Loli Garro, Mertxe Lizaso, José Arteta and Pili Ganuza resp...
The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain environments. The AAC awards more than $80,000 annually, although the size and number of awards va...
New Climbs in the Bailey Range. Two parties climbed in this seldom visited range in 1961, and though records are incomplete the following climbs appear to be first ascents:Mount Childs (6205 feet) is located a mile north-northeast of Bear Pass. Th...
A New Route on the North Face of Mount TempleHENRY L. ABRONSEVER since the Sourdoughs lugged afourteen-foot pole from Fairbanks to the North Peak of McKinley, climbers have adopted the custom of beginning their adventures in barrooms. Out of respe...