A.A.C., Alaska Section. 1984 was another fine year for our Section. It began with a good season of winter mountaineering, highlighted by the Second Annual Ice-Climbing Festival in Valdez. The rate of first ascents of waterfalls slowed somewhat fro...
Mardi Phabrang and Tupendo I Attempt, Eastern Kishtwar. A seven- member British team led by David Mortimer had hoped to climb Mardi Phabrang (6062 meters) and Tupendo I (5700 meters). When Dr. Jonathan Bamber was struck in the leg by rockfall on S...
Lhotse in the Post-Monsoon. All ascents of Lhotse in the autumn were by the normal west-face route from the Western Cwm. The first to reach the summit were Loretan and Troillet, reported above. Three other expeditions were successful, placing clim...
Eric Brooks 1902 - 2001As an old friend and occasional climbing companion of Eric Brooks, and as a fellow member of the Alpine Club of Canada, I would like to offer my remembrance.Eric started climbing when he met Emmie Milledge, already an enthus...
Tupungato, South Face. It was reported that on January 6, 1997, Christiane Herrmann, Olaf Hollik and Frank Kostrovn climbed the south face of Tupungato (ca. 6550m), a popular high volcano in the Central Andes. The line (40-50° snow) may or may not...
The Columbia Mountains of Canada—West and South. Earle R. Whipple, Roger W. Laurilla, William L. Putnam. American Alpine Club Press, 1992. 230 pages, maps and photographs. $25.00.The long overdue seventh edition of the climber’s guide to the Inter...
Artesonraju and Caraz I, 1980. French guides Bernard Richermoz and Frédéric Pouye on June 2, 1980 made a new route on Artesonraju between the south face and the east ridge, after bivouacking at 17,400 feet. A Spanish expedition from Pamplona compo...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATNew York, ShawangunksOn November 22, while seconding a traverse on Rusty Trifle, a 5.3 route, a climber (24) fell about 20 feet and fractured his skull. He was wearing no hard hat. (Source: Brad Snyder)
RAPPEL FAILURE—ROPES TOO SHORT, STRANDEDNevada, Red Rocks Canyon NCAOn February 8, the Las Vegas Metropolitan Police Department SAR unit responded to a call regarding a stranded climber on a rock face at Willow Springs. The victim (25) was rappell...
Mir Samir Attempt and Ascent of P 5000. After years when it was too dangerous to enter the mountains of Afghanistan, New Zealander Bob McKerrow and Englishmen Ian Clarke and Jon Tinker headed in 1994 for Mir Samir in the Hindu Kush. McKerrow is He...
Stuart Range. Several new routes were climbed in the Stuart Range. The west face of Colchuck Balanced Rock (Grade IV, 5.10, A2) was climbed in early August by Mark Twight and Mark Johnston. This steep wall is seen from the Colchuck Lake area. The ...
California, San Gabriel Mountains, Mt. Baldly. On December 5, James Chopp (19) and Thomas Richards (20) started up the south slopes of Mt. Baldy. The weather was cold with a gusty north wind blowing and climbing conditions were generally poor. Nei...
Dongrimo and Other Peaks In The Losar Valley, Various Ascents. The twelve-member team of the Rock Climbing School, Calcutta, India, led by Rajani Rakshit attempted many peaks in the Losar valley of the western Spiti. On August 14, Satyajit Kar, Bi...
Mt. Snoqualmie, Pineapple Express. On my third attempt this year, Roger Strong and I climbed the line of corners tracing up the longest part of the northwest face of Mt. Snoqualmie. We completed the climb on February 9, 2005. Located only an hour ...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LouisOn September 2, 1982, two climbers, both in their midtwenties, were ascending the standard route on Mount Louis. At the start of the final chimney pitches near the summit, the leader fe...
ILLNESS-PREEXISTING CONDITION NOT REPORTEDAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 14, Chi-Hyeon Pack (27) was evacuated by helicopter from Mount McKinley due to symptoms of a gastrointestinal bleed. A few hours later he underwent surgery for a...
Witches Tower, North Face Dihedral, 1986. On July 30, 1986 Dan Nordstrom and I hiked in over Asgard Pass to test this sunless dihedral. We started in a white dihedral to the left of the main open-book. The next two pitches followed the main corner...
New England Section. In February our Section helped the International Mountain Climbing School sponsor the 18th annual Ice Fest in North Conway, New Hampshire. Our members answered the call for volunteers en masse. Tim Deroehn and Robert Castro ma...
Nanda Khat. This peak (6611 meters, 21,619 feet) in the Pindari region and on the Nanda Devi rim was climbed on June 13 by Samarendra Nath Dhar, Ranjan K. Mondal and Asoke K. Roy Chowdhury from a second bivouac at 21,200 feet, which was above thei...
Kanchenjunga, Solo Ascent. Hoping to climb the normal southwest route on Kanchenjunga, Hanns Schell and I, accompanied by Dr. Hermann Krüttner and photographer Franz Haigermoser, set off on March 16. After a 17-day approach, we set up Base Camp on...