Book Reviews AAJ
Field Book: The Absaroka Range, Yellowstone Park

Field Book: The Absaroka Range, Yellowstone Park by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver: Sage Books, 1963. 302 pages, ills., maps, supplement. Price $2.00.This Field Book employs the same layout found in the Field Book to the Teton Range b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Ladakh-Kashmir, Kun

Kun. Our expedition made the difficult crossing of the Suru river on August 16. Fortunately we had a small pneumatic boat. We climbed the northeast ridge, the normal route. We placed Base Camp at 14,750 feet on the 18th, Camp I at 17,725 feet on t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga, Solo

Kangchenjunga, Solo. I reached the top of Kangchenjunga solo without supplementary oxygen on October 18 after 33 days on the mountain. I shared the route to Camp I at 20,400 feet on the “Hump” with Polish and French expeditions, both climbing Yalu...


Book Reviews AAJ
Montagne di Groenlandia

Montagne di Groenlandia, by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Tamari Editori, 1969. 374 pages, 280 photographs, 39 sketches and maps.Lovers of the Arctic mountain world will be happy to see this volume, the first actual book on the mountains of Greenland. Th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Peaks above Chhutidum Glacier

Peaks above Chhutidum Glacier. Germans from Hannover and Hammeln, Peter Geihs, leader, Detlef and Hartmut Ahlbrecht and Tilman Spohr, ascended the Ushnu valley to the confluence of the Kotgaz and Chhutidum glaciers where Base Camp was established ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Polish-Austrian Everest Attempt

Polish-Austrian Everest Attempt. Poles Tadeusz Karolczak and Aleksander Lwow and Austrian Helmut Putz originally wanted to climb the south pillar of Everest, but the Japanese set unacceptable conditions for making the Khumbu Icefall accessible to ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Cordillera Central

Cordillera Central. The Frenchman D. Eichenbugeno and Manuel Bazán and Raúl Riesco, both from Santiago, entered the Barros Negros group of rock peaks located north of the mining village of Pérez Caldera in December 1971. From a base camp at 11,000...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Rurec, Caravaca Jubilar

Rurec, Caravaca Jubilar. After installing base camp in mid-July 2003 below Rurec (5,080m) and fixing the initial pitches, we began our first capsule-style attempt carrying food, water, and gear for three weeks. The team: Alfonso Cerdan Sandoval, m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Thalay Sagar, High Tension

Thalay Sagar, High Tension. Russian alpinists Alexander Klenov, Alexey Bolotov, Mikhail Davy and Mikhail Pershin established a new route on the north face of Thalay Sagar (6904m). High Tension (ABO, 7b A3+, 1400m) takes a line up the rock buttress...


Club Activities AAJ
Potomac Applachian Trail Club

Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The Mountaineering Section had one of its most active seasons in 1969. We had scheduled climbing trips every weekend throughout the year, and the Memorial Day weekend trip to the Shawangunks saw nearly 50 members ma...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, South Georgia, Three Brothers, First Ascent

Three Brothers, first ascent. Sailing aboard the yacht Pelagic, Alun Hughes, Skip Novak (captain of Pelagic), and I arrived at South Georgia with the aim of making a five-part series on sailing, climbing, and the history of wildlife on the island ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Malubiting

Malubiting. A Japanese expedition from Kyoto was led by Mitsugi Koyama. Their attempt to climb Malubiting (24,451 feet) was given up when on May 24 two Pakistani porters, Hidayat Shah and Arab Khan, were swept by an avalanche for 2000 feet down to...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Pisco and Tocllaraju

Pisco and Tocllaraju. French climbers were active in the Llanganuco. On August 20 Alexi Lucchesi, Jean and Aimée Germanaz, Jacques Lambre and Peruvian Felipe Mautino climbed Pisco. The same peak was also climbed by Manks Wiliam and his wife, and b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre

Cerro Torre. Dan Cauthorn and I departed Chaltén on January 3 and began the long, arduous trudge to the west side of the Torres. Enduring winds seldom blew less than 60-mph and frequently gusted to 100-mph. After establishing Base Camp on January ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Climbing Alone and Unroped, New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge

STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeIn January of 1989, a man (25) became stranded on Cathedral Ledge, feeling he could not go up or down. He yelled to someone on the ground to lower a rope, but he had no rope. So the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Ningchin Kangsha

Ningchin Kangsha. Ningchin Kangsha, which used to be given by G.O. Dyhrenfurth as Nodzin Kangsan with an altitude of 7252 meters, lies southwest of Lhasa on the highway from Lhasa to Kathmandu, two kilometers from the Lalo La. It was climbed by a ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Failure to Self-Arrest, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO SELF-ARRESTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos CanyonOn August 16, 1991, Wolfgang Schoch and Thorstein Hoh (18) were climbing a 45- degree snowfield in Chaos Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu Attempt

Cho Oyu Attempt. On April 9, Australian Bill Harkin and I arrived at Tingri. Difficulties with yak drivers and moraine snow drifts prevented our establishing Base Camp at 5700 meters until the 27th. We attempted the northwest-face route with camps...


Notes ANAM
Analysis of Accidents

ANALYSIS OF ACCIDENTSA breakdown of the accidents that occurred during the past year (1955) and the cumulative totals are presented in Table II. There does not appear to be any marked change in the various groupings. Comment has been made concerni...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Long Canyon

Long Canyon. Another impressive tower climb of the past year was the free ascent by Steph Davis of Jim Olsen and Alley Hunt’s 1995 ascent of the Warrior in Long Canyon, a branch off the popular Potash Road southwest of Moab. The route was rated 5....