Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. Late changes and a new set of illustrations delayed publication of our Climbers Guide to Seneca Rocks until 1971. (We had erroneously reported it as completed in last year’s Journal report.) Covering nearly 100 rout...
Everest, from Sea Level to the Summit. My objective was to make the first real ascent of Everest from sea level, alone on the mountain, unassisted and without suplementary oxygen. The first preference for the final route to the summit was by the w...
Nanga Parbat via Rakiot Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Angelo Giovanetti, Claudio Toldo, Costante Carpella, Francesco Mich, Roberto Dall’O and me as leader. On June 6, after two days of travel, we arrived at Base Camp at 4000 meters ...
Everest, Two British Attempts. In the spring there were two British expeditions attempting Everest from the north. The nine-man Cumbrian expedition led by Pat Gunson had planned to try the west ridge while the fourteen-man Special Air Service Regi...
1951-19881989Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta232685169518British Columbia219854765310Yukon Territory292563000Ontario24648102Quebec15443316East Arctic7...
The American Alpine Club as an Auxiliary in Glacial ResearchRichard Foster Flint[It is a pleasure to reprint the address which Professor Flint, Professor of Geology at Yale and Vice-Chairman of the Arctic Institute of North America, delivered at a...
“The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!” —Alex Lowe By the time of his sudden, tragic death beneath an avalanche on Tibet’s forbidding Mount Shishapangma, Alex Lowe had become a mountain character larger than life...
First Ascents in the Coast Range of British ColumbiaWilliam L. PutnamIN ORDER to meet a great demand in the Harvard Mountaineer ing Club for a summer expedition, I announced in March 1947 that I would lead a trip to the Coast Range of British Colu...
“UNFOUNDED”Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 7,1993, at 2152, HAM radio operator Scott Kimball contacted Rocky Mountain National Park dispatch via a HAM base station operator in Wellington, Colorado. Kimball reported from t...
Report of the Fourth International Congress of Alpinism in Cortina d’Ampezzo (Italy) September 9th to September 14th, 1933The Congress was opened on September 9th by S. E. Angelo Manaresi, President of the Italian Alpine Club and of the Fourth Int...
Shishapangma, southwest face, fast solo ascent and soloing/single-push history. It is easy to lose perspective in the Himalaya. Base camps bulge with expeditions, routes are choked with climbers and the once-pervasive feeling of isolation can be r...
Colorado, Cliff between Rollinsville and Pinecliff—On 9 February, Paul A. Murphy (21) with four companions began climbing a nearly vertical cliff about 100 feet high, ¾ mile northeast of Rollinsville. At a point 75 feet above the Denver and Rio Gr...
Kyashar (aka Peak 43, 6,770m), first official ascent. Climbing new routes in the Himalaya isn’t what it used to be. Nowadays you just surf two browsers from the security of your own internet connection: one of these is a search engine and the othe...
South Shukpa Kungchang Glacier, various ascents. In December 2009 Mark Richey e-mailed a photo of a beautiful gray granite rock peak he’d seen from base camp on an expedition to the Indian Karakoram. He was recruiting for another visit to the regi...
Shivling (6,543m), north face and northwest ridge. Well-acclimatized after their second ascent of Muztagh Ata’s southeast ridge, reported elsewhere in this Journal, Kazuya Hiraide (26) and Kei Taniguchi (33) arrived in Delhi on September 19 and by...
Arwa Tower (6,352m), north face, Lightning Strike. From May 31 to June 8, the team of Denis Burdet, Thomas Senf, and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascent of the north face of Arwa Tower (6,352m), via the route Lightning Strike (900m, VI M5 5.9 A...
ON 4 October 1947 the Council voted to form a committee to be called the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club. Its purpose is to investigate climbing accidents and to formulate a program of prevention for the future. It has been the initia...
K2 Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy. A large number of expeditions was active this year on K2. An expedition of Spanish Basques led by Juan Oiarzabal established Base Camp at 4950 meters at the foot of the mountain. They climbed the route pioneered b...
Silver Star Mountain, Gato Negro. On June 21, 2001 Larry Goldie and Scott Johnston, both of Mazama, WA, established a probable new route on the west face of Silver Star Mountain near Washington Pass in the North Cascades. The climb follows the lin...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCEVermont, Smugglers NotchOn August 1, 1980, two young men (ages 18 and 20) were climbing with no equipment on a face in Smugglers Notch. One of them fell while trying to descend to the other, wh...