Dak Tower, Flowers for Blaise, and Mt. McArthur, Some Kind of Monster. Between spells of consistently bad weather, Joe Josephson (Bozeman, MT) and David Dornian (Calgary, AB) climbed two new routes in the Mt. Logan area between May 29 and June 3. ...
Southwestern Mountaineers. The Southwestern Mountaineers is a club of climbers, hikers, cavers, and general nature lovers whose membership is drawn mainly from Las Cruces, New Mexico, and its environs. Our main climbing activity is in the Organ Mo...
Tirich Mir. Our expedition consisted of Anton Knecht, Eric Marchand, Paul Beyeler, Ernst Hunziker, Heinz Fahrer, Pierre Galland, Daniel Chevallier and me as leader. We climbed the Czech route of 1968. After a four-day approach, we reached Base Cam...
Montana: Glacier National Park. During the summer of 1949, Tom Moulds, a 23-year old University of Washington student from Santa Barbara, California, fell into a canyon from the snow- covered sides of 9,147-foot Reynolds Mountain while he was hiki...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 14 October Jim Madsen (20) and four others went to the top of El Capitan to go to the aid of two climbers who had been on the Dihedral Wall since 9 October. The weather had been rainy and cold and Madsen and ...
Ama Dablam Solo. After the Tawoche climb with Roskelley and Bridwell was given up, our Japanese American Alpine Club member, Naoe Sakashita, headed alone for Ama Dablam’s south ridge. After reconnaissance, on April 30 he bivouacked at 5700 meters....
Mount Silverthrone. Keith Anderson and Ken Kleine made the second ascent of Mount Silverthrone by a new route up the Traleika Glacier via Silverthrone Col. The climb was made from camp at 7000 feet to the 13,220-foot summit in a single, 12-hour push.
Mount Tittmann, St. Elias Mountains, 1991. Mount Tittmann (3525 meters, 11,565 feet) was probably the second-highest, named, unclimbed mountain in Alaska. The few climbers who had seen it had considered it ominous and forbidding. It sits within se...
FALL THROUGH CORNICE, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Columbia IcefieldOn April 23, 1989, Chris (33) and William (38) had just completed an ascent of Slipstream. They were walking along the corniced edge of Snow Dome looking for the descent route...
Tripura Tumba (Hanging Glacier Peak). On September 12 Katashi Tokimoto, Shunsuke Kobayakawa, Hiroaki Ioka and I as leader set out from Jumla with 50 porters. We went up the Jagdura valley north of Hurikot village. The approach was difficult. At ti...
Koh-e-Keshnikhan Northeast Ridge. Our expedition was composed of P.A. Froidevaux, C. Reuille, A. Villiger de Lausanne and J.J. Asper, C. Dalphin, J.F. Gal, J. Loretz and me of Geneva. We had as our objective the fourth ascent of Keshnikhan by a ne...
K2 Attempt. New Zealanders Gary Ball, Lydia Bradey, Bill Atkinson and Robert Hall attempted to climb K2 up the Abruzzi Ridge at the same time as the American team. They established Base Camp on June 8 and three high camps in the next ten days. The...
Patagonia, An Early Assessment of the 1974 Season. (This letter was written on February 8, 1974. Since no detailed information is available as we go to press, we have included this incomplete report.—Editor.) Yesterday Carlos Comesaña arrived from...
Kangchungtse Post-Monsoon Ascents. An expedition of six Spanish Basques successfully climbed Kangchungtse (Makalu II; 7678 meters, 25,190 feet) by its south ridge. The summit was reached by the leader José Ramón Aquirare, Ramón Baztarrika and Mike...
FALL ON ROCK, INAPPROPRIATE FOOTWEARWashington, Icicle Creek CanyonOn October 1, 1991, about 1400, Jon Thompson (22), climbing with Marty Thayer (28), had just finished climbing “Face Lift” (5.10a) and was casually rehearsing opening moves on “Bee...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATKentucky, Red River GorgeAs is usually the case, Breakfast Burrito (5.10d) had a line of climbers waiting for it on June 6, and when she finally had a chance, CL (age unknown) took her turn on Breakfast Burrito. CL and ano...
Peak 8800, Ascent, and Mount Foraker Massif, The Way. Not being able to find a partner for a June climb on the Foraker Massif, I found someone to do a day climb with. Tony and I climbed a low-angled snow gully on the south side of Peak 8800. The g...
PULMONARY EDEMA—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Charles Gasser (20) was part of a six-person expedition ascending Mount McKinley via the Muldrow Glacier route. They began their climb from Kantishna on April 22, 1976. At 7 a.m. on May 18, Gasser began showin...
DARKNESS—LATE START, DEHYDRATION, HYPOTHERMIA (CARRIED NO WATER), INADEQUATE CLOTHING, CREATING A HAZARDOUS CONDITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile Buttress, NutcrackerOn March 30, at 2310, Reza Tabrizi (22) called NPS dispatch from the ...
Ski Traverse of the Whole Alaska Range. George Beilstein, Steve Eck, Scott Woolums and I* skied the 350 or 400 miles from Mentasta Lake, some 50 miles from Tok Junction on the Glenallen Highway, to the Kichatna Mountains in about 45 days. Our rout...