Rakaposhi. The Irish Himalayan Expedition consisted of P. O’Leary, leader, G. Garrett, E. Goulding, T. Kavanagh, B. O’Flynn, S. Payne and myself. Captain Rafi Mohn was liaison officer and we had four Hunza high-altitude porters. After arriving at ...
Annapurna I. Our eleven-man team, celebrating the 75th jubilee of the Royal Dutch Alpine Club climbed a new and safe route on the north face of Annapurna (26,545 feet). On October 13 the summit was reached by Mathieu van Rijswick and Sherpa Sona...
Alpamayo Norte. On June 17 R.J. Campbell, Carson and Lynn Black and I left Huaraz for the Quebrada de los Cedros. It took us three days to reach Laguna Jancarurish via Hacienda Colcas. Leaving Lynn to tend Base Camp, we three men set out with five...
Alpamayo, Southeast Face, and Quitaraju. The Yugoslav Alpamayo Expedition reached Base Camp at 14,275 feet above the Quebrada Santa Cruz below Alpamayo on May 23. During the first week they recon- noitered the passes to the south and east and disc...
Huayanay V, 1981, Cordillera Vilcabamba. In 1976 the Scottish expedition to the Huayanay Range indicated that three peaks remained unclimbed, namely Huayanay III (Nevado Palchaioj), Huayanay V (Huayallabamba) and Nevado Esquina. It appeared that H...
Baboquivari Peak, Cloud Man Got Angry. In March Jackie Carroll and I added a four-pitch variation, Cloud Man Got Angry, to Born of Water. The variation is definitely a better alternative. Start 30 feet right of Born of Water and slightly downhill,...
P 5445, Ascent and Tragedy. It was reported that a British team of Mick Davie and Joanna Newton experienced a tragic end to their climbing vacation when Davie died because of a collapsing cornice near the summit of the unclimbed P 5445. On July 18...
Jack Mountain, East Ridge. On a weekend excursion to Jack Mountain, my brother Carl and I climbed this route. From a high camp below the southeast ridge, a traverse was made across the east glacier to gain the ridge. The climb offered a straightfo...
Portillo and Pangal districts. Among the more important activities for the 1969-1970 local season (December through March) are the following climbs. The rock peak of Caracoles (4510 meters, 14,797 feet), located near the ski resort of Portillo, wa...
Broad Peak, Alpine Style. After two weeks of completing formalities in Rawalpindi, on May 15 Georges Bettembourg and I, accompanied by Gilles Sourice, movie photographer, and Dr. Jean Fauchard, left Skardu. It took us twelve days to reach Base Cam...
Nepalese Himalaya, Various Activity in the Post-Monsoon Season. On Ama Dablam, 72 climbers from all but one of 12 teams summitted via the same narrow southwest ridge; there were so many people on the ridge that they had to pitch their tents at odd...
Mount Russell, Sbruno-Sbruski Route. In August, Scott Ayers and I climbed a six-pitch crack system on the south face, to the right of the south buttress. (III, 5.10.) (Editor’s note—This route and the preceding one are undoubtedly very close to on...
Mount Blackburn, Wrangell Mountains. There were two expeditions on Mount Blackburn (16,523 feet). The Mountaineering Association of Daito City was composed of Tadanobu Yokoyama, leader, Toshiyuki Shinto and four others. From Base Camp at 7700 feet...
Peak 11,520', The Flame. After a brief reconnaissance up the Northwest Fork of the Tokositna and a week of bad weather, on May 6 Seth Hobby and I cast off onto what we believe is a new route on the north face of Peak 11,520', one of two peaks alon...
Mulkila IV and Koa Rong I, Lahul, 1979. A (British) Royal Air Force and Indian Air Force expedition led by Wing Commander N.W. Ridley climbed Mulkila IV (21,380 feet, 6517 meters) and Koa Rong I (20,201 feet, 6157 meters) in September 1979. There ...
Valhalla Range, Southern Selkirks. The Kootenay Mountaineering Club established a climbing camp at Mulvey Meadows (6600 feet) from August 1 to 8. Dunnage, food and prefabricated hut sections were flown in from Slocan by helicopter. We erected the ...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park. On 14 June, Jay DuPont (15) was climbing with two companions. He separated himself from the party. He had expressed a desire to slide down a rock face because he felt it would be fun and easier. The face was...
UNITED STATESFROSTBITE, DEHYDRATION, DAMP MITTENSAlaska, Iliamna VolcanoOn February 9,1985, Ken Zafron, George Rooney, Willie Hersman (34), and Rudi Bertschi (38) flew to the Tuxedni Glacier. They hoped to make the first winter ascent of Iliamna V...
AMSAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn the evening of June 6, the Russian Denali Expedition requested the assistance of the NPS volunteer doctor at the 17,200-foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley because one m...
Broad Peak Attempt. Our expedition was led by Dr. Franz Berghold and composed of Günther Knauseder, Horst Schindlbacher, Peter and Wastl Wörgötter and me. We had the usual approach problems, such as porter strikes, lost baggage and swept-away brid...