Fairchild Mountain, Haunch Bauncho Buttress, East Face. On September 26 and 27, Peter H. Robinson and I completed this 14-lead, 1000-foot climb, which took two days because of a late start. Route finding was interesting and the rock was good. We f...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY Oregon, Cascades of Oregon, Three Fingered JackOn August 5, 1994, three of us (Katie, Lyn, and myself) hiked into Summit Lake off the Pacific Crest Trail to set up camp. On Saturday morning we hiked up to the mountai...

Gauntlet Peak, Baffin Island. In August Ken Hunter, Frank Gordon and I climbed in the Pangnirtung Pass region. Base Camp was established at 500 feet below the west buttress of Gauntlet Peak. Advanced Base was made two days later at 2500 feet in th...

Dabneyland, Various Ascents. This area is just outside and south of Monument Basin. It is named after Walt Dabney, who began the Canyonland’s “No New Fixed Anchor” policy in 1995. The policy was designed to stop any new climbing development, but I...

Argonaut Peak, South Ridge was climbed on May 30, 1977 by Will Parks, Bob Loomis, Dan Schnell and Dave Seman. (NCCS II F6.)David Seman, Unaffiliated

Red Sentinel, Southwest Dihedral. The fourth route on this slender pinnacle was climbed July 27 by Dave Ingalls, Charles Bookman, and Roy Kligfield. After the standard approach from the south, the overhanging inside corner on the southwest side wa...

Ascents of Imje Tse and Ama Dablam. We ascended Imje Tse (20,305 feet). The summit was reached by Don McIntyre, team leader, David Bridges, Mattie Thomson and Minga Dorje Sherpa. We then went on to ascend Ama Dablam (22,494 feet) via the Southwest...

Sentinel Rock, North Face, Flying Buttress Direct. In June Chris Fredricks and I established a new route on the north face of Sentinel Rock. Our route followed a huge chimney system in the center of the Flying Buttress, the 800-foot high buttress ...

TABLE IMountaineering Accidents and Mortality Rates United StatesReported man-mountain days/year, 1953-1954 18,722Accident Rates per 1000 reported man-mountain days0.98Mortality rate per 1000 reported man-mountain days 0.60Table I summarizes the o...

Narao Peak, Canadian Rockies. Yvon Chouinard and I climbed the southernmost of two 800-foot ice gullies on the east face of Narao Peak, south of Kicking Horse Pass.Peter T. Carman

Aconcagua, Attempt by Blind Climber. In December, Erik Weihenmayer, a blind climber, made an attempt of Aconcagua by the normal route, reaching 1,500 feet shy of the summit with guides and a film crew. We went for the summit on our 17th day on the...

Mount Deborah, Attempt on East Buttress. (This extraordinarily difficult climb was also attempted in 1964 by a group from the Harvard Mountaineering Club. See A.A.J., 1965, 14:2, pp. 405-6—Editor.) Our expedition got off to a poor start with the l...

Northern Rockies Section. The Northern Rockies Section started out the year with its 2nd annual Sun Valley Dinner on January 7 at The Cellars Pub. Jamie Laidlaw, a Hans Sari Grant Recipient, presented a show of his most recent exploratory trip to ...

Grosshorn, North Face, Berneroberland. On September 2 and 3 Phillip Fanchon and I climbed the north face of the Grosshorn by a new route. We followed the Welzenbach route through the first rock band and then, instead of traversing left toward the ...

Alpamayo and Santa Cruz, New Routes. On June 15, Kenzo Suzuki (Japan) left Base Camp (4850m) at 11 p.m. and climbed the 1979 Tomo Cesen route on the southeast face of Alpamayo until he reached the Andes route. The next day, he climbed original gro...

Luyacpani, Cordillera Blanca. The Harvard students, John Terborgh and Jared Diamond, with the Peruvian porter Augusto Jamanca, on July 9 made the first ascent of Luyacpani (18,045 feet). This mountain, which they approached from the Quebrada Quesh...

Mount Everest, New Route on Southwest Face. The objective of the expedition was to climb Mount Everest by a new route on the southwest face to the left of the Bonington Couloir. The expedition consisted of 25 members: 17 climbers, camera crew, a d...

Ruth Glacier, Peak 10,370'; Peak 11,300' attempt; Moose’s Tooth, Shaken Not Stirred. On May 15 Jared Ogden and I were dropped by Talkeetna Air Taxi on the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier. Our plan was to try the east face of Mt. Huntington, but the ...

Attempt on Tirich Mir from Southwest. Tatsuyuki Okamoto, leader, Masataka Suzuki and Hirobumi Wada left Chitral on June 28 and made Base Camp at 14,100 feet on the moraine of the Dir Gol on July 2. Thinking the danger at the beginning of the buttr...

Bandako. The (Austrian) Eisenerz Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Johann Seitner and composed of Adolf Huber, Horst Loder, and Helmut Woger. On July 8 Huber, Loder and Seidner climbed Bandako (22,- 450 feet), the third ascent. On the 12th all clim...