FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HAT Washington, Goode Mountain, Northeast ButtressOn September 13, 1991, Robert Nelson (41)—leader, Mitch Miller (18), Tim Hartman (40), and Randall Keys (47) bivouacked at 6,000 feet below the...

FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVERED BY CARABINERKentucky, Red River Gorge, Midnight Surf WallIn early September, an experienced climber (age unknown) on Tape Worm (5.12d) took a lead fall from a point between the first and second bolt. His rope ran from hi...

Ragged Peak, East Ridge. In July, 1995, Ian MacRac and I walked up Glacier Creek to the Muldrow Moraine to climb the east ridge of Ragged Peak. Six hundred feet of 40 to 60° ice led up to an easy ridge walk to the summit.Jeff apple Benowitz, unaff...

PULMONARY EDEMA—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Charles Gasser (20) was part of a six-person expedition ascending Mount McKinley via the Muldrow Glacier route. They began their climb from Kantishna on April 22, 1976. At 7 a.m. on May 18, Gasser began showin...

RAPPEL ERROR—FAILED TO THREAD ROTH ROPES THROUGH FRICTION DEVICE, NO RELAYArizona, Cochise StrongholdOn October 28, John Payne, Jr., Mark Plassman, and Bruce McKenzie set off for “What’s My Line,” a three-pitch 5.6 in Cochise Stronghold. The trio ...

Deborah, West Face Direct. A new route on Deborah, first pioneered by Omar Hansen and Chris McClaine, was completed by Barry Wisdom and me in mid May. From our high camp at the base of the face, the summit bid took 22 hours in poor weather. There ...

LOST, CLIMBING ALONE, HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Columbia Icefield, Mount AthabascaOn Sept. 26, a lone climber took out a safety registration for a climb of Mount Athabasca, with a return time of 1200 the next day indicated...

Tukuche. A Japanese expedition of four climbed Tukuche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet) by the northwest ridge. On October 7, leader Shingoro Tamai, Miss Mariko Arimoto and Danu Sherpa reached the summit.Elizabeth Hawley

Peak 6,400m (Miandi Peak), first ascent; Kharchakund, attempt; Yeonbuk (5,953m), attempt. On October 5 Bruce Norman, from Scotland, and I made what may be a first ascent of a 6,400m peak in the Garwhal region. The ascent was the culmination of a p...

Coast Range, British Columbia. On 22 July 1947, in the Mt. Waddington-Tiedemann district of western British Columbia, Charles Shiverick, of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, lost his life in a snow avalanche on the highest peak of Mt. Serra, at abo...

Sloan Peak, Northwest Buttress. In late September 2000 Mike Preiss and I completed what we suspect is a new route on Sloan Peak. The Northwest Buttress (IV 5.8 A0) starts at the lowest rock on the far left side of the broad west face and ascends t...

SLIP ON SNOW AND ICE, FAULTY (NO) USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mt. St. HelensAbout 3 p.m. on March 8, 1980, Seattle MRC members Paul Helmcke and Joe Kassuba were descending the Dogs Head route on Mt. St. Helens after a successful climb. As they desc...

Yigong Tsangpo, Shashim Valley, reconnaissance. In November Stuart Holmes and I made a further exploratory sortie into the Nyanchen Tanglha East. The original plan, to reconnoiter the valleys south of Niwu, in the heart of the main chain, rapidly ...

Indian Creek Area of Canyonlands. Jeff Widen and Dawn Burke made the first ascent of the Mayes (I, 5.10b). The route, on the Wingate walls 3/4 mile north of Supercrack, is a short, widening crack just right of a large, right-facing dihedral. The s...

FROSTBITE, DEHYDRATIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn July 19, 1982, three members of the Longside Mountaineering Club, Robin Clothier (26), John Murphy (20) and Alister Cain, flew into Kahiltna Base Camp to climb the Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley.The g...

Mt. Moffit, Entropy Wall. In the Eastern Hayes Range, from July 10-13, Jed Brown and Colin Haley established the Entropy Wall (2,300m, VI 5.9 A2 WI4+) on Mt. Moffit (3,969m). Their route ascends Moffit’s north face, one of the largest faces in Nor...

AVALANCHE, HYPOTHERMIAAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade WaterfallOn February 4, 1984, two climbers completed without incident an ascent of Cascade Waterfall, a popular Grade III ice climb near Banff. They then decided to continue 200 meters furthe...

Kun, West Face. After an unsuccessful attempt to climb the west face of Kun in 1979, Kunihiko Kondo returned to complete the ascent. The expedition approached via the Parktik Glacier. It took 12 days from Base Camp to reach and carry loads to the ...

British Columbia, new ice routes. A few interesting new ice routes were unearthed on the B.C. coast over the past couple of seasons. First up was Rhapsody in Floyd (8 pitches, WI4, Chris Christie and I, March 2008) and Free Tibet! (9 pitches, WI5 ...

SLIP ON SNOW, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HAT, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Base of Mount RobsonOn May 23, M.S. and D.B. were camping at the Kinney Lake Campground. M.S. told D.B...