LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE INSTRUCTION AND SUPERVISION, POOR POSITIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Andrews GlacierOn June 14 at 1300, Mike Hill was leading a group of 25 to 30 juveniles from River Valley High School, ...
Ama Dablam. In March and April, Irish climbers comprising Cornelius Moriarty, Ciaran Corrigan, Pat Falvey, Tony Farrell, Mick Murphy and Mike O’Shea were on the southwest ridge of Ama Dablam. They had bad weather and several of the party were inca...
Yale Mountaineering Club. The activities of the YMC during 1957 were carried out largely in familiar areas. Members visited Mount Washington in the spring for ice climbing. In March, Eric Cheney, Pete Lipman, Charlie Sawyer, Chad Dilley, and Charl...
This, the eighth annual report, deals with the accidents that occurred in 1954. In addition two accidents that occurred in 1953 are reported which had not been previously reported to the committee. The statistics for 1953 have therefore been corre...
HAPE, FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 24, 1992, Daryl Hinman (44), Tom Roseman (42) and Bob Rockwell (56)— members of the China Lake (CA) Mountain Rescue Group—started out from Kantishna to do a traverse of ...
Peak Kezi-Sel, Traverse, and Jamanjar, Attempt. After 14 days’ acclimatization in Kyrgyzstan in the Kichik Alai and Alai ranges, Andrei Lebedev (leader), Ilia Guerov, Boris Malakhov, Piotr Rykalov, and I (assistant leader) began our expedition to ...
Solu Towers, attempt; Female Peak (Peak 5,290m), first ascent. The objective of this expedition was to climb one of the Solu Towers (ca 6,000m), situated above Snow Lake in the glacial heart of the Karakoram. The expedition included six women betw...
This is the forty-eighth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the seventeenth that has been done jointly between The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: We are pleased to report a slight subsidence of acci...
The August Catastrophe on K2H. Adams CarterTHE YEAR 1986 was a tragic one in the great mountains. It was not an influx of inexperienced mountaineers innocently straying into situations which were beyond their capacities. A shocking number of the w...
Gaugiri, first ascent. Jim Frush (then-president of the AAC) and I went exploring for an obscure 6,110m (20,046') peak called Gaugiri, which is in the Upper Mustang district northeast of the Annapurna massif on the Tibetan border.We had an idea of...
Latok I North Ridge Attempt. Our objective was to make the first ascent, alpine-style, of the 2500-meter-high north ridge of Latok I (7145 meters, 23,452 feet), so nearly climbed in 1978 by Jim Donini, Mike Kennedy, Jeff Lowe and George Lowe. (See...
Pukajirka CentralLeigh N. OrtenburgerTHE Cordillera Blanca continues to attract climbers from all nations of the world. On this, my seventh trip to this splendid range, I was impressed by the progressive changes in the region, while the peaks are ...
From 2007-2010 there were four ascents of Noshaq, the highest mountain in Afghanistan and second highest in the Hindu Kush. In the autumn of 2007 Iranians Mehdi Amidi and Azim Qeychi-Saz became only the second group of climbers to reach the summit...
Northwest Face of Kichatna SpireJames D. Bridwell and Andrew Embick, M.D.EMBICK: FIXATION IS NOT logical or rational but mine had grown stronger over almost two years, for an ice-encrusted, storm-beset granite tooth in the Alaska Range. The entice...
Shingu Charpa, north ridge, attempts and deception. In July, sitting in the gorgeous Nangma Valley base camp, I hacked up nasty chunks of something laced with blood, stricken with who-knows-what. My ultra-strong and ultra-capable partner, Josh Wha...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCEDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount TeewinotOn July 10, 1992, at 1050, a victim slipped and fell while attempting an ascent of the east face of Teewinot. She and her partner were at the 11,80...
Gaurishankar’s West FaceWyman CulbrethFROM A DUSTY bus window I watched the landscape pass by, then turned to see the Sherpas fast asleep. They were understandably tired from the last few weeks of hectic preparation; we were all relieved finally t...
CHARLES “CHUCK” WADE COMSTOCK1960-2000Let’s just split right here, Roman. I got a stove and a cook pot, you got a stove and a cook pot. We both got shovels...just take your rope and we’ll go our separate ways!”We stood on the edge, double nines fl...
The Mount Everest MapsIn the November 1988 issue of the National Geographic the most accurate map of Mount Everest (1:50,000) ever produced was published as a supplement. Also, in that same issue the map was described in an article “Surveying the ...
Early Days in the Canadian RockiesWalter D. WilcoxIT is strange how some impressions retain their vivid and beauti- ful character throughout one’s life, while others that might seem of equal interest pass from memory all too soon. I can never forg...