Thunder Mountain, Walk of the Schnitzelkings. On April 6, 1999, German climbers Christoph Duepper and Thomas Traxler climbed the right-hand fork of the split couloir to the right (east) of the central spur—the Lightning Spur—on Thunder Mountain’s ...
Saraghrar, Central Peak. In the A.A.J., 1968, 16:1, p. 223 was reported the ascent of Saraghrar North (23,097 feet) on July 27, 1967. It should also have been noted that the Japanese climbers, Kohichiro Umezu and Shiro Yokoyama continued on to mak...
Bandako. An expedition sponsored by the city of Turin was composed of Andrea Mellano, Romano Perego, Pierfranco Giraudi and Riccardo Varvelli. On July 25 Mellano and Perago made the fourth ascent of Bandako (22,450 feet) by a new route, the north ...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison. On the Cimarron Slabs, Patrick Griffin, Udom Likhitwonnawut and I climbed a clean and enjoyable route, Wonderland (III, 5.8), which consisted mostly of face climbing and low-angled finger-cracks. Several bolts were pl...
FALL ON ROCK-INADEQUATE BELAY WHILE LOWERINGUtah, American Forks Canyon, RockapellaOn June 1, Aaron Johnson (17) was being lowered from Rockappella, but his partner could not hold him. The rope started pulling her up. Another young woman grabbed o...
Umiamakut Nunat Region, West Greenland. Elio Scarabelli, Riccardo Soresini, Marco Zappa and I as leader left Como on July 6, traveling via Milan and Copenhagen to Sondre Stromfjord by air, to Egedesminde by helicopter and to Umanak by boat. There ...
Traverse from San Juan to the North Col of Cayesh. Italians Paola Gigliotti and Massimo Marchini made an interesting traverse in June from the summit of San Juan, over the top of Maparaju to bivouac in the col between Maparaju and Milpocraju. On t...
Mount Logan. On June 10 Bruce Gilbert, Paul Swift, Dick Folta and I were landed at about 8900 feet on the Quintino Sella Glacier. By June 16 Camp IV A was established in the séracs above King Col. However, our push toward the plateau on June 18 wa...
Kaskawulsh/Hubbard divide area, various ascents. After waiting five days for suitable weather to fly, Andy Williams put Jean Boyd, Cathryn and Nigel Wallis, and I down on July 1 at a superb “photo opportunity” location 10½ km north of Mt. Queen Ma...
Sierra Club. Probably one of the most important mountaineering events to occur in the Sierra Club happened at the administrative level with the appointment of Nick Clinch as the new Mountaineering Committee Chairman. Nick, who comes to this positi...
Ganalo Peak Attempt. Ganalo Peak (6606 meters, 21,664 feet) flanks Nanga Parbat on the northwest. We had access to it from the Diamir side, placing Base Camp at 13,775 feet on the moraine of the Diamir Glacier. We were Emilio Hernando, Jesus Gomez...
Oregon: Mt. McLaughlin (9940 ft.). On 30 July 1949 Ed Freuer, a Henley High school graduate of a few weeks before, slipped and plunged over a cliff. The state of his injuries has not been subsequently reported. His companion, Glen Hillyard, came d...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 20 August Ronald Guest (21), Pierre Zetterberg (21), and Tom Rack (21) decided to climb a seemingly moderate wall between Murphy Dome and Fairview Dome near Tenaya Lake. There were no pre-established routes o...
Ama Dablam Attempt. A five-man French team led by Michel Pelle reached 19,000 feet on April 5, four days after having reached Base Camp and having placed Camp II at that height. They learned that an American expedition had arrived with a permit fo...
Ascents in McKinley Park. As seasonal ranger, I took part in various climbs, many unsuccessful, in what proved to be a wet summer. In late June John Bryant and I climbed the west face of Fang Mountain (6736 feet) in marginal weather. We approached...
Mount St. Elias as a Coastal Peak. Mount St. Elias (5489 meters, 18,008 feet) is much nearer the ocean than before. The Tyndall Glacier has retreated into a newly created fjord and tidewater is only twelve miles from the summit of St. Elias. The g...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Freshfield GlacierOn the afternoon of March 29, 1989, four ski tourers were descending the Freshfield Glacier unroped when one of them fell into a crevasse. The others cli...
Tukche. A huge Royal Nepalese Army expedition led by Lieutenant Colonel Bhagrinath Narsingh Rana had 71 members of whom 50 went above Base Camp. They climbed the northwest face, possibly a new route, and placed one camp above Base Camp. On October...
Kohe Hevad, Kunkho-i-Kuchek, Kohe Bakhera, Ishmurgh Valley. Walter Giger, leader, Alfred and Hansruedi Koelz, Arnold Frauenfelder, Roman Boutellier, Jürg Reinhard, Hansjürg Wetter and I traveled to Kabul overland and by truck to Ishmurgh. We estab...
K2, South-Southwest Buttress Attempt. Our objective was the south- southwest buttress of K2, first climbed by Poles in 1986. We were Stane Belak, Dr. Damjan Meško, Milan Romih, Slavko Sveticic, Andrej Štremfelj, Filip Bence, Rado Fabjan, Pavle Koz...