"To our predecessors on K2, upon whose shoulders we climbed." Louis F. Reichardt SITUATED in remote splendor at the upper end of the Baltoro Glacier, K2, second highest peak in the world, has always dominated the imaginations of mountaineers. N...
Southern Summer Climbing Season in Patagonia, 1987-8. Just a few days ago (written on February 19, 1988), Sebastián de la Cruz returned from the South. He climbed Cerro Torre with Spaniards Ramón Portillo and Antonio Trabado from the snow cave at ...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers, with nearly 15,000 members, is based in Seattle with branches in Bellingham, Everett, Olympia and Tacoma, Washington. The club offers more than 1,000 trips each year in over 20 different outdoor activities, whil...
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) summary. The year 2002 was great for alpine climbing in the coastal mountains of British Columbia. Activity was particularly intense in the southwest corner of the provinc...
Cerro Dos Cumbres, New Route. Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland), and Michael Wärthl andTom Dauer (both from Germany) teamed up in November to visit the Cordón Mariano Moreno, a mountain range situated in the middle of Patagonia’s Hielo Continental Su...
Clarence King: A Biography, by Thurman Wilkins. New York: The Macmillan Company, 1958. ix, 441 pages; ills. Price $7.50.Clarence King was one of the pioneers of American mountaineering, and as such deserves a proper place in our annals. He climbed...
On July 29, Tony McLane and I flew in to the Plummer Hut in the Waddington Range, and that afternoon we dropped to the Tiedemann Glacier and a bivy at Sunny Knob. The next morning, we negotiated the glacier below the southwest face of Asperity ...
Cayangate, Satan’s Legs; Nevado Chumpe, Three Chumps on Chumpe. On June 11 Mark Hesse, Chris Alstrin, and I walked into the Cordillera Vilcanota. Within the first week we climbed the northwest face of Nevado Chumpe (6,106m; a.k.a. Jatunriti), desc...
Shivling. An Indian Army expedition went to Shivling to prepare climbers for their expedition to Mount Everest. This large group was led by Major Kiran I. Kumar and Colonel Tankha. They placed Base Camp on the Meru Glacier at the end of March. The...
Number ofTotalAccidents ReportedPersons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN19511522113195231351713195324271212195431413181955343928619564672541319574553281819583239231119594225623101921960474641237819419614996114451014419627119016401...
Southern Rock. Chris Hall. East Woods Press, Charlotte, North Carolina, 1981. 143 pages, black and white photographs, maps, diagrams. $7.95.To call a climber’s guidebook Southern Rock and to cover the rock climbs in a five-state area, one would ex...
From February 16 to March 3, 2009, Benno Wagner, Markus Kautz, Paul Sass, and I, all German, visited these remote mountains in Los Glaciares National Park, southwest of Lago Viedma. We entered the area at Estancia Helsingfors, a 4-5 hour drive ...
IMPROPER DECISION–FAILURE TO TURN BACK, FATIGUE, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE Oregon, Mount HoodEarly on the morning of May 12,1986, a party of 20 from the Oregon Episcopal School left Timberline Lo...
Cerro Castillo, Southeast Face. Eduardo Mondragón (España), Pablo Crovetto (Chile) and I, Rodrigo Fica (Chile), climbed the Southeast Face (650m, D+/TD-, 55° average, with a few 70° –80° sections) of Cerro Castillo (2,675m). The route had been unr...
A.A.C. and C.M.C. Joint Outing, Needle Mountains, Colorado, July 19—August 9, 1953. The Needle Mountains form a small part of the mass of mountains in the southwest quarter of Colorado, generally called the San Juans. They are located on the east ...
Tsendakang. Our members were Hiroshi Kodama, Kosuke Honma, Ryoji Takahashi, Takeharu Shumiya and I as leader. After an approach from Thimpu, which began on October 12, we arrived at Base Camp at 4700 meters on October 20 on the south side of Tsend...
FALL ON ICE, CAUGHT OFF GUARD—POST CLIMB California, Mount DanaOn October 9, 1988, Steve Letts (40) fell about 150 meters after he had just unroped from his climbing partner, Richard Hasbrouck. They had descended the 40 degree slope and were stand...
Mount Steele, East Ridge. In early July, a party of six Canadians, Bruce Fairley, Neil Humphrey, Heidi Piltz, Eric White, Ellen Wood and I, helicoptered to 7500 feet on the Steele Glacier below the east ridge, which we climbed over the next couple...
No Picnic on Kenya, by Felice Benuzzi. viii + 238 pages, with sketches and end-paper sketch map. New York: E. P. Dutton & Company, Inc., 1953.Fuga sul Kenya and Kenya, ou La Fugue Africaine, the titles of the original Italian edition and the F...
Vinson, summary, record numbers and new route. Over 120 people attempted Vinson Massif this season, far surpassing the previous record of 78 attempts set in 2000-01. This year only two people failed to summit, giving a success rate of nearly 99%. ...