Mountain Operations. Department of the Army; FM 31-72. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1959. Order Number D 101.20:31-72. 238 pages, sketches. Price 65 cents.Although designed primarily for the handling of mountain troops, this little book...
“Kammerlander” and “Water Music,” Fresno Dome. Ruprecht Kammerlander and I made two new routes on Fresno Dome on August 14 and 15, neither of which represents the culmination of Ruprecht’s climbing, yet they were his last first ascents before his ...
Hallucinogen Wall, Solo Ascent. It was reported that Amanda Tarr soloed the Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison over five days in June. This was the first female solo of the route. (Climbing 171)
Chief s Head, Northeast Face, Glacier Gorge, Rocky Mountain National Park. Bob Bradley and I made the first ascent of this beautiful face in August, 1963, in part of two days. From the middle of the wall’s base we climbed a steep slab and belayed ...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKS, CLIMBING ALONE Oregon, Mount JeffersonOn July 28, 1994, Larry Hermens (16) left Jefferson Park for a solo climb of a north side route of Mount Jefferson. On the 29th, Mr. Hermens failed to return, and a search was begu...
Mount Friga, West Face, and “Watchtower,” Northwest Ridge, Baffin Island. In July and August, 1976, Phil Bartlett and I made numerous ascents, including two new ascents. “The Watchtower,” as we christened the peak, is a rock tower (c. 5500 feet) w...
Mexican Mountain Area, Lone Rock, South Face. We had long had our eyes on the prominent right-facing dihedral system working its way up the south face of Lone Rock. Despite Eric’s guidebook and all the hoopla about it, the tower known as Lone Rock...
Mount Baker, North Ridge Variant. Norm Brones, Jim Corbin, Vinny Perrone and I on June 2 and 3 did a variant on Beckey’s route on Mount Baker’s north ridge. Upon reaching the ice steps at 9600 feet we traversed far to the right for some 150 yards ...
Mount Moran, Pika Buttress. Between the northeast and north ridges of Moran are two prominent gullies separated by this buttress. Both the gullies and the buttress terminate at the north ridge short of the north summit. The first ascent of Pike Bu...
Unnamed Peak Attempt, Khumbu Region. In the last week of November 1994, Jeff Singer and Clay Patton of Durango, Colorado attempted an unclimbed peak in the Khumbu Region of Nepal. The peak is located just north of Renjo La and northwest of the tow...
Yosemite Point, East Face. Over the Memorial Day weekend, T. M. Herbert and I completed the first ascent of the east face of Yosemite Point. The route starts about 300 feet right of the regular Yosemite Point Buttress route. At the end of the firs...
This is the sixteenth report of the Safety Committee and the third in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. This year a further addition is being made by the addition of reports on selected rescue operations. A coordinated program with the M...
Mount Athabaska, Canadian Rockies. In August, Francois Plenier, Yvon Chouinard and I made a new route on the north face of Athabaska, roping up below the gully and climbing through the rock band, without cutting steps.Peter T. Carman
Aconcagua ’s Centennial, Aconcagua Mummy Disagreement and the Gendarmeria Nacional Rescue Team. Aconcagua was first ascended by Mathias Zurbriggen on January 14, 1897. On the centennial of the first ascent, many climbers from throughout the world ...
P 9623, Alaska Range. Steve Anderson, John Pinamont, Barb and Gerry Roach and I, from Boulder, Colorado, packed over Oaster Pass, across the Muldrow Glacier to the Brooks Glacier. Time was too short for our initial objective, Silverthrone, and so ...
Southwest Section. We had three events in 2010, finishing strongly with a successful winter dinner after a climbing day in April at Malibu and a bit of climbing in Palos Verdes. On April 17 six climbers met at Malibu Creek State Park and hiked to ...
Castillo del Paine. An expedition from the town of Rengo in central Chile made on January 27 the first ascent of a fine rock peak (c. 2400 meters, 7874 feet), belonging to the Cordón Olguín, north of the Paine massif. The group was formed by F. Ar...
Milesky Wall, Rest Day alla Pagoda. In January, Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni and Marco Curti, all from Trento, Italy, established a new route, Rest Day alia Pagoda (7c+) in the Milesky Wall sector in three days. The route has six pitches which ran...
Urus Oeste, Cordillera Blanca. A Swiss expedition from Lausanne, made up of Georges de Rham, Gilbert Apothéloz, Daniel Bach, Jean Jacques Fatton, Carlo Jaquet and Albert Besanges, made the first ascent of Urus Oeste (17,717 feet) on July 26. They ...
Nuptse Attempt. Hans-Burkhard Nix led an unsuccessful German attempt on the north face of Nuptse; they had hoped to repeat the Doug Scott route. They arrived late in the post-monsoon season and gave up after twelve days at 21,325 feet before reach...