New Climbs in the Bailey Range. Two parties climbed in this seldom visited range in 1961, and though records are incomplete the following climbs appear to be first ascents:Mount Childs (6205 feet) is located a mile north-northeast of Bear Pass. Th...
A New Route on the North Face of Mount TempleHENRY L. ABRONSEVER since the Sourdoughs lugged afourteen-foot pole from Fairbanks to the North Peak of McKinley, climbers have adopted the custom of beginning their adventures in barrooms. Out of respe...
Ghost RidersJack Lewis, UnaffiliatedTOM BAUMAN AND I WOVE through the high desert shrubbery with pointed caution, making our way back down into Black Velvet Canyon. Occasionally the distant glitzy city of Lost Wages would catch our eye and interru...
Polly Prescott 1902-2003Polly Prescott’s climbing career began in 1922 when she climbed Mt. Rainier as the climax of a Vassar College geology field trip. Her love of the mountains continued all her life. She spent over 40 seasons climbing and hiki...
Lightning StrikeThe first ascent of the north face of Arwa Tower in India.Stephan SiegristMick Fowler and Steve Sustad were the first foreign mountaineers to see Arwa Tower, hidden between two lines of ridges above the remote Arwa Valley, in a res...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. The Section was active in many mountain-related activities this fall. The Friends of Silcox Hut have been negotiating with the Timberline Lodge to obtain better access for individuals climbing Mount Hood. Neil Cramer, Steve...
Mount Fairweather ConqueredAS we go to press, comes the splendid news of the first ascent of Mount Fairweather (15,399 ft.) by the American Alpine Club expedition on June 8, 1931, two months after reaching Lituya Bay (which is within twenty miles...
Capitol Peak, Elk Range. On July 21 David Michael, Michael Cohen and I climbed a pleasant route on the northwest face and north-northwest ridge of Capitol Peak (14,100 feet), about 1800 feet of sustained but mostly not difficult climbing on genera...
Cordillera Carabaya. The Kempten, Allgäu Expedition was composed of Dr. Fritz März, leader, Adolf Kling, Wolfgang Reichhardt and me. We explored in the Cordillera Carabaya, although it is difficult to know where that Cordillera and the Cordillera ...
The North Face of Mount KitchenerCHRISTOPHER A. G. JONES“IT looks bad … it’s a steep mother”. “Yeah, you won’t catch this baby up there”.Chouinard, Faint and I scratched ourselves, shook our heads knowingly, got back in the old Chevy and headed up...
SLIP ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, UNROPED, POOR POSITION, INSTRUCTOR NOT FAMILIAR WITH ROUTEWashington, North Cascades, Saska PeakWhile participating in a climb of Saska Peak on Day 17 of a Pacific Crest Outward Bound sea/mountain course, a fema...
As the first crimson rays of dawn crept under a thin veneer of clouds marking the next oncoming front, Jim Bridwell and I hesitantly plowed through hip-deep snow up the glacier towards our 1500-feet of fixed rope. Small powder avalanches turned ...
Three Cups of Tea: One Man's Mission to Fight Terrorism and Build Nations-One School at a Time, Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin. New York: Penguin, 2006. Black AND WHITE PHOTOS. 338 PAGES. $25.95.Three Cups of Tea tells the compelling story ...
Peak 13,790' (Mt. Andrews), Going Monk. On May 30 Jonny Copp and I climbed a new route on Peak 13,790' (as marked on the Mt. McKinley A-3 quad map), located on the south side of the East Fork Kahiltna Glacier; this is the last peak at the southeas...
Cordillera Yucay. An Italian Expedition from Biella climbed in the Cordillera Yucay, above Paucartambo and near Cuzco, which they approached via the Lluaumarca and Yonacocha passes. Led by Fulvio Ratto, they were Guido Machetto, Franco Riva, Bruno...
NORMAN R. STREATFEILDLong before the Club’s 1938 K2 expedition left this country, its members asked the British government to lend Captain Streatfeild —the wiry Scot who had done such splendid work as liaison officer of the French expedition to Hi...
A WEEK BEFORE WE LEFT, I called a friend in Iqaluit and he advised, “This is the worst ice year in several decades. I don’t know how you are going to get into Sam Ford Fiord. You should have come last year. Or maybe try next year.” But there was n...
Mountaineering, edited by Sydney Spencer. Contributions by twenty-two authorities. The Lonsdale Library, vol. xviii. 386 pages, 130 illustrations, 9 maps and index. London. Seeley, Service & Co., 1934. Price 21s.This is one of those rare books...
Mounts Steele, Wood and Walsh and Other Climbs Made from the General Camp of the Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition. Of the peaks climbed by the expedition in or on the Steele valley watershed, only Steele and Wood have official names. Mount Walsh...
CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, HEAVY SNOWFALLColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn February 13, 1983, Rudi Moder (27) departed the Zimmerman Lake trailhead on Colorado Highway 14 near Cameron Pass for a two- to three-night solo ski mount...