A Woman’s Place is On TopSelected highlights in womens alpinism.Molly Loomis1808: 18-year-old Marie Paradis (France) becomes the first woman to summit Mont Blanc (15,771').1867: Frances Case and Mary Robinson make the first women’s ascent of Mt. H...

BILL MARCH1941-1990Bill March died on September 8. He was recognized internationally for his bold mountain climbing accomplishments in Scotland, Canada, South America and the USA. He also contributed much to the literature of the sport, including ...

Masherbrum—1960William UnsoeldThanks to three previous attempts made upon it, Masherbrum was an extremely well-scouted objective when our party approached it in May of 1960. As early as 1938 a British party led by James Waller had reached a point ...

Rocky Mountains: Elevations in the Maligne Lake Area. A new edition (1942) of the Jasper Park South Sheet (3 mi. to 1 in.) is now available, with the notable addition of contours and elevations E. and N. of Maligne Pass to the park boundary and th...

Tenaya Canyon, New Route. While some Club members are painting their names across the skies above the world’s great mountain ranges, others toil in obscurity among the well-worn furrows of our home ranges. Thus my partner Tim Laidman and I happene...

LOUIS L. BERGMANN1907-1992Louis M. Bergmann, M.D., a member of the American Alpine Club since 1949, passed away after a long illness on January 4, 1992 in his 84th year. Bom in Austria, he received his medical degree from the University of Vienna ...

Jannu, Southwest Ridge. Our expedition, Dr. Laurenc Dívald, Daniel Bakoš, Robert Gálfy (son of the leader of our joint Kanchenjunga expedition), Oto Chudý, Ludovít Chrenka, Jidro Martiš, Ján Špánik, Ivan Vozárik and I as leader, made a new route o...

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, ILLNESSWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn June 25 at 1300, Exum Guide Jim Kanzler reported to park dispatch via cellular phone an accident in Garnet Canyon. According to Kanlzer, Paul Newman (38)...

A McKinley Traverse via Reality RidgePeter MetcalfVISIONS of spectacular mountain spires, steep clean ice, Yosemite-like granite and new routes in an alpine setting filled my mind as I started planning another Alaskan expedition. The south side of...

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, ROCK FLAKE (HANDHOLD) CAME OUT, STRANDEDIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Various RoutesThere were six climbing incidents reported from this area. Five involved falls from routes, and in three of ...

NATHANIEL LEWIS GOODRICH(1880-1957)Mr. Goodrich was born in Concord, N. H., February 9, 1880 and died in Boston, April 30, 1957. He was the son of Arthur Lewis and Mary (Bachelder) Goodrich. On July 30, 1908 he married Alice Lyman, who survives hi...

Kangchenjunga, North Face. Kike de Pablo, Juanito Oiarzabal, Alberto Iñurrategi and Félix Iñurrategi arrived at BC on April 1. We worked on establishing the route the first two weeks of April, putting up Cl at 5800 meters on April 7 and CII at 680...

Alaska, Kenai Range, Mt. Alice. John Vincent Hoeman, David Perry Johnston, Don Stockard, Mike Campbell, and Dennis W. Hitt, at 0630 on 1 July drove around the head of Resurrection Bay as near as they could to the base of Mt. Alice. Hitt had trappe...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Bestowal CrackMy son Chris (17), our friend Eric (17), and I traveled to Eldorado Canyon for guided climbing July 5th. After completing Bestowal Crack, we were in the process of walking...

El Capitan’s Nose Climbed FreeLynn HillBy THE TIME THE CROATIAN TEAM had passed us, I noticed shadows of the trees stretching long across the meadow of the Valley floor below. I decided to stop trying to optimize further the crux moves under the r...

Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula and Sanderson’s Hope, Tilman-Style. Reverend Bob Shepton (Skipper and leader), Brian Newham (Mate), Danuska Rycerz, Steve Marshall and Annie Wilson left Britain on June 18 and sailed to the west coast of Greenland in a 33...

Gunnsbjørnsfjeld. Our expedition made the third ascent of Gunnsbjørnsfjeld, Greenland’s highest mountain, on August 8. It lies in the Watkins Mountains of East Greenland, north of Kangerlugssuaq Fjord. The peak was first climbed in 1935 by a party...

Gasherbrum I, Ascent and Tragedy. Spanish Climber Manuel Alvarez Diaz (38) perished after successfully scaling Gasherbrum I (8067 m) on July 17. According to sources, after reaching the summit on July 12 at 10:30 a.m., Diaz fell on the descent and...

THE DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI 1873-1933In the death of our Honorary Member, His Royal Highness Prince Luigi Amedeo Guiseppe Maria Ferdinando Francisco di Savoia-Aosta, Duke of the Abruzzi, one of the most romantic figures of our times has been lost, not...

Huandoy Group, Various Ascents and Descents. In June, Stephen Koch, Kris Erickson, Chris Trimble, Nat Patridge, Rob Buchanan, and I established Base Camp at an aqua blue lake near the toe of a glacier on the north side of the Huandoy group, one of...