Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan

Mount Logan. Three Canadian parties climbed Mount Logan. David Hughes, Robert Kandiko, Jim Allen, Paul Starr, Tim Ryan, Douglas Herchmer and Nichol Ross climbed the Catenary Ridge. Douglas Dalquist, Michael Strong, Brian Maclean and Kelley Kissock...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, East Buttress of Bridalveil Fall

East Buttress of Bridalveil Fall: On September 14, T. M. Herbert and I made the first ascent of a thin, esthetic buttress just east of Bridalveil Fall. The route consists of 5 pitches and took about 6½ hours. The first three pitches are direct aid...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Fang

Fang. The Fang (7647 meters, 25,090 feet) is a sharp rock-and-ice tooth crowning three jagged ridges and sérac-covered faces, southwest of Annapurna I. Its south face rises steeply some 16,000 feet. The highest still unclimbed summit in Nepal, it ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Hayden

Mount Hayden. Near South Twin Sister and climbed by the southwest side.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna South or Moditse

Annapurna South or Moditse. The expedition of 15 climbers was led by Jerzy Pietkiewicz. They were very keen and determined but sadly lacking in high-mountain experience. On April 15 the main party arrived at Base Camp, which had been set up by an ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Mt. Everest, North Face, Variation

Mt. Everest, North Face, Variation. A Russian expedition led by Kazbek Khamitasayev ascended what they said was an unclimbed rib on the north face to an altitude of perhaps 7500 meters before abandoning that line and traversing left to the standar...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Torre Norte del Paine, Solo, 1985

Torre Norte del Paine, Solo, 1985. Italian Elio Orlandi climbed the North Paine Tower solo on December 29, 1985. He was accompanied to Base Camp by Nora Rigotti. On December 28 he approached the western foot of the three towers, where he bivouacke...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju Este Attempt, Cordillera Blanca and Peaks in Cordillera Raura and Yauyos

Chacraraju Este Attempt, Cordillera Blanca and Peaks in Cordilleras Raura and Yauyos. The Kanazawa University Alpine Club expedition was composed of Toshimitsu Wada, leader, Kazumasa Kawachi, Masando Tanaka, Kasumaza Kochi and three others. They f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Apolobamba

Cordillera Apolobamba. Solo, I did a short journey from Pelechuco into the Chaupi Orco basin, where on November 25, 1970 I climbed P 5230 (17,159 feet) from the north. This lies on the north ridge of Soral Oeste, north of P 5320 (on Melbourne’s ma...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Satopanth

Satopanth. Germans Viktor Stangassinger, Jürgen Grohall, leader Herbert Streibel, Sherpa Dorje and I reached the summit of Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) by the northeast ridge on June 16.Cestmir Lukeš, Czechoslovakian living in Switzerland


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Aconcagua, 2003-2004 Season Overview

Aconcagua, 2003-2004 season overview. This season Aconcagua beat its record for visitation. The estimated number of people in Aconcagua Provincial Park was 7,000 (87% foreign, 13% Argentineans) for the season (November 15, 2003 to March 15, 2004),...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tapadan Sar

Tapadan Sar. In June, Phil Bartlett and I visited the Morkhun valley in the northwest Karakoram and made several spirited attempts on the north face of Jur Jur Khona Sar, a tricky 6000er of easy access from the Karakoram Highway. In excessive heat...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Manda II, Second Ascent and New Route

Manda II, second ascent and new route. The climbing history of the Manda group is surprisingly short. Until 2001 Manda II (the highest summit, 6568m) had been climbed only once; from the west (Kedar Glacier) in 1982 by an American expedition, whic...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Satopanth

Satopanth. A Himalayan Association of Japan expedition with 14 members was led by Akinori Hosaka. Climbing the north ridge, Hosaka, Koji Sekine, Takahito Amagi, Wakio Okegawa and Fumiaki Goto got to the summit on August 9 and Kyoko Endo, Hiroko Hi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Hindu Kush, Mir Samir

Mir Samir. Polish climbers climbed Mir Samir (19,059 feet) by the northeast ridge. The climbers were M. Rusinowski, S. Bochenski and J. Szupinski; the date: August 17.Halina CIEPLINSKA-BoJORSKA, Klub Wysokogórski, Poland


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja de la S, Two Solo Routes, and Saint Exupéry Solo, 1994-95

Aguja de la S, Two Solo Routes, and Saint Exupéry Solo, 1994-95. I climbed solo two new routes on the Aguja de la S. [It is not clear on which face the climbs were made, but it is believed they were on the east face.—Editor.] Qui Se Souvient des H...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Concealed Crevasse—Washington, Mt. St. Helens

FALL INTO CONCEALED CREVASSE—Washington, Mt. St. Helens. On May 29 Professor John Patrick O’Shea (46) of Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon, was leading a group of students from his mountaineering class at OSU, in a climb to the top of Mt....


In Memoriam AAJ
Arnold Louis Mumm, 1859-1927

ARNOLD LOUIS MUMM 1859— 1927(Read at the Annual Meeting, January 19, 1929)Arnold Louis Mumm, an Honorary Member of this Club, whose father had what was once the creditable, but what has now become a doubtful, distinction of supplying an excellent ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Cerro Polleras, New Route

Cerro Polleras, New Route, Central Andes. This Himalayan-like mountain, on the Mendoza border with Chile, has not yet had a revised height. Estimates range from 6232 meters to 6295 meters; Chilean authority Dr. Evelio Echevarria states that it is ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Jammu, Winter Trek along the Zanskar River to Leh, Ladakh

Winter Trek along the Zanskar River to Leh, Ladakh. An Indo-British party co-led by Indian Mandip Singh Soin and Briton John Barry was flown to Padum in Zanskar on February 6 to begin their 120-kilometer trek down the frozen Zanskar River to near ...