Report of the Fourth International Congress of Alpinism in Cortina d’Ampezzo (Italy) September 9th to September 14th, 1933The Congress was opened on September 9th by S. E. Angelo Manaresi, President of the Italian Alpine Club and of the Fourth Int...
Shishapangma, southwest face, fast solo ascent and soloing/single-push history. It is easy to lose perspective in the Himalaya. Base camps bulge with expeditions, routes are choked with climbers and the once-pervasive feeling of isolation can be r...
Colorado, Cliff between Rollinsville and Pinecliff—On 9 February, Paul A. Murphy (21) with four companions began climbing a nearly vertical cliff about 100 feet high, ¾ mile northeast of Rollinsville. At a point 75 feet above the Denver and Rio Gr...
Kyashar (aka Peak 43, 6,770m), first official ascent. Climbing new routes in the Himalaya isn’t what it used to be. Nowadays you just surf two browsers from the security of your own internet connection: one of these is a search engine and the othe...
South Shukpa Kungchang Glacier, various ascents. In December 2009 Mark Richey e-mailed a photo of a beautiful gray granite rock peak he’d seen from base camp on an expedition to the Indian Karakoram. He was recruiting for another visit to the regi...
Shivling (6,543m), north face and northwest ridge. Well-acclimatized after their second ascent of Muztagh Ata’s southeast ridge, reported elsewhere in this Journal, Kazuya Hiraide (26) and Kei Taniguchi (33) arrived in Delhi on September 19 and by...
Arwa Tower (6,352m), north face, Lightning Strike. From May 31 to June 8, the team of Denis Burdet, Thomas Senf, and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascent of the north face of Arwa Tower (6,352m), via the route Lightning Strike (900m, VI M5 5.9 A...
ON 4 October 1947 the Council voted to form a committee to be called the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club. Its purpose is to investigate climbing accidents and to formulate a program of prevention for the future. It has been the initia...
K2 Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy. A large number of expeditions was active this year on K2. An expedition of Spanish Basques led by Juan Oiarzabal established Base Camp at 4950 meters at the foot of the mountain. They climbed the route pioneered b...
Silver Star Mountain, Gato Negro. On June 21, 2001 Larry Goldie and Scott Johnston, both of Mazama, WA, established a probable new route on the west face of Silver Star Mountain near Washington Pass in the North Cascades. The climb follows the lin...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCEVermont, Smugglers NotchOn August 1, 1980, two young men (ages 18 and 20) were climbing with no equipment on a face in Smugglers Notch. One of them fell while trying to descend to the other, wh...
Lungkar Shan, Tachab Kangri (6,704m), attempt. In August we visited the northern end of the Lungkar Shan in northwest Tibet.Our peak, Tachab Kangri, lies southeast of Marme village and Tsa Tso lake. Marme lies roughly 60km southwest of the county ...
Crow’s Head Spires. The Crow’s Head Spires, 250-foot towers of Wingate sandstone atop a Chinle sandstone base between Dead Horse Point State Park and the Island in the Sky of Canyonlands National Park, were climbed by Steve Wood, Robert Warren and...
FROSTBITE, BAD WEATHER, FAILURE TO CHECK FEETAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn Jiily 3, 1982, Miri Ercolani of Italy flew into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier (2000 meters) to start her solo climb on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley.After rea...
Gasherbrum II, Attempt. The seven member New England Expedition Team consisted of Maury McKinney, Brad White, Joe Lenteni, A.J. LaFleur, Tom Pollard, Bill Cialdea, and was led by Rick Wilcox. The expedition was the first of the 1996 season. We est...
Geographical note: While the well-known peaks in Denali National Park are often called “The Alaska Range,” these peaks form just one part of the immense Alaska Range, which contains many significant subranges, including the Hayes and Delta ranges,...
SLIP—RIVER CROSSING, INADEQUATE BELAY, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo CreekAbout noon on August 23, 1983, two climbers from Ontario (ages 19 and 17), were attempting to cross swollen Bugaboo Creek near Boulder Camp. Peter...
Nun. Our original objective was the unclimbed 5000-foot-high west face of Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet). After a two-day bus trip from Srinagar to Tangol in the upper Suru valley, on September 4 we started with 20 porters and arrived the next day...
Kluane National Park and Reserve, summary. Kluane’s icefields saw the least number of visitors in many years, with 50 people participating in 15 mountaineering expeditions, accounting for 1,017 person-days. The Mt. Logan massif saw only 11 parties...
FALL ON ICEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Kerkeslin, Kerkeslin FallsOn December 30, a party of two was climbing Kerkeslin Falls (III, 3), a moderate waterfall ice route in Jasper National Park. The leader was ascending the third and final pi...