Huayna Potosí, North Ridge. At Easter I hiked from the Zongo Pass on the east side of Huayna Potosí along the aqueduct to a small lake below the northeast (see correction below) and north ridges. From here, between snow squalls, I could see that a...
Rooster Comb, HuntingtonNicholas Colton, Alpine ClubWith A HIMALAYAN expedition looming in the fall, we decided we must climb somewhere in the spring. Tim Leach suggested Alaska, not only for the fantastic potential for climbing but also because ...
AAC, Oregon Section. In February, Tom Bennett and I organized the premier Mazama Denali Conference, which featured 26 speakers from all over Alaska and the lower 48 states and included Bradford and Barbara Washburn as our special guests. Jack Grau...
The Andes are Prickly, by Malcolm Slesser. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1966. 254 pages, 31 photographs, 4 maps. Price: 42 s.This book is not solely on mountaineering; rather it describes an expedition, traveling, climbing, mapping and tape recor...
Cerro La Junta, Trinidad, and Roca Grande de la Junta, new routes. I made my first Cochamó expedition, from the DAV and supported by the Section Bayerland, with Stephan Schanderl (30, mountain guide, also from Munich). We spent six weeks between m...
Some Icelandic MountainsKENNETH A. HENDERSONFrom a mountaineering standpoint Iceland has been much neglected. This is a pity, for the scenery abounds in extensive views, the country is interesting and historic, the people pleasant and extremely he...
Gangotri Region. Our four-man team of Dave Cuthbertson, Pat Littlejohn, John Mothersele and me came to attempt the east face of Kedarnath Dome in late September. Unfortunately Cuthbertson developed pneumonia soon after arrival at Base Camp, necess...
Canada: Data and narratives not available from 2010. Visit alpineclubof- canada.ca/services/safety/index.html for information on the Alpine Club of Canada’s safety program.United States: Aside from once again seeing too many belay and rappel error...
Kokanee Glacier ParkEdward L. DennisUNTIL the Spokane Mountaineers of Spokane, Washington, held their 1937 summer outing in Kokanee Glacier Park,1 about 20 miles N. of Nelson, British Columbia, this interesting region had not been visited in more ...
TABLE III1951-03USA1959-03CAN.2004USA2004CAN.TerrainRock41415039618Snow2289341465Ice2311461812River14300Unknown22900Ascent or DescentAscent273555511823Descent21523524010Unknown2471012OtherN.B.6010Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock28872737110Slip ...
Free Korea Peak, first ascents. On January 6-7 I climbed a new route, solo, up the center of the north face of 4750m Free Korea Peak. I spent one night on the face and another at the top. My route was a substantial variant to the 1975 Popenko Rout...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. Late changes and a new set of illustrations delayed publication of our Climbers Guide to Seneca Rocks until 1971. (We had erroneously reported it as completed in last year’s Journal report.) Covering nearly 100 rout...
Everest, from Sea Level to the Summit. My objective was to make the first real ascent of Everest from sea level, alone on the mountain, unassisted and without suplementary oxygen. The first preference for the final route to the summit was by the w...
Nanga Parbat via Rakiot Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Angelo Giovanetti, Claudio Toldo, Costante Carpella, Francesco Mich, Roberto Dall’O and me as leader. On June 6, after two days of travel, we arrived at Base Camp at 4000 meters ...
Everest, Two British Attempts. In the spring there were two British expeditions attempting Everest from the north. The nine-man Cumbrian expedition led by Pat Gunson had planned to try the west ridge while the fourteen-man Special Air Service Regi...
1951-19881989Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta232685169518British Columbia219854765310Yukon Territory292563000Ontario24648102Quebec15443316East Arctic7...
The American Alpine Club as an Auxiliary in Glacial ResearchRichard Foster Flint[It is a pleasure to reprint the address which Professor Flint, Professor of Geology at Yale and Vice-Chairman of the Arctic Institute of North America, delivered at a...
“The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!” —Alex Lowe By the time of his sudden, tragic death beneath an avalanche on Tibet’s forbidding Mount Shishapangma, Alex Lowe had become a mountain character larger than life...
First Ascents in the Coast Range of British ColumbiaWilliam L. PutnamIN ORDER to meet a great demand in the Harvard Mountaineer ing Club for a summer expedition, I announced in March 1947 that I would lead a trip to the Coast Range of British Colu...
“UNFOUNDED”Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 7,1993, at 2152, HAM radio operator Scott Kimball contacted Rocky Mountain National Park dispatch via a HAM base station operator in Wellington, Colorado. Kimball reported from t...