Diklos-mta, Addala and Addala East, Dagestan, Caucasus. This British- Ukrainian expedition climbed in the Snegovoy and Bogosski ranges in the remote western part of Dagestan in the Eastern Caucasus from August 11 to September 8. We made three firs...
Nun, 1993, Mysterious Disappearance. On August 22, 1993, after establishing Camp II on Nun, we returned to Base Camp. On the way we met three Germans, who revealed that they would attempt D41 (Barmal Peak; 5813 meters, 19,039 feet). Two days later...
Verónica, Attempt on the Unclimbed Northeast Buttress, Cordillera Ur- umbamba. Stuart Thompson, Roger Gott, John James, Mark Lewis, John Burrow and I were in the area from July 19 to August 25. We attempted two routes on the northeast buttress fro...
Gasherbrum I, Ascent. Spaniards Txetxu Lete Bernardo, Koke Lasa Berasategui and Luis Miguel Lopez Soriano climbed the Japanese Couloir on the north face, summitting on July 16, 1995.
Torre Norte del Paine, South Spur, and Torre Sur, North Spur, Winter Ascents. Luca Leonardi and I left Italy on June 10 hoping to climb one of the Paine towers in winter. There had never been even a winter attempt before in the Paine group. On Jun...
Volcan Lautaro, Attempt. On November 27, the Swiss Jurg Anderegg made an almost complete ascent of Volcan Lautaro, taking four days from Piedra del Fraile to the summit. He saw no volcanic activity, and found one section of the route dangerous due...
Thalay Sagar Attempts and Tragedy. A 3-man Japanese expedition led by Kenji Takagi failed to climb Thalay Sagar by its north face. After they had reached 6400 meters in late September, the leader fell to his death from the high point while rappell...
Kasum Kanguru, East Face. In April, Yasushi Yamanoi of Japan soloed a new route on the east face of Kasum Kaguru (6370m). He started from Base Camp at 4 a.m. on April 21 and reached the summit 22 hours later. The first 600 meters of the route was ...
Mount Steele, East Ridge. The Kajika party, Kunio Asaoka, Takashi Nakamura, Koichi Takeuchi, Miss Tokiko Michioka, Shigo Ito and I established Base Camp below the east ridge on April 19. Camp I was established at 10,300 feet on the 21st. Above 11,...
Ama Dablam, Southwest Ridge, Pre-Monsoon. The southwest ridge of Ama Dablam continues to be the objective of numerous expeditions. In the premonsoon season only one group made the climb successfully to the summit. On April 4, Michael Murphy of the...
Torre Egger and Innominata. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Daniel Reid, Rick Sylvester, Americans, Rafael Juárez, Argentine, Eric Jones, Tut Braithwaite, Martin Boysen, Mick Coffey, Keith Lewis, Don Whillans and me, British. For more than two mon...
Uli Biaho Tower, East Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Carlo Grossrubatscher, Adam Holzknecht, Dieter Demetz, Walter Pancheri and me as leader. We hoped to climb the still unascended east face of the Uli Biaho Tower (6083 meters, 19,95...
Kishtwar Himal. An expedition comprising Simon and Elizabeth Brown, Pete Butler, Nicki and Jane Clough, Rob and Netti Collister and, for a short time, a liaison officer, was in the Padar region, based on Athole (Arthal), during September and Octob...
Colorado, Maroon Bells—On August 5, 1956 Ralph Melville with two companions, a boy and a girl, reached the summit of Maroon Bells. As they descended Melville tried to glissade a steep snow slope. He lost his footing and catapulted down a gully. He...
Latok II Attempt. Three days after leaving Askole on June 10, Thomas Strausz, Wolfgang Göschl, Andreas Hollinger and I got to 4500-meter Base Camp on the Uzun Brakk Glacier. Our objective was the southwest buttress of Latok II, the westernmost sum...
Queen Maud Land, Various Ascents. Ivar Erik Tollefsen led a Norwegian expedition to Queen Maud Land, one of the most isolated and unexplored regions of Antarctica. The expedition made 36 first ascents, including the first ascent of Jokulkyrkja (31...
South Face of Prusik Peak, Cashmere Crags. Although we had reserved the first ascent of the 900-foot south face of Prusik Peak for the visit of the French climbers, Guido Magnone and Jean Coure, poor organization on the part of their sponsors and ...
Glückliche Tage auf hohen Bergen, by Walter Schmidt. 326 pages, with 106 photographic illustrations by the author and an index. Bern: Verlag Hallweg, 1951. Price, $4.65.The author of the readable Komm mit mir ins Wallis and Rendezvous in Zermatt h...
Wrangell Mountains, Various Ascents. On April 3, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters flew Anchorage climbers Paul Barry, Kirk Towner and me from Chitina to “Bona Basin” at 10,500 feet on the upper Klutlan Glacier.From this base camp we were able...
Illimani, North Ridge and Peaks in Condoriri Group. Thirteen members of the Club Alpino Italiano, Lucca, climbed in the southern Cordillera Real in June and July 1976. In the Condoriri group they made ascents to Huallomen (5463 meters, 17,920 feet...