Everest, Rapid Ascent. Frenchman Marc Batard announced that he would undertake climbing Everest in 24 hours round-trip from the south-side Base Camp via the South Col to the summit and back. After his acclimatization climb of Cho Oyu, he helicopte...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—BOOTSWyoming, TetonsOn July 27, 1985, at 2020, Quint Barney came to the Jenney Lake Ranger Station and reported an accident on the Skillet Glacier on Mt. Moran. Barney stated that he had climbed the CMC route on ...
Pumachanca Group, Cordillera Vilcanota. Faye Kerr, Mary Fulford and Esme Speakman, an English ladies group, climbed during the middle of August in the Pumachanca group, which rises above a snow- field at the head of the Quebrada San Lorenzo. (See ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDUtah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn November 11, 1987, a male (25) was climbing alone on Beckey’s Wall, on the route Half Finger (5.8). The hold he was reaching for had ice on it. His hand...
Satopanth. On April 27 an Austrian expedition set up Base Camp at 4400 meters. They transported their gear on skis without porters to Camp I and II at 5150 and 6100 meters. Camp II was at the foot of the northeast ridge, which merges into the face...
Erika and Yanina, first ascents; Gemelos Este, possible new route. Gemelos (The Twins) is a mountain near Las Cuevas and the Aconcagua area, near the Chilean border in Argentina’s Provincia de Mendoza. A group directed by Glauco Muratti was active...
Staunings Alper. The “High Altitude Astronomers’ Expedition” consisted of Britons E. Knobloch, D. Smith, Canadians L. Murdock, C. Pritchet, S. Tremaine, H. Yee and me from Norway. We flew to Mestersvig on July 24 and returned to Akureyri, Iceland ...
Treasure Peak, The Pharaoh and The White Fang. Treasure Peak is 6 miles north of Mount Abbott and is called by this name in R.J. Secor’s guide. In July, Urmas Franosch and I did “Band of Gypies,” a direct route on its unclimbed north face. Three f...
Chiring West Attempt. A Japanese expedition, led by Tadashi Kamei, attempted Chiring West (7025 meters, 23,048 feet) by its southwest ridge. They established two high camps, but Camp III was not set up because provisions were swept away from an in...
Manda I (6511m), ascent. A two-member Korean team attempted this peak via the west face and north ridge, the route taken by the 1981 first ascensionists. Kim Hyoung-Duk and an Indian High Altitude Porter, Laxman, made a final push on September 17....
Satopanth. Hiroshi Kawasaki, Toru Kurosawa and I climbed Satopanth by the normal north-ridge route, reaching the summit on June 12. We established Base Camp at Vasuki Tal and Camps I, II and III on June 1,4,7 and 11 at 4850, 5100, 5750 and 6100 me...
Catalogue of the Himalayan Literature. Second Edition. Yoshimi Yakushi. Hakusuisha Publishing Co., Tokyo, 1984. 759 pages. ¥19,000.In 1972 Yoshimi Yakushi, compiler and editor of the present catalogue, encouraged by his mentor Mr. Kyuya Fukata (Vi...
Mir Samir, Direct South Buttress. While on a Mountain Travel excursion to the Chamar valley, on August 3 and 4, 1972 Jim Wilson and I climbed a new route on Mir Samir (19,059 feet), the direct south buttress. The buttress we climbed is to the righ...
Latok I, north ridge, attempt; various new routes on surrounding peaks; repeat of Indian Face Arête. Last summer my brother Willie and I returned to the Choktoi Glacier with fellow Argentinean, Matias Erroz. Our goal was another attempt on the hug...
Aguja Saint Exupéry, South Face, “Le Petit Prince.” Gaël Bouquet- Deschaux, Emmanuel Pellissier, Benoît Robert, Jérôme Arpin and I made a mostly aid route on the unclimbed south face of the Aguja Saint Exupéry. We could climb on only eleven days i...
HENRY AUGUSTUS BUCHTEL, III 1906-1988Dr. Henry Augustus Buchtel, a long-time member of the American Alpine Club and the Colorado Mountain Club, passed away on April 18 at his home in Green Valley, Arizona after a long illness. He is survived by hi...
Coast Mountains, Traverse of the Taku-Whiting Divide. Jan Palaty, Steve Sheffield, Dave Williams and I spent four weeks traversing the Taku-Whiting Divide on skis in April and May. From Juneau we took a floatplane to the confluence of the Taku and...
The Karakoram—Mountains of Pakistan. Shiro Shirahata. Cloudcap, Seattle, 1990. 192 pages, 101 color photographs of which 56 measure 14×20-inches and 45 measure 10×l4-inches. $75.00.Shiro Shirahata, whose superb Nepal Himalaya appeared in 1983, is ...
CLIMBING UNROPED AND UNPROTECTED—Washington, Mt. St. Helens, Ape Canyon. Sp. 4 Peter Mosier (26) was with a U.S. Army training group when he fell 200 feet to his death down a shear rock wall. He was free climbing on a cockscomb like ridge of loose...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, BAD ADVICEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Long’s PeakOn September 17, at 1140, two unidentified females (approximate ages 25) became stranded on the North Face of Longs Peak on the crack system adjacent to t...