Nanga Parbat, Mazeno Ridge Attempt. The 1995 attempt began when all the team assembled in Islamabad on July 17. We were Wojciech Kurtyka (Poland), Andrew Lock (Australia), Rick Allen, Sandy Allan and myself (UK), and also Steven Thomas, who was go...
Mount Blackhorn, North Face. While hiking in to the Ramparts, on August 2 Jerry Fuller and I made the first ascent of the north face of Blackhorn, directly from Astoria Creek. Once we were on the peak, some 800 feet of fairly steep snow took us in...
Terijuay, Plateriyayoq and Palanganayoq Groups, Cordillera Urubamba. The following made up our party: Bob Gunn, John Wild, Cathie Harding, Bruce Webb, Pat Webb and I, all from New Zealand and John Petheram from Rhodesia. We visited the most northe...
Great White Throne, new route. In mid-November, my brother Jonathan Smoot and I climbed a moderate new seven-pitch route up the blank south face of the Great White Throne (III or IV 5.8 AO). Our route followed a unique series of narrow, diagonal r...
Mount Hamilton, South Face, Sequoia National Park. Jim Wilson and Dick Long had scouted the face and reported a Grade V or VI, some 1800 feet of nearly vertical climbing with almost no ledges. The walk in to Lower Hamilton Lake on July 27 was very...
New York, Shawangunks. On 9 May F. deMonterey (leader) with two companions decided to climb the “Twin Oaks.” The leader was familiar with the route and had led it the year before quite easily. The leader did not feel in good form, but felt that he...
Sierra and Yosemite, various activity. Climbing.com reported that Dave Turner soloed a new route, Block Party (VI 5.9 A4), on the southeast face of El Capitan. He fixed ropes for three days and spent 18 days on the wall, finishing June 21. The rou...
Kohe Khwaja Mohammad Myani Region. The Silesian Academic Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Martin Malkowski and had as members M. Bucholz, Krystyna Nitsche, Joanna Mroczkiewicz, J. Madey, A. Drygajlo, J. Pawlikowski, J. Wajler, A. Poslednik, J. Dra...
Churen Himal Attempt. A 14-man Italian expedition led by Oliviero Frachey attempted to climb Churen Himal by the southeast ridge of the east peak. They came to Nepal late and allowed insufficient time for their climb. After establishing four high ...
Grizzly Creek, Mudflap Girl and Mudwall. Unreported from 2005, in the Grizzly Creek drainage of Glenwood Canyon, Chris Kalous and I established Mudflap Girl (700', IV 5.10), the first new route on the wall since Layton Kor’s explorations in the 19...
Mount Triumph, South Ridge. A mixed scrambling and fifth-class route.
Fang Attempt, Southeast Ridge. A 20-man Italian expedition, led by Arturo Bergamaschi, set out from Pokhara on September 5 with 15 Sherpas and 155 porters. They went up the Modi Khola to the south side of Annapurna. Base Camp at 14,100 feet was re...
Devils Thumb, Stikine Icecap, Third Ascent. The approach used by Culbert’s party was not yet clear of ice and so Rich Mathies, Brad Fowler, Craig McKibbon* and I flew with Chuck Traylor of the Stikine Air Service to the mouth of the Flood River, s...
Vertical Heartland: A Rock Climber’s Guide to Southern Illinois. Eric Ulner, photography by David Hart. Second West, Carbondale, IL, 1996. Soft cover, 162 pages. $25.95.Comment: This glossy production is profusely illustrated with photos (some col...
Colque Cruz Group, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expediton from Nürnberg was composed of Werner Scharl, leader, K. Scharl, R. Ilg, F. Rollenmiller, K. Sieland, H. Wolf, R. Sporer, H. Stiegler, W. Zinsmeister, K.H. Thiele, H. Sauer, H.W. Büttner and me...
Cho Oyu, New Route. It was reported that during an Out There Trekking Expedition in the pre-monsoon season, Russian guide George Kotov and American client Bill Pierson managed to find 1000 meters of new climbing on the north side of Cho Oyu. From ...
Aconcagua, South Face. The Tokyo Midori (Green) Alpine Club Expedition was led by Minoru Tatsuta and had as members Toshi Aoki, Masanori Nozaki, Takesaburo Ohashi and Naoyoshi Masuyama. From January 8 to 10 they travelled from Puente del Inca to t...
Central Tower of Paine, East Face. Ermano Salvaterra, Mauricio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi made a difficult new route on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine. They spent ten days on the climb with eight bivouacs. They rated it at UIAA grade V...
Chinchey and Ayukaraju. Shinichi Takizawa led this expedition. Base Camp was established on July 7 on Pucaranracocha at 13,775 feet. On July 21 Ichie Komiyama, Takeshi Yabunami, Taneshi Kaneko, Masatoshi Toda and Takeo Nezu climbed Chinchey (20,41...
Going High The Story of Man and Altitude, by Charles S. Houston, M.D. Published by the author and The American Alpine Club, 1980. 211 pages, 35 illus. including 17 b & w photographs, bibliography. Price $10.00.Charlie Houston is a modest man w...