Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number ofTotalAccidents ReportedPersons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN19511522113195231351713195324271212195431413181955343928619564672541319574553281819583239231119594225623101921960474641237819419614996114451014419627119016401...


Book Reviews AAJ
Southern Rock

Southern Rock. Chris Hall. East Woods Press, Charlotte, North Carolina, 1981. 143 pages, black and white photographs, maps, diagrams. $7.95.To call a climber’s guidebook Southern Rock and to cover the rock climbs in a five-state area, one would ex...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Moyano, Variation, and Cerro Norte, New Route and Correction South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia

From February 16 to March 3, 2009, Benno Wagner, Markus Kautz, Paul Sass, and I, all German, visited these remote mountains in Los Glaciares National Park, southwest of Lago Viedma. We entered the area at Estancia Helsingfors, a 4-5 hour drive ...

| Keywords Original report and correction
| Published 2010 | Author Robert Koschitzki and Markus Kautz


Accident Reports ANAM
Improper Decision — Failure to Turn Back, Fatigue, Exposure, Hypothermia, Inadequate Equipment, Weather, Failure to Follow Route, Oregon, Mount Hood

IMPROPER DECISION–FAILURE TO TURN BACK, FATIGUE, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE Oregon, Mount HoodEarly on the morning of May 12,1986, a party of 20 from the Oregon Episcopal School left Timberline Lo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Patagonia, Cerro Castillo, Southeast Face

Cerro Castillo, Southeast Face. Eduardo Mondragón (España), Pablo Crovetto (Chile) and I, Rodrigo Fica (Chile), climbed the Southeast Face (650m, D+/TD-, 55° average, with a few 70° –80° sections) of Cerro Castillo (2,675m). The route had been unr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Needle Point A.A.C. and C.M.C. Joint Outing, July19—August 9, 15953

A.A.C. and C.M.C. Joint Outing, Needle Mountains, Colorado, July 19—August 9, 1953. The Needle Mountains form a small part of the mass of mountains in the southwest quarter of Colorado, generally called the San Juans. They are located on the east ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Bhutan, Tsendakang

Tsendakang. Our members were Hiroshi Kodama, Kosuke Honma, Ryoji Takahashi, Takeharu Shumiya and I as leader. After an approach from Thimpu, which began on October 12, we arrived at Base Camp at 4700 meters on October 20 on the south side of Tsend...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Caught Off Guard—Post Climbing, California, Mount Dana

FALL ON ICE, CAUGHT OFF GUARD—POST CLIMB California, Mount DanaOn October 9, 1988, Steve Letts (40) fell about 150 meters after he had just unroped from his climbing partner, Richard Hasbrouck. They had descended the 40 degree slope and were stand...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territories, Tombstone Range

Mount Steele, East Ridge. In early July, a party of six Canadians, Bruce Fairley, Neil Humphrey, Heidi Piltz, Eric White, Ellen Wood and I, helicoptered to 7500 feet on the Steele Glacier below the east ridge, which we climbed over the next couple...


Book Reviews AAJ
No Picnic on Kenya

No Picnic on Kenya, by Felice Benuzzi. viii + 238 pages, with sketches and end-paper sketch map. New York: E. P. Dutton & Company, Inc., 1953.Fuga sul Kenya and Kenya, ou La Fugue Africaine, the titles of the original Italian edition and the F...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Vinson, Summary, Record Numbers and New Route

Vinson, summary, record numbers and new route. Over 120 people attempted Vinson Massif this season, far surpassing the previous record of 78 attempts set in 2000-01. This year only two people failed to summit, giving a success rate of nearly 99%. ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Inadequate Instruction and Supervision, Poor Position, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Andrews Glacier

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE INSTRUCTION AND SUPERVISION, POOR POSITIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Andrews GlacierOn June 14 at 1300, Mike Hill was leading a group of 25 to 30 juveniles from River Valley High School, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam. In March and April, Irish climbers comprising Cornelius Moriarty, Ciaran Corrigan, Pat Falvey, Tony Farrell, Mick Murphy and Mike O’Shea were on the southwest ridge of Ama Dablam. They had bad weather and several of the party were inca...


Club Activities AAJ
Yale Mountaineering Club

Yale Mountaineering Club. The activities of the YMC during 1957 were carried out largely in familiar areas. Members visited Mount Washington in the spring for ice climbing. In March, Eric Cheney, Pete Lipman, Charlie Sawyer, Chad Dilley, and Charl...


Editorials And Prefaces ANAM
Accidents in American Mountaineering Eighth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club 1955

This, the eighth annual report, deals with the accidents that occurred in 1954. In addition two accidents that occurred in 1953 are reported which had not been previously reported to the committee. The statistics for 1953 have therefore been corre...


Accident Reports ANAM
HAPE, Frostbite, Inadequate Equuipment, Weather, Alaska, Mount McKinley

HAPE, FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 24, 1992, Daryl Hinman (44), Tom Roseman (42) and Bob Rockwell (56)— members of the China Lake (CA) Mountain Rescue Group—started out from Kantishna to do a traverse of ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Tien Shan, Peak Kezi-Sel, Traverse, and Jamanjar, Attempt

Peak Kezi-Sel, Traverse, and Jamanjar, Attempt. After 14 days’ acclimatization in Kyrgyzstan in the Kichik Alai and Alai ranges, Andrei Lebedev (leader), Ilia Guerov, Boris Malakhov, Piotr Rykalov, and I (assistant leader) began our expedition to ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Solu Towers, Attempt; Female Peak (Peak 5,290m), First Ascent

Solu Towers, attempt; Female Peak (Peak 5,290m), first ascent. The objective of this expedition was to climb one of the Solu Towers (ca 6,000m), situated above Snow Lake in the glacial heart of the Karakoram. The expedition included six women betw...


Editorials And Prefaces ANAM
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Forty-Eighth Annual Report of the Safety Committees of The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada

This is the forty-eighth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the seventeenth that has been done jointly between The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: We are pleased to report a slight subsidence of acci...


Feature Article AAJ
The August Catastrophe on K2

The August Catastrophe on K2H. Adams CarterTHE YEAR 1986 was a tragic one in the great mountains. It was not an influx of inexperienced mountaineers innocently straying into situations which were beyond their capacities. A shocking number of the w...