Accident Reports ANAM
Various Falls on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Rock Flake (Handhold) Came Out, Stranded — Idaho, City of Rock National Reserve, Various Routes

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, ROCK FLAKE (HANDHOLD) CAME OUT, STRANDEDIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Various RoutesThere were six climbing incidents reported from this area. Five involved falls from routes, and in three of ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Nathaniel Lewis Goodrich, 1880-1957

NATHANIEL LEWIS GOODRICH(1880-1957)Mr. Goodrich was born in Concord, N. H., February 9, 1880 and died in Boston, April 30, 1957. He was the son of Arthur Lewis and Mary (Bachelder) Goodrich. On July 30, 1908 he married Alice Lyman, who survives hi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga, North Face

Kangchenjunga, North Face. Kike de Pablo, Juanito Oiarzabal, Alberto Iñurrategi and Félix Iñurrategi arrived at BC on April 1. We worked on establishing the route the first two weeks of April, putting up Cl at 5800 meters on April 7 and CII at 680...


Accident Reports ANAM
Alaska, Kenai Range, Mt. Alice

Alaska, Kenai Range, Mt. Alice. John Vincent Hoeman, David Perry Johnston, Don Stockard, Mike Campbell, and Dennis W. Hitt, at 0630 on 1 July drove around the head of Resurrection Bay as near as they could to the base of Mt. Alice. Hitt had trappe...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon, Bestowal Crack

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Bestowal CrackMy son Chris (17), our friend Eric (17), and I traveled to Eldorado Canyon for guided climbing July 5th. After completing Bestowal Crack, we were in the process of walking...


Feature Article AAJ
El Capitan's Nose Climbed Free

El Capitan’s Nose Climbed FreeLynn HillBy THE TIME THE CROATIAN TEAM had passed us, I noticed shadows of the trees stretching long across the meadow of the Valley floor below. I decided to stop trying to optimize further the crux moves under the r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Roosevelt Fjeld, Johannes V. Jensen Land, Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula and Sanderson's Hope, Tilman-Style

Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula and Sanderson’s Hope, Tilman-Style. Reverend Bob Shepton (Skipper and leader), Brian Newham (Mate), Danuska Rycerz, Steve Marshall and Annie Wilson left Britain on June 18 and sailed to the west coast of Greenland in a 33...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Gunnsbjørnsfjeld

Gunnsbjørnsfjeld. Our expedition made the third ascent of Gunnsbjørnsfjeld, Greenland’s highest mountain, on August 8. It lies in the Watkins Mountains of East Greenland, north of Kangerlugssuaq Fjord. The peak was first climbed in 1935 by a party...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I, Ascent and Tragedy

Gasherbrum I, Ascent and Tragedy. Spanish Climber Manuel Alvarez Diaz (38) perished after successfully scaling Gasherbrum I (8067 m) on July 17. According to sources, after reaching the summit on July 12 at 10:30 a.m., Diaz fell on the descent and...


In Memoriam AAJ
The Duke of Abruzzi, 1873-1933

THE DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI 1873-1933In the death of our Honorary Member, His Royal Highness Prince Luigi Amedeo Guiseppe Maria Ferdinando Francisco di Savoia-Aosta, Duke of the Abruzzi, one of the most romantic figures of our times has been lost, not...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Group, Various Ascents and Descents

Huandoy Group, Various Ascents and Descents. In June, Stephen Koch, Kris Erickson, Chris Trimble, Nat Patridge, Rob Buchanan, and I established Base Camp at an aqua blue lake near the toe of a glacier on the north side of the Huandoy group, one of...


Feature Article AAJ
K2: The End of a 40-Year American Quest

"To our predecessors on K2, upon whose shoulders we climbed." Louis F. Reichardt SITUATED in remote splendor at the upper end of the Baltoro Glacier, K2, second highest peak in the world, has always dominated the imaginations of mountaineers. N...

| Keywords
| Published 1978 | Author Louis F. Reichardt


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Southern Summer Climbing Season in Patagonia, 1987-8

Southern Summer Climbing Season in Patagonia, 1987-8. Just a few days ago (written on February 19, 1988), Sebastián de la Cruz returned from the South. He climbed Cerro Torre with Spaniards Ramón Portillo and Antonio Trabado from the snow cave at ...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers, with nearly 15,000 members, is based in Seattle with branches in Bellingham, Everett, Olympia and Tacoma, Washington. The club offers more than 1,000 trips each year in over 20 different outdoor activities, whil...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Southwest British Columbia (Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades Summary)

Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) summary. The year 2002 was great for alpine climbing in the coastal mountains of British Columbia. Activity was particularly intense in the southwest corner of the provinc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Hielo Continental, Cerro Dos Cumbres, New Route

Cerro Dos Cumbres, New Route. Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland), and Michael Wärthl andTom Dauer (both from Germany) teamed up in November to visit the Cordón Mariano Moreno, a mountain range situated in the middle of Patagonia’s Hielo Continental Su...


Book Reviews AAJ
Clarence King: A Biography

Clarence King: A Biography, by Thurman Wilkins. New York: The Macmillan Company, 1958. ix, 441 pages; ills. Price $7.50.Clarence King was one of the pioneers of American mountaineering, and as such deserves a proper place in our annals. He climbed...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asperity Mountain, Southwest Face North America, Canada, Coast Mountains

On July 29, Tony McLane and I flew in to the Plummer Hut in the Waddington Range, and that afternoon we dropped to the Tiedemann Glacier and a bivy at Sunny Knob. The next morning, we negotiated the glacier below the southwest face of Asperity ...

| Published 2010 | Author Nick Elson, Canada


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Cayangate, Satan's Legs; Nevado Chumpe, Three Chumps on Chumpe

Cayangate, Satan’s Legs; Nevado Chumpe, Three Chumps on Chumpe. On June 11 Mark Hesse, Chris Alstrin, and I walked into the Cordillera Vilcanota. Within the first week we climbed the northwest face of Nevado Chumpe (6,106m; a.k.a. Jatunriti), desc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Shivling

Shivling. An Indian Army expedition went to Shivling to prepare climbers for their expedition to Mount Everest. This large group was led by Major Kiran I. Kumar and Colonel Tankha. They placed Base Camp on the Meru Glacier at the end of March. The...