Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Satopanth

Satopanth. Germans Viktor Stangassinger, Jürgen Grohall, leader Herbert Streibel, Sherpa Dorje and I reached the summit of Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) by the northeast ridge on June 16.Cestmir Lukeš, Czechoslovakian living in Switzerland


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Aconcagua, 2003-2004 Season Overview

Aconcagua, 2003-2004 season overview. This season Aconcagua beat its record for visitation. The estimated number of people in Aconcagua Provincial Park was 7,000 (87% foreign, 13% Argentineans) for the season (November 15, 2003 to March 15, 2004),...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tapadan Sar

Tapadan Sar. In June, Phil Bartlett and I visited the Morkhun valley in the northwest Karakoram and made several spirited attempts on the north face of Jur Jur Khona Sar, a tricky 6000er of easy access from the Karakoram Highway. In excessive heat...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Manda II, Second Ascent and New Route

Manda II, second ascent and new route. The climbing history of the Manda group is surprisingly short. Until 2001 Manda II (the highest summit, 6568m) had been climbed only once; from the west (Kedar Glacier) in 1982 by an American expedition, whic...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Satopanth

Satopanth. A Himalayan Association of Japan expedition with 14 members was led by Akinori Hosaka. Climbing the north ridge, Hosaka, Koji Sekine, Takahito Amagi, Wakio Okegawa and Fumiaki Goto got to the summit on August 9 and Kyoko Endo, Hiroko Hi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Hindu Kush, Mir Samir

Mir Samir. Polish climbers climbed Mir Samir (19,059 feet) by the northeast ridge. The climbers were M. Rusinowski, S. Bochenski and J. Szupinski; the date: August 17.Halina CIEPLINSKA-BoJORSKA, Klub Wysokogórski, Poland


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja de la S, Two Solo Routes, and Saint Exupéry Solo, 1994-95

Aguja de la S, Two Solo Routes, and Saint Exupéry Solo, 1994-95. I climbed solo two new routes on the Aguja de la S. [It is not clear on which face the climbs were made, but it is believed they were on the east face.—Editor.] Qui Se Souvient des H...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Concealed Crevasse—Washington, Mt. St. Helens

FALL INTO CONCEALED CREVASSE—Washington, Mt. St. Helens. On May 29 Professor John Patrick O’Shea (46) of Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon, was leading a group of students from his mountaineering class at OSU, in a climb to the top of Mt....


In Memoriam AAJ
Arnold Louis Mumm, 1859-1927

ARNOLD LOUIS MUMM 1859— 1927(Read at the Annual Meeting, January 19, 1929)Arnold Louis Mumm, an Honorary Member of this Club, whose father had what was once the creditable, but what has now become a doubtful, distinction of supplying an excellent ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Cerro Polleras, New Route

Cerro Polleras, New Route, Central Andes. This Himalayan-like mountain, on the Mendoza border with Chile, has not yet had a revised height. Estimates range from 6232 meters to 6295 meters; Chilean authority Dr. Evelio Echevarria states that it is ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Jammu, Winter Trek along the Zanskar River to Leh, Ladakh

Winter Trek along the Zanskar River to Leh, Ladakh. An Indo-British party co-led by Indian Mandip Singh Soin and Briton John Barry was flown to Padum in Zanskar on February 6 to begin their 120-kilometer trek down the frozen Zanskar River to near ...


Feature Article AAJ
A Woman's Place is On Top

A Woman’s Place is On TopSelected highlights in womens alpinism.Molly Loomis1808: 18-year-old Marie Paradis (France) becomes the first woman to summit Mont Blanc (15,771').1867: Frances Case and Mary Robinson make the first women’s ascent of Mt. H...


In Memoriam AAJ
Bill March, 1941-1990

BILL MARCH1941-1990Bill March died on September 8. He was recognized internationally for his bold mountain climbing accomplishments in Scotland, Canada, South America and the USA. He also contributed much to the literature of the sport, including ...


Feature Article AAJ
Masherbrum—1960

Masherbrum—1960William UnsoeldThanks to three previous attempts made upon it, Masherbrum was an extremely well-scouted objective when our party approached it in May of 1960. As early as 1938 a British party led by James Waller had reached a point ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Rocky Mountains: Elevations in the Maligne Lake Area

Rocky Mountains: Elevations in the Maligne Lake Area. A new edition (1942) of the Jasper Park South Sheet (3 mi. to 1 in.) is now available, with the notable addition of contours and elevations E. and N. of Maligne Pass to the park boundary and th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Tenaya Canyon, New Route

Tenaya Canyon, New Route. While some Club members are painting their names across the skies above the world’s great mountain ranges, others toil in obscurity among the well-worn furrows of our home ranges. Thus my partner Tim Laidman and I happene...


In Memoriam AAJ
Louis L. Bergmann, 1907-1992

LOUIS L. BERGMANN1907-1992Louis M. Bergmann, M.D., a member of the American Alpine Club since 1949, passed away after a long illness on January 4, 1992 in his 84th year. Bom in Austria, he received his medical degree from the University of Vienna ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Jannu, Southwest Ridge

Jannu, Southwest Ridge. Our expedition, Dr. Laurenc Dívald, Daniel Bakoš, Robert Gálfy (son of the leader of our joint Kanchenjunga expedition), Oto Chudý, Ludovít Chrenka, Jidro Martiš, Ján Špánik, Ivan Vozárik and I as leader, made a new route o...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Illness, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, ILLNESSWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn June 25 at 1300, Exum Guide Jim Kanzler reported to park dispatch via cellular phone an accident in Garnet Canyon. According to Kanlzer, Paul Newman (38)...


Feature Article AAJ
A McKinley Traverse via Reality Ridge

A McKinley Traverse via Reality RidgePeter MetcalfVISIONS of spectacular mountain spires, steep clean ice, Yosemite-like granite and new routes in an alpine setting filled my mind as I started planning another Alaskan expedition. The south side of...