Some American Climbs in 1934Alfred E. Roovers[The material which follows is based on a portion of a diary kept by our fellow-member, and which, before his accidental death on the cliff at Arden in December, 1934, he marked for use in preparing a p...
The Arizona Mountaineering Club. The AzMC’s membership totaled 483 at year-end 2002. Given the increased popularity of rock climbing and climbing gyms, the AzMC is competing with an increasing number of climbing venues and providers. Rock climbing...
Cerro Torre— The Eleventh FailureLeo Dickinson, Alpine Climbing GroupIT would now seem possible that eleven expeditions have failed to reach the elusive summit of Cerro Torre. The only one not proven to be a failure is Maestri’s original north fac...
After my first ascent in 2007 of Bawangshan (5,551m) in the Qonglai Shan (AAJ 2008), I wondered what my next target should be. It didn’t take long to find a mountain that fit my criteria: unclimbed, prominent, beautiful, and with easy access...
Yerupajá, West Face Direct. The Germans Ulrich Eberhard and Hans Martin Götz completed the first direct ascent of the west face of Yerupajá on June 28, 1977, some two weeks before the French ascent. (The face had been climbed before by less direct...
When the Alps Cast Their Spell: Mountaineers of the Alpine Golden Age. Trevor Braham. Glasgow, The In Pinn (Neil Wilson Publishing), 2004. 314 pages, colored plates. Hardcover. $30.00When the judges gave the 2004 Boardman-Tasker Award for the best...
Handholds to HeavenHard free-climbing on the rock walls of Pakistan’s Charakusa Valley.Nicolas FavresseBeep, beep, beep.… It’s one a.m. I wake in the middle of one of those dreams where nothing makes sense. It seems as though I’ve barely fallen as...
California, San Gabriel Mountains (2)—On November 19, Joseph High- cove (18), and Walter Reber (18) left Icehouse Resort, in the San Gabriel Mountains, for a climb up Icehouse Canyon to Icehouse Saddle. From there the pair planned to climb any one...
Releasing BellavistaSeventy years ago the Tre Cime Group in the Dolomites was home to the world's boldest and most overhanging aid climbs. The overhangs are still there—and so is the boldness—only now they're beginning to go free.Alexander HuberMo...
Chomolhari, north face, and Chomolhari, northwest pillar. A Slovenian expedition comprising Rok Blagus, Tine Cuder, Matej Kladnik, Samo Krmelj, Boris Lorencic, and Marko Prezelj, accompanied by a doctor, Damijan Mesko, established base camp at 5,0...
There is a rare feeling of completeness and calm that can only come after concerted effort and toil, sacrifice and vision. As the Beaver lifted off from the Kahiltna, and Jay and I headed for Talkeetna and home, I felt more at peace than I can eve...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Most of the Club’s effort during 1962 was devoted to the construction of a log cabin on Mount Washington. The old cabin in Tuckerman Ravine had been scheduled for replacement for several years because of its age and ea...
ALTITUDE SICKNESS, BAD WEATHER, AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn July 19, three members of the four-man Spanish Volaska expedition to the West Buttress of Mount McKinley were descending from the 16,000-foot camp because Gomis Zaragoza had develop...
Jetiboburani, Nampa Group. A seven-man Japanese expedition from Shinshu University made the first ascent of Jetiboburani (22,470 feet), which lies south of Nampa. The leader was Kazuhiko Yamada. They climbed the east ridge. The summit was reached ...
The Wind River Range in WyomingKenneth A. HendersonIT is not generally appreciated that in Wyoming is to be found one of the most alpine regions of the American Rockies. In fact to one who has visited the western mountains elsewhere the sight of t...
Foraker, Talkeetna Ridge. On May 3, Dave Auble and I left the Kahiltna Glacier to attempt the second ascent of Foraker’s Talkeetna Ridge, first climbed by Bertulis, Bleser, Baer, and Williamson in 1968 (A.A.J., 1969, pp. 289-294). Our approach too...
FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinleyClaudia Berryman was a member of the guided eight-member Fantasy Ridge expedition to the West Rib of Mount McKinley. The expedition was guided by Michael Covington, who is the director.The expedition flew into the So...
Iowa Mountaineers Cordillera Blanca Expedition: Thirty-three members met in Lima, Peru on July 4 and during the next six days established Base Camp on a meadow at 13,500 feet in the Llanganuco valley (also but less correctly spelled “Yanganuco” ) ...
On December 22, 1999, Sean Easton and I arrived at the entrance of Torres del Paine National Park with four porters. In three days, with the help of the porters, we managed to move most of our gear to our chosen Advanced Base Camp at the base of...
“Mystery Towers” and The Hindu. These “Mystery Towers”, hidden in a wild maze of red sandstone, are 3/4 mile east of the Fisher Towers, 20 miles northeast of Moab. George Hurley had seen one of them from the summit of the Titan. George and I retu...