In Memoriam AAJ
F. Woodbridge Constant, 1904-1988

F. WOODBRIDGE CONSTANT 1904-1988F. Woodbridge Constant died at his home in Essex, Connecticut on November 16. He graduated from Princeton and earned his Ph.D from Yale. In 1946, he joined the Trinity College faculty in Hartford as chairman of the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Northern Selkirks, Various Ascents

Northern Selkirks, Various Ascents. In August, 1995, Steve Sheriff and I gained a high point beneath Mount Sorcerer by following logging roads through clearcuts above Bachelor Creek. We then bushwhacked directly toward the peak for a kilometer or ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Freedom in Exile—The Autobiography of the Dalai Lama

The Editor also calls the readers’ attention to Freedom in Exile—The Autobiography of the Dalai Lama, Harper Collins, New York, 1990 and Hodder and Stoughton Ltd, London, 1990. 288 pages, numerous photographs.


Accident Reports ANAM
Bad Weather, Exposure—Washington, Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge

BAD WEATHER, EXPOSURE—Washington, Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge. Tim Riordan (31), Jeff Jones (21) and Jack Tackle (23) were helicoptered from 8,500 feet on the Winthrop Glacier after a two day search effort. Bad weather conditions had forced them to...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, No Ice Axe Leash System, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Andrews Glacier

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, NO ICE AX LEASH SYSTEMColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Andrews GlacierOn September 16, Charles Bailey (37) slipped on Andrews Glacier while glissading. He lost his ice ax and was unable to stop himself. H...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, CIS—Caucasus and Pamirs, Elbrus and Pik Korzhenevskoy

Elbrus and Pik Korzhenevskoy. On June 12 and 18,1 climbed to the summits of Elbrus East (5621 meters, 18,442 feet) and Elbrus West (5642 meters, 18,510 feet) in the Caucasus. I was informed that I was the first American woman to ski from the summi...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (2), Storm Point

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (2), Storm Point—On July 7, James E. Ferris (22) and James M. Brydon signed out at the Chief Ranger’s Office for belaying practice on the south side of Storm Point. Due to the fact that a mountain rescue was alre...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Party Separated, California, Mt. Shasta

EXPOSURE, PARTY SEPARATED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Mt. ShastaOn February 3, 1978, Ed Paterson and Ron Sova (34) attempted a winter climb of Mt. Shasta. While Peterson and Sova were in the area of the Red Banks, a fierce winter storm’s full...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Kyajo Ri, First Recorded Ascent of Southeast Ridge

Kyajo Ri, first recorded ascent of southeast ridge. On October 24 Seth Hobby and I established base camp at 4,600m below the east face of Kyajo Ri (6,186m). Our plan was to climb the mountain from the northeast. Photos provided by our friend and t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Jammu, Nun Attempts

Nun Attempts. There were two unsuccessful expeditions to Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) in 1994. French climbers led by Jean Bordes attempted the north face while a British-American expedition led by Alan Burgess tried in September to climb the we...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Inexperience, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Stanley Basin

AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Stanley BasinOn February 24, 1979, two cross-country skiers, Michael Roger Cheng and Allison Joan Bonnie, of Calgary, Alberta, died in an avalanche in the Stanley Basin in Kootenay National...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Kluane National Park Reserve, Mt. Kennedy, North Buttress, First Alpine-Style Ascent

Mt. Kennedy, North Buttress, First Alpine-Style Ascent. The 6,000-foot North Buttress of Mt. Kennedy was an obviously orgasmic and well-known alpine-style objective in the St. Elias Range. The buttress had been climbed twice before (1968 and 1977)...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Southern Peru, Salcantay

Salcantay. Our team consisted of Michel Biodjekian, Jean-Paul and Geneviève Bouquier, Laurent and Evelyne Coursol, Maurice Gelman, Christian Genina, Albert Peret, Réné Tirollier, Alain Pascal, Bernard Hostein and me. In early July we all climbed C...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Loss of Control — Voluntary Glissade, Faulty Use of Crampons, Inexperience — Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Teewinot

FALL ON SNOW, LOSS OF CONTROL – VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount TeewinotOn the morning of July 17, David Berry and Andrew Baldyga departed Yellowstone National Park and stopped at J...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum IV, East Face, Attempt

Gasherbrum IV, East Face, Attempt. No protection and avalanches stopped a Korean expedition of the Seoul University Alpine Club at 7400 meters on August 11 on the east face of Gasherbrum IV (7925 m), which remains unclimbed. The expedition reached...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Central Tower of Paine, South-Southwest Face, 1986

Central Tower of Paine, South-Southwest Face, 1986. Italians climbed a new route on the south-southwest face of the Central Tower of Paine. The route, which rises from the col between the central and south towers, crosses the bottom of the Kearney...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Kongur, Sinkiang

Kongur, Sinkiang. Our 10-man British Mount Kongur Expedition had two main objectives: to make the first ascent of Kongur and to conduct a programme of medical research into the reaction of the expedition members to altitude. The mountain was succe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Techado Negro, Rost Spur.

Techado Negro, Rost Spur. Many climbers took interest in this peak this past season. It lies on the far south end of the Fitz Roy Massif and is characterized by its black colored rock, which more often than not is very loose. Amongst the few ascen...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
United States, Alaska, P 7455, P 7420, P 6600, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains

P 7455, P 7420, P 6600, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains. On June 7, a six-man joint St. Elias Guides and American Alpine Institute expedition flew to the Thompson Ridge area near the headwaters of Granite Creek. On the 9th, we attempted P 7455 b...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Rappel Error—No Backup System, Arkansas, Buffalo National River Wilderness Area, Hawksbill Crag

FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR–NO BACKUP SYSTEMArkansas, Buffalo National River Wilderness Area, Hawksbill CragOn the afternoon of August 25th, a 20-year-old woman was rappelling off a 100-foot bluff near Hawksbill Craig, also known as Whitaker Point,...