Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite, Alaska, Mount McKinley

FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinleyClaudia Berryman was a member of the guided eight-member Fantasy Ridge expedition to the West Rib of Mount McKinley. The expedition was guided by Michael Covington, who is the director.The expedition flew into the So...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Iowa Mountaineers Cordillera Blanca Expedition

Iowa Mountaineers Cordillera Blanca Expedition: Thirty-three members met in Lima, Peru on July 4 and during the next six days established Base Camp on a meadow at 13,500 feet in the Llanganuco valley (also but less correctly spelled “Yanganuco” ) ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South Tower, Southeast Buttress, Hoth Chilean Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park

On December 22, 1999, Sean Easton and I arrived at the entrance of Torres del Paine National Park with four porters. In three days, with the help of the porters, we managed to move most of our gear to our chosen Advanced Base Camp at the base of...

| Published N/A | Author Connie Amelunxen


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, "Mystery Towers" and The Hindu

“Mystery Towers” and The Hindu. These “Mystery Towers”, hidden in a wild maze of red sandstone, are 3/4 mile east of the Fisher Towers, 20 miles northeast of Moab. George Hurley had seen one of them from the summit of the Titan. George and I retu...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Andromeda, Practice Gullies

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Andromeda, Practice GulliesOn June 4, two climbers left the climber’s parking lot at 0500 enroute to the Practice Gullies (III) on Mount Andromeda. These inappropriately named ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Spider Mountain, North Face

Spider Mountain, North Face. A climb of the hook-shaped snow finger leading directly to the summit.


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, New Hampshire, Iron Mountain

FALL ON ROCKNew Hampshire, Iron MountainOn June 12, 1983, three hikers were descending from Iron Mountain when one of them got too close to the edge of a cliff and fell 100 meters to a ledge. (Source: Rick Wilcox. New Hampshire Mountain Rescue Ser...


Club Activities AAJ
Appalachian Mountain Club

Appalachian Mountain Club. Growth in almost all phases of A.M.C. activity dominated its 88th year: membership showed the greatest gain in history with a net increase of 627 for a total of 8,858 members at year end; so many persons showed up for th...


Notes AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Renamed Nepalese Peaks

Renamed Nepalese Peaks. On January 1, 1983 the Nepalese government considered renaming a number of peaks and geographical features, but this is not yet official.Past NamePresent NamePast NamePresent NameCross PeakTaple ShikharLady’s PeakGumba Chul...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mischief Goes South

Mischief Goes South, by H. W. Tilman. London: Hollis & Carter, 1968. 190 pages, 18 photographs, 3 maps. Price: 30s.Mischief Goes South is the fifth in a series of sea narratives by this mountaineer turned sailor. Tilman, whose distinguished mo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Mali, Suri Tondo, Veus del Desert and BMW

It was reported that Spanish climbers Sílvia Vidal and Pep Masip established Veus del Desert (6b+ A4+, ten pitches) on the middle of the southeast face of the south summit of the 400-meter Suri Tondo. The first five pitches were almost entirely ai...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Peak 9,365', First Ascent and Ski Descent, and Exploration Alaska, St. Elias Mountains

In April, Tory Dugan, Jason Kwiatkowski, and I began a month-long kite-assisted ski expedition with a goal of traveling from the Hubbard Glacier to the Miles Glacier, a distance of nearly 200 miles. We skied many couloirs and features along our ro...

| Published N/A | Author Ryan Hokanson


Club Activities AAJ
Mazamas

Mazamas. Unusually good weather gave The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, the opportunity to start 140 climbs during the 1965 season, with 1902 individual ascents resulting. New summits to the club were Mounts Garfield and Washington, Wilmon Peak, Klo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, North Twin, North Face, House-Prezelj

North Twin, north face, House-Prezelj. In early April 2004 American Steve House and Slovenian Marko Prezelj made the third ascent (Lowe-Jones, 1974; Blanchard-Cheesmond, 1985) of the daunting 4,500' north face of North Twin, one of the great prize...


Feature Article AAJ
Stanford Coast Range Expedition, 1954

Stanford Coast Range Expedition, 1954NICHOLAS B. CLINCHAt noon, June 25th, Bill Fisk, chief pilot for Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc., landed his red Norseman float plane so gently on the waters of Dumbell (Ghost) lake that his seven passengers never kne...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Deep in the Alaskan Bush Alaska, Brooks Range, Arrigetch

In mid-April photographer Corey Rich asked if I wanted to join a 10-day climbing trip in the Brooks Range with the man himself, Tommy Caldwell. How could I say no? The trip came together last minute, and we didn’t even know where we were going...

| Published 2011 | Author Hayden Kennedy


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Watkins Bjerge and Gunnbjorns Fjeld areas, First Ascent Claims

Watkins Bjerge and Gunnbjorns Fjeld areas, first ascent claims. As a frequent visitor to Greenland (10 expeditions) perhaps I can offer some corrections and additional information that might clarify claims of ascents in the region of Gunnbjorns Fj...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse-Inadequate Protection, Weather and Stranded-Weather, Exposure-Hypothermia, Washington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham Glacier

FALL INTO CREVASSE—INADEQUATE PROTECTION, WEATHER AND STRANDED—WEATHER, EXPOSURE—HYPOTHERMIAWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn June 6, Mount Rainier Climbing rangers responded to two mountaineering accidents on the Ingraham Direct Glaci...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Trango Pulpit, More Czech, Less Slovak

Trango Pulpit, More Czech, Less Slovak. In July, the Czech/Slovak expedition consisting of Ivo Wondrácek, Tomáš Rinn, Pavel Weisser and Michal Drašar (all Czech) left Prague June 18. Jaroslav Dutka from Slovakia had problems with his transit visas...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. “All aboard for the Great South Circle Trip! Great North Circle Trip and Hall’s Spires leave tomorrow at 7:29 A.M. promptly! Mt. Bonneville on Thursday, rain or shine.” No, not the announcer at Grand Central. This comes fro...