Tiger of the Snows. The Autobiography of Tenzing of Everest with James Ramsey Ullman. 294 pages, 26 illustrations, 5 maps and sketches. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1955. Price $4.50.This is a remarkable book. Mr. Ullman has succeeded in seeing ...
Trisul Attempts and Tragedy. An 8-member Polish expedition led by Michal Kochanczak attempted to climb Trisul (7120 meters, 23,360 meters) from the west in August and September. In bad weather they got to 6700 meters. Mrs. Anna Bruzdowicz Dudek di...
Meeting the Mountains. Harish Kapadia. Indus Publishing Company, New Delhi, 1998. 49 black-and-white photos. 30 maps. 398 pages. $27 (Order directly from ; reference IN 01019.)We mountaineers like to think of ourselves as individualists, but most ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY - ROPE TOO SKINNY FOR BELAY DEVICE (GRIGRI)Kentucky, Red River Gorge, Torrent FallsOn April 11, Marie Abernathey (early 20s) was leading Dream of a Bee (5.8), a well-bolted sport climb at the Torrent Falls area of Re...
EDMOND STEPHEN MEANY 1862-1935Edmond Stephen Meany was born in East Saginaw, Michigan, December 28, 1862. He died in Seattle, Washington, April 22nd, 1935.Few men, in the span of a single life, contribute broadly to widely divergent fields of huma...
Yosemite Climbs. George Meyers & Don Reid. Chockstone Press, Inc., Denver, 1987. 433 pages, monochrome photos, line drawings, maps. $22.00 (paper).Yosemite Valley has some of the best granite rock climbing in the world. It also has crime, pove...
Kedarnath Dome. One of the 11 members of the Reserve Bank of India team, Panchanan Bhattacharjee, and two Sherpas, Karma and Wangdi, climbed Kedarnath Dome (22,400 feet) on October 9.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Voices from the Summit: The World’s Great Mountaineers on the Future of Climbing. Edited by Bernadette McDonald and John Amatt. Adventure Press/National Geographic, in association with The Banff Centre for Mountain Culture, 2000. Approximately 110...
On Tuesday May 17, American Alpine Club (AAC) Executive Director Phil Powers (50) took four of his employees—Keegan Young, Penn Burris, Sarah Wood, and Deanne Buck—climbing at High Wire Crag in Clear Creek Canyon, a popular and accessible sport cl...
JIRISHANCAA climbing history of the Hummingbird Peak’s southeast face, Peru.Jeremy FrimerNo range is more identified by a single event than Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash. In the shadow of Touching the Void lies a spectacular group of mountains, comp...
PARTY BECOMING SEPARATED—Wyoming, Tetons. Christopher Church (20) and David Hamilton (23) were climbing the Owen-Spalding route when they experienced a hailstorm. They descended from a point just above the rappel to the Upper Saddle via the standa...
Walker Citadel Southeast Face. Paul Gagner and Rick Lovelace climbed a new route, Superunknown (VI 5.10 A3) on the southeast face of the Walker Citadel in Sam Ford Fjord over the course of 22 days. The story of their climb and subsequent problemat...
Yunnan Province, Hengduan Shan, ascent of Peak 4,750, attempt on Baimang Shan, and reconnaissance of Meilixueshan and Habaxueshan areas. During April and May Paul Macleman and I visited the Hengduan mountains of northwestern Yunnan Province. This ...
Noshaq. We set up our Base Camp at 15,000 feet at the northwest foot of Noshaq. On July 25 the entire team, Charles Brush, James Caruthers, Robert Emrick, Jay Gingrich, Walter Hotchkiss and I climbed Korpusht-e-Yakhi (18,688 feet). On July 30 we p...
Royal Navy East Greenland Expedition. A 12-man Royal Navy expedition visited the Angmagssalik area of East Greenland between July and September. The main aim was exploratory mountaineering in an unexplored group of peaks of Schweizerland (66° 30' ...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION AND BELAY, HAPE, FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinley, South ButtressOn May 27, Nancy Bluhm (32) of the “Dancing Fools” expedition was airlifted by helicopter from the South Buttress of Mount McKinley after sustainin...
Those who do not believe in God might reconsider their position when scanning through Shiro Shirahata’s photographs of the Karakoram, especially if you are a mountain climber. At almost every page of The Karakoram, you will be impressed. Is the ...
RICHARD M. HURD1865-1941In the death of Richard M. Hurd, the American Alpine Club loses one of its original members (1902). In 1885, when he was barely 20, he ascended Matterhorn, Gross Glockner and Monte Cristallo, two of his guides on the Glockn...
Difficult Peaks of the Sierra NevadaNorman ClydeON NUMEROUS occasions the writer has received inquiries as to the character of the mountaineering which the Sierra Nevada affords. In reply it might be said that compared with the Alps or the Canadia...
Cho Oyu 2005 - blood samples at very high altitude. In the autumn of 2005, the Anglo-Irish Xtreme Everest Expedition to Cho Oyu (8,188m) undertook a number of ambitious scientific projects at high altitude. The seven-man team, which comprised Roge...