FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyBrian Bennett (21) and Alan Swanson (24) stated that they began climbing the Harding Route on Glacier Point Apron (Grade III, Y.D.S. 5.7), at 10...
Annapurna I, Northwest Ridge, New Route. A 10-member expedition (eight Poles, one Ukrainian and one American) led by Michal Kochanczyk, successfully surmounted the formidable unclimbed northwest ridge of Annapurna I, the world’s tenth highest moun...
British Columbia, Rockies, Mt. Vice-President. On 10 August J. A. Van Geldersen (26) of Vancouver, was climbing solo in Yoho National Park. He first climbed Mt. President, descended it safely, and then reached the top of Vice-President. While desc...
Palisade Traverse, second continuous ascent. Our climb consisted of a complete traverse of the Sierra Crest from Southfork Pass to the summit of Mt. Agassiz, a distance of approximately eight miles. This route is notable not only for its length bu...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONOntario, Dundas, Webster’s FallsOn February 7, 1982, Glenn Yates (21) and Graeme Smith (19) were ice climbing at Webster’s Falls. The following is an edited version of Smith’s account of the accident.After a good ...
Mount Humphreys Variation. In August, Mark Hoffman and I followed the regular route to a point just below the normal class-4 pitch, which climbs the left side of the ridge crest. We traversed to the right side of the ridge and climbed a thin crack...
FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Banff National Park, Moraine Lake, Schiesser Ledges RouteOn July 23, G.A. (62) was a member of a guided party that was on a multiday traverse in the ten peaks area in Banff National Park. The party had climbed up to The Neil C...
Oregon Section. The Oregon section has had a very busy year. Richard Bence Oregon section web master has kept the section in touch and working with Jeff Alzner and others to organize functions. Richard Bence hosts the Oregon section web site (http...
Makalu II Attempt. On our way to attempt Makalu II’s northwest ridge one of the loads containing the expedition’s ice tools fell into the Arun River, never to be seen again. One member raced back to Kathmandu to replace the lost equipment. After f...
Kangchenjunga, First Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1986. A 17-man Polish expedition led by Andrzej Machnik made the first winter ascent of the world’s third highest mountain. Base Camp was established on December 10 at 5100 meters. They climbed the f...
Bulgarian Ama Dablam Attempt. This Bulgarian expedition led by Venelin Petrov had hoped to climb a new route, the northwest ridge to the west face. They were badly delayed because cargo by truck from Bulgaria failed to arrive on time and they had ...
EDWARD LAURENCE DENNIS 1903–43Mr. Dennis, who died on May 16, 1943, was a former President of the Spokane Mountaineers. He was born in the Palouse Country of Washington, graduating from the State College in 1926. Heserved as captain in the Air Cor...
Ellsworth Mountains, Various Activity. We climbed the Vinson Massif in the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains via a new route on the southeastern side. Our expedition took place from December 19, 2000, to January 16, 2001. Our group consist...
Stefan Brunner and I, spent three weeks together in the Cochamó Valley at the end of January and beginning of February We found a great line on the far right side of the Profetas Wall, which is on the opposite side of the valley from Mt. Trinida...
On January 24, 1988, Bill Isherwood (46) and Bill McConachie (36) hiked with two companions to the ice climbing area in Lee Vining Canyon. McConachie proceeded to lead the first pitch of the middle ice fall while Isherwood belayed from a semiprote...
Ganchen Group. Chris Forrest and I reached the Sosbun Glacier on July 30 after a three-day walk from Dasso with five porters. We had originally hoped to attempt the rocky spires that make up the peaks of the west Biafo wall. However, on this side ...
Cerro Torre, Slovenian Start variation, and Aguja Poincenot, Italian Route, first integral ascent. On January 17, 2005, our small team from Slovenia, Patagonian veteran Silvo Karo, my wife Tanja Grmovsek, and Monika Kambic-Mali, and I settled down...
Río Blanco Group. In January 1955 Jorge and Sergio Domicelj, Juan Guthmann, Fredy Klayman, and Carlos Stegmann of the Centro Andino, Buenos Aires, climbed in the Río Blanco Group, which lies just to the south of Aconcagua. From a base camp at 10,3...
New Hampshire, Mt. Jefferson. On 11 August at 1300 a sudden and violent thunder storm struck Mt. Jefferson and the surrounding area. Numerous hikers were in the area at the time; some thirty sought refuge at the Edmonds Col Emergency Shelter. The ...
Bugaboo Spire, East Face. All winter I longed to return to the rock of the beautiful and inspiring east face of this peak after my attempt last year with Art Gran. This attempt, which had stopped only 500 feet short of the summit, had involved thr...