Mont Blanc Sesqnicentennial. This August will mark the 150th anniversary of the most important event in the history of mountaineering, for it was on the 8th and 9th of August, in 1786, that Dr. Michel Gabriel Paccard and Jacques Balmat, of Chamoni...
Ascents on Great Cross Pillar, The Turret, and an Attempt On Polar Sun Spire. Mark Synnott, Warren Hollinger and Jerry Gore spent from May 13 until the end of June in Sam Ford Fjord, accomplishing a first ascent of The Great Cross Pillar (5500 fee...
Snow Dome, Mehrbani. In August Rob Ferguson, Dave Wilkinson and I climbed Snow Dome (16,500 feet) and Mehrbani (17,517 feet) from the Naltar valley and P 5961 (19,557 feet) from the Daintar valley. Having crossed from the Kerengi to the Sat Marao ...
Mount Blackburn. On August 12, after four days of climbing from Base Camp at 6900 feet, John McDonald, Dick Sletten and I reached the summit of Mount Blackburn (16,523 feet). Our route followed through icefalls on the third arm of the Kuskalana Gl...
P 7200 and Other Peaks, Little Switzerland. Dan Hansen, Nick Giustina, Chris Haunold, Jane Ramp, Kent Benesch, Jim Anglin and I spent ten days in Little Switzerland between July 4 and 14, much of it stormbound. On July 13 the ever present rain cea...
Punta Quebrada, Yeso Valley. One of the few unclimbed peaks of the Yeso valley, above Santiago, a short, difficult rock climb, was ascended on November 1 by Víctor Geell and Osvaldo Latorre during a mountaineering school course of the Federación d...
Ski Descents in the Cordillera Blanca. Patrick Vallençant made a number of ski descents, some of which have been noted elsewhere in this Journal. He skied down the normal route on Huascarán Norte on June 2. On June 23 with Dominique André, Jean-Ma...
Peaks in El Brujo Group. Two peaks belonging to E1 Brujo group, located at the head of the Maitenes valley, north of Tinguiririca river (Colchagua province) were ascended in early January by Chilean climbers. Besides other repeat ascents, F. Arias...
Cerro Adela, Patagonia. After exploring for a route on Cerro Torre, Jorge Aikes, Omar Pellegrini and Nestor Monaco placed a camp at the foot of the north-northeast ridge of Cerro Adela (9711 feet). After seven days of constant snowstorms, they set...
Sunrise Wall. This wall, a short walk from Tuolumne Meadows, was first climbed in 1974 (A.A.J., 1975). In July, Steve Gerberding, Dimitri Barton and I climbed two new routes on it in a day. Pamplona starts in a large left-facing corner on the righ...
Paine group, Patagonia. A joint group of climbers of the Universidad de , Chile, Santiago and Club Mañke stayed most of January in the Paine massif. Their main goal was Cerro Catedral del Paine, (2300 meters or 7546 feet), located some six miles n...
LIGHTNING, POOR POSITION-LATE AFTERNOONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 12, Andy Haberkorn (28) was seconding his partner, Stanley Smigel, on a crux 5.10 pitch of the Casual Route on the Diamond of Longs Peak. As Haberkorn...
Elephant Head. A tower northwest of Dome Peak. The south side was climbed and was variously described as 5.5 and fourth class.
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonOn March 27, 1983, Mark Brockman (19) was descending Mount Washington via the Tuckerman Ravine Trail with a group from the Boston University Outing Club when he fell to ...
Kaga Tondo, Various Ascents. It was reported that in December, 1998, Claus Obrist, Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder put up the 600-meter Inshallah, which follows an obvious crack system to the left of Garmi Airlines (Griso-Lucas, 1985). Thre...
Latok I (23,439 feet) was finally climbed up the south face by a Japanese expedition led by Naoki Takada. The route ascended the buttress left of the couloir that divides Latok I and III. Base Camp was established on the Baintha Lukpar Glacier at ...
Gasherbrum IV Attempt. An eight-man Japanese expedition led by Yukio Katsumi failed to climb Gasherbrum IV by its west face. Base Camp was established on June 9. They placed four camps on the mountain, Camp IV at 20,350 feet. On July 29 a high poi...
"Shan Tower" Directly west of Squaretop, Bill Nicolai and I climbed a prominent tower at the north side of the head of a previously unvisited hanging valley. We called it “Shan Tower”. We began in a rotten chimney on the northeast side and travers...
STRANDEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleAt 0400 on July 27, 1987, two climbers (both about 30) left their bivouac at the base of the North Face of Mount Temple to begin climbing the Northeast Buttress. By evening they reached a large overhan...
Makalu Attempt. An Italian expedition of 11 was led by Almo Giambisi. They first wanted to repeat the Czechoslovakian route up the southeast buttress and reached 6800 meters on September 19. Strong winds forced them down the mountain and they wait...