Mount Blackburn, 1977. Two Japanese expeditions in 1977 climbed Mount Blackburn (16,390 feet) from 7200 feet on the Nebesna Glacier via the northwest ridge. A four-man party led by Katsuaki Kawamura got to the summit on April 24, 1977. On June 12,...
Gangotri, Vasuki Parbat (6,792m), west face. Attempted once before, by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden, the 1,600m west face of the rarely-visited Vasuki Parbat gives sustained mixed difficulties of Scottish VI, 7 (or approximately M6). British alpin...
Silverthrone. Rod Newcomb, Dean Moore, Jake Elkins and I skied up to the summit ridge of Silverthrone via the south icefall and returned on skis, quite a navigation problem through the icefall.Steven W. Hackett
Peaks in Aysén District, Northern Patagonian Continental Icecap. A group from our institution led by Osvaldo Latorre and composed of G. Oyarzún, A. Marcel, and R. Aguilera explored the northern extreme of the Continental Icecap in the Aysén distri...
Spaniard Basques Felix Iñurrategi and Alberto Inurrategi, Joseba Urkia, Fernando Uribesalgo, Jon Ander Loido and Xabier Zuniga attempted to climb K2 from the north but they were unable to get higher than 8000 meters. After a difficult approach w...
Juneau Icefield. This summer Barry Prather, Jim Anderson, Ome Daiber, Dorrell Looff and I were American Alpine Club members who served on the staff of the Glaciological and Arctic Sciences Institute and its affiliated Juneau Icefield Research Prog...
Kangchenjunga, Body of Female Discovered. Simone Moro led an unsussessful Italian/Polish expedition that attempted the Normal Route on the southwest face. They abandoned their attempt at 8000 meters on April 30. While on the mountain they reported...
Selkirks. A Geological Survey of Canada field party under the leadership of John O. Wheeler was again active in the Selkirks during the summer of 1962. During late June and early July they undertook a month-long backpacking trip from Mount Revelst...
Three Gossips, Arches National Monument. In the Park Avenue section of the monument are several impressive formations, few of which have been climbed. Many have blank, rotten sections at their bases. We chose the northern summit of the Three Gossi...
Alaska Section. The Alaska Section purchased the Snowbird Hut, a dome-shaped structure built on stilts on the moraine above the Snowbird Glacier in the Talkeetna Mountains. It is important as one of two shelters on the “Bomber” traverse, linking s...
Pucamataraju. The Quebrada Rurec opened to our admiration, dominated by imposing Huantsán. Night closed in as Giorgio Pettigiani and I camped on the shore of Lake Tararhua at 14,450 feet. The next night we were camped at 16,000 feet, east of Casha...
Mt. Andromeda, Andromeda Strain, First Free Ascent. In September, John Culberson and I made the first free ascent of Andromeda Strain on Mt. Andromeda in the Canadian Rockies. This 2,300-foot route is alpine climbing from the car at its best. I fr...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Members of the Cascade Section engaged in a number of most interesting and even some outstanding pursuits during 1964. Included in these activities were the first ascent of a north ridge of Mount Logan in Yukon Territory (...
A. P. Harper and the New Zealand A. C. The accompanying photograph of Arthur P. Harper, Honorary Member of the A. A. C., was taken by N. E. Odell at The Hermitage, hotel at 2500 ft. in the Southern Alps of New Zealand, on the occasion of the 60th ...
Rotten Monolith. The Rotten Monolith is a rather conspicuous tower visible from the main highway, prominent on the skyline when viewed either from the south (driving from Sun Valley to Redfish Lake) or from the north (from the village of Stanley)....
Because of space limitations, we have limited reports to those from AAC sections. We regret losing track of our sister organizations, whose activity reports have been a long and welcome tradition in these pages.Alaska Section. The principal activi...
Vallecitos, East Face. Members of the Club Andinista Mendoza opened several new routes on peaks located in Mendoza province: Cerro Sosneado Sur (4800 meters, 15,748 feet) via southeast face by A. Randis in January; Cerro Laguna, (5034 meters, 16,5...
North Chasm View Wall, Rotten Piggy. In September Chris Kruthaupt and I climbed the new route Rotten Piggy between No Pig Left and No Pig Deal. It begins in a large gully/chimney system 100 feet to the right of the Comic Relief buttress. Ascend th...
Aguja Poincenot, Techado Negro, Fitz Roy Group, Patagonia. Along with Alfredo Rosasco I made a new route, the southwest face of the Aguja Poincenot, from December 24 to 28. This was a 4000-foot wall of great difficulty but we had good weather: The...
Whitney Portal, Corpus Christi Buttress. Between Whitney Portal and El Segundo Buttresses, and slightly above these formations are several large walls and buttresses. On Easter, Gary Slate, Fred Beckey and I climbed what we believe to be the first...