HELEN I. BUCK 1884-1972This year the Club lost a most distinguished member, Helen I. Buck, known and loved by generations of American mountaineers. Many climbers, foreign and American, came to know this cheerful, knowledgeable, modest woman in the...
Editors note: Guide to the Rwenzori - Mountains of the Moon; 336 pages including 48 color plates, 25 grayscale, and 30 maps and drawings; ISBN 0-9518039-6-4. Publication date June 2006. £16.00.The 1972 Osmaston and Pasteur “Guide to the Rwenzori,”...
Along the Backbone of the Big Bend, Canadian Rockies. With the support of three air supply-drops at an estimated distance of four days’ hike apart, Sterling B. Hendricks, Donald Hubbard, and Alvi E. Peterson undertook to travel the alpine uplands ...
Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-711959-711972U.S.A.CAN.U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock10097412225Snow533804915River4000Unknown1210Ascent or DescentAscent758909025Descent696607113Unknown936112Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock552426011Failur...
Api, West Ridge Attempt. The Japanese Chuo University Expedition failed to climb Api in western Nepal. The leader was Kuniharu Ichikawa and the deputy was Yasunuri Hirota. They attempted the unclimbed west ridge. From Camp IV at 19,600 feet they t...
FALL ON ICE, WEATHERNew Hampshire, Mount AdamsHigh winds and ice-covered trails brought a January Presidential Range traverse to a sudden stop when a climber fell and broke her leg. On the second day of what would have been a three-day guided rang...
AAC, New York Section. As the millennium approached, the New York Section could look back on 25 years of continued growth and a strong tradition of volunteerism and financial support on behalf of Club causes. Now numbering more than 600 members—a ...
Skardatindar, new route. In February Jean-Baptist Deraeck, Sebastien Ibanez, Sébastien Ratel, and I climbed what we think is a new route on Skardatindar (1,385m). We did not have any information on this mountain. We expected to find a route, but c...
Mont Blanc Sideshow, The Life and Times of Albert Smith, by J. Monroe Thorington. 8 vo., 255 pages including appendices, bibliography and index, containing twenty-nine illustrations. Philadelphia. The John C. Winston Co., 1934. Price $2.50.The aut...
Overview. Forty-six foreign and 47 Indian expeditions climbed in the Indian Himalaya during 2005. These numbers were lower than normal. Among the foreign expeditions, more that half climbed on such standard objectives as Nun, Kun, and Kedar Dome. ...
Ama Dablam, Southeast Face. Sergei Bogomolov, Dmitri Botov, Sergei Golubtsov and I climbed a new route on Ama Dablam in pure alpine-style with no fixed camps, no fixed rope and no Sherpa porters. We placed Base Camp on the Nare Glacier at 5300 met...
Chong Kumdan I (7,071m), southeast ridge. On August 20 at 4 p.m., Marlin Geist, Donald Goodman, Chris Robertson, and I, with Sherpas Nima Dorje, Pemba Norbu, and Ming Temba, completed a new route on Chong Kumdan I. Our route climbed the southeast ...
Mala Pata in the Paine Towers, ChileCraig Peer, D.O.C.C. AS US SCOTTY’S MINIBUS turns the corner, I’m greeted by a stunning sight. Finally, after 8000 miles, we’re here at Chile’s Torres del Paine. Out of the flat pampa, countless ice and rock pea...
Nilgiri Parbat Attempt and Ascent. Indians V. Shankar, leader, Vinay Hegde, Vivek Hegde and Dinesh Shertate set up Base Camp three kilometers below the snout of the Khulia Garvia Glacier on May 20. They set up three more high camps on the western ...
AAC, Cascade Section. The Cascade Section held three events in 2001. The first was the Goran Kropp slideshow on July 13. Organized by Helly Hansen and sponsored by the AAC, this was the amazing story of Goran’s bicycle journey from Sweden to Kathm...
Mont Blanc Massif, Volume I: Selected Climbs. Lindsay Griffin, general editor Les Swinden. Alpine Club, London. 268 pages, 30 diagrams (topos), 87 black -and-white photographs with route markings.This is the third updated edition of the first of t...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWashington, North Cascades, Liberty BellOn August 14, Stim Bullit (75) and I (47) were climbing the third pitch (I led the first two pitches)—a crack above a ledge. Stim got to the crux of the 5.8 crack, couldn’t f...
Cerro Stanhardt, Tomahawk and Exocet, Ascents. The Bridwell-Smith route Exocet on the southeast face of Cerro Stanhardt remains the most popular venue on this tower, and the 1995- ’96 season was no different. However, despite many attempts, it is ...
Rajuntay, West Face and Other Climbs. E. López and A. Tordoya, of the Club Andino Peruano, made the first ascent of Rajuntay (5477 meters, 17,970 feet) in the local winter or rainy season (April 20, 1980). They climbed the east face, experiencing ...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK and INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPPELERROR, DISLODGED ROCKNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksOf the sixteen accidents related to climbing in this popular, easily accessed area, we have a typical profile for the majority of cas...