Ekdant (6,128m), north spur and northeast ridge; Kartik (5,113m), north face. Ashes from the Iceland volcano threatened our flight, but Paulo Roxo and I arrived in Delhi as planned, on May 11. Our goal was the virgin Parvati Parbat (6,257m) above ...

P 6910 and the “Throne,” “Little Switzerland,” within the Big Bend of the Kahiltna. Ron Baird, Ned Lewis and I put up new routes on two granite buttresses extending southwest off P 6910. (First ascent via northwest couloir in 1976 by Roger Robinso...

Mesón Alto, Central Chile. J. Ambrús and G. Oyarzún of the University of Chile made the first ascent of the south face of Mesón Alto (17,380 feet). This wall of ice, one of the steepest in central Chile, took the climbers three days to climb. They...

K2 Attempt from the North. Russians Alexei Klimin, Ms. Elena Glushko, Nikolai Yurakovski and I as leader, Mexican Ricardo Torres and Germans Wolfgang Knohenhauer and Hans Stegmair sought to climb the North Ridge of K2 but we were unsuccessful. Ori...

Mount Rainier, Tahoma Cleaver Variation. While making the second ascent of Tahoma Cleaver on June 16, Gene Prater, Tom Stewart, Steve Marts and I found we were forced to make a major variation from the original route. The lower part of the previou...

Kangchenjunga Attempt and Base Camp Cleanup. When I went to Yalung Kang (west summit of Kangchenjunga) in 1987 I was both surprised and saddened to find garbage at BC. I left with the hope that I would be able to return with the economic support n...

Carnes and Bridgeland Peaks, Northern Selkirks. On July 16, with David Michael, Graham Matthews and Jed Williamson, we left Downie Creek Auto Court and drove up a logging road some seven miles south of Downie Creek. By this we gained 2000 feet of ...

Gothic Nightmare. The Gothic Nightmare was the last of the three Mystery Towers to be climbed. It lies 34 miles east of the Fisher Towers and 20 miles east of Moab. Don Briggs, George Hurley, and I had teamed up in 1969 for first ascents of the Do...

Cascade Section. We had an active year in the Cascade Section starting off in January with our annual dinner at the Red Hook Brewery, where we were treated to several excellent presentations. Steve Swenson—then-vice president of the American Alpin...

Huantsán, North Ridge. Our team was composed of Rémy Auda, Pascal Bonnier, Genviève and Jean Paul Bouquier, Laurent Coursol, Pierre Ferry and me. On August 8 we made the third ascent of the north ridge of Huantsán, but our approach to the ridge di...

Mount Thor, Ascent and Tragedy. A team of Parks Canada rescue specialists were in Auyuittuq late last August in response to a climbing accident on Mt. Thor. A solo climber named Go Abe from Japan was overdue on his second attempt on a central line...

A.A.C., Oregon Section. The Oregon Section has begun tests on the various types of ice screws and ice pitons currently available on the open market. We hope to continue these tests extensively in 1965 and to have substantial data available in the ...

Chimney Rock, East Face, Selkirk Mountains. This lone sentinel of northern Idaho on the southern edge of the Selkirks offers a pleasant compromise between high country alpine climbs and low country rock climbs with its firm granite and gentle alpi...

Cascade Section. On April 8, with the Climbing Club of the University of Washington, we hosted a presentation by Hans Florine, speed climber extraordinaire, showcasing his record climb of the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite with Yuji Hirayama (2hrs...

Marmolejo, North Face. Juan Pardo, Dagoberto Peña, Nelson Rivera, Cristián Peña and I made the first ascent of the 7000-foot-high north face of Marmolejo (6100 meters, 20,013 feet), which had resisted four previous attempts. On February 1 we climb...

Painted Wall, Journey Through Mirkwood. In August Jonathan Copp and I descended the S.O.B. Gully at 3:00 a.m. hoping to make the first free ascent of Journey Through Mirkwood on the Painted Wall. This 2,000-foot route was one of the few older rout...

FritzRoy, French Attempt on Northeast Buttress. An 11-man French group headed by F. Guillot and J. Kelle early in 1968 attempted the northeast buttress of FitzRoy but got only about halfway up because of continuous bad weather.

Eichorn Pinnacle, A Celebrity’s Holiday. In June, Bruce Brossman and I climbed the long straight-in crack system to the left of the West Pillar route. The crack does not quite reach the ground. Four pitches of sometimes difficult-to-protect climbi...

Cerro Tone, Ascent by Southwest Face. After the death of Toni Egger on the descent, Cesare Maestri returned to the base of 9908-foot Cerro Torre, stating that the pair had made the first ascent of this fantastic ice-sheathed needle on January 31, ...

Middle West. The Safety Committee of the Iowa Mountaineers reports that a clearly defined program was adopted in January 1949. Jointly with the State University of Iowa, the club is sponsoring a course in “Outings and Mountaineering” (two hours a ...