ALTITUDE SICKNESS, BAD WEATHER, AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn July 19, three members of the four-man Spanish Volaska expedition to the West Buttress of Mount McKinley were descending from the 16,000-foot camp because Gomis Zaragoza had develop...
Jetiboburani, Nampa Group. A seven-man Japanese expedition from Shinshu University made the first ascent of Jetiboburani (22,470 feet), which lies south of Nampa. The leader was Kazuhiko Yamada. They climbed the east ridge. The summit was reached ...
The Wind River Range in WyomingKenneth A. HendersonIT is not generally appreciated that in Wyoming is to be found one of the most alpine regions of the American Rockies. In fact to one who has visited the western mountains elsewhere the sight of t...
Foraker, Talkeetna Ridge. On May 3, Dave Auble and I left the Kahiltna Glacier to attempt the second ascent of Foraker’s Talkeetna Ridge, first climbed by Bertulis, Bleser, Baer, and Williamson in 1968 (A.A.J., 1969, pp. 289-294). Our approach too...
FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinleyClaudia Berryman was a member of the guided eight-member Fantasy Ridge expedition to the West Rib of Mount McKinley. The expedition was guided by Michael Covington, who is the director.The expedition flew into the So...
Iowa Mountaineers Cordillera Blanca Expedition: Thirty-three members met in Lima, Peru on July 4 and during the next six days established Base Camp on a meadow at 13,500 feet in the Llanganuco valley (also but less correctly spelled “Yanganuco” ) ...
On December 22, 1999, Sean Easton and I arrived at the entrance of Torres del Paine National Park with four porters. In three days, with the help of the porters, we managed to move most of our gear to our chosen Advanced Base Camp at the base of...
“Mystery Towers” and The Hindu. These “Mystery Towers”, hidden in a wild maze of red sandstone, are 3/4 mile east of the Fisher Towers, 20 miles northeast of Moab. George Hurley had seen one of them from the summit of the Titan. George and I retu...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Andromeda, Practice GulliesOn June 4, two climbers left the climber’s parking lot at 0500 enroute to the Practice Gullies (III) on Mount Andromeda. These inappropriately named ...
Spider Mountain, North Face. A climb of the hook-shaped snow finger leading directly to the summit.
FALL ON ROCKNew Hampshire, Iron MountainOn June 12, 1983, three hikers were descending from Iron Mountain when one of them got too close to the edge of a cliff and fell 100 meters to a ledge. (Source: Rick Wilcox. New Hampshire Mountain Rescue Ser...
Appalachian Mountain Club. Growth in almost all phases of A.M.C. activity dominated its 88th year: membership showed the greatest gain in history with a net increase of 627 for a total of 8,858 members at year end; so many persons showed up for th...
Renamed Nepalese Peaks. On January 1, 1983 the Nepalese government considered renaming a number of peaks and geographical features, but this is not yet official.Past NamePresent NamePast NamePresent NameCross PeakTaple ShikharLady’s PeakGumba Chul...
Mischief Goes South, by H. W. Tilman. London: Hollis & Carter, 1968. 190 pages, 18 photographs, 3 maps. Price: 30s.Mischief Goes South is the fifth in a series of sea narratives by this mountaineer turned sailor. Tilman, whose distinguished mo...
It was reported that Spanish climbers Sílvia Vidal and Pep Masip established Veus del Desert (6b+ A4+, ten pitches) on the middle of the southeast face of the south summit of the 400-meter Suri Tondo. The first five pitches were almost entirely ai...
In April, Tory Dugan, Jason Kwiatkowski, and I began a month-long kite-assisted ski expedition with a goal of traveling from the Hubbard Glacier to the Miles Glacier, a distance of nearly 200 miles. We skied many couloirs and features along our ro...
Mazamas. Unusually good weather gave The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, the opportunity to start 140 climbs during the 1965 season, with 1902 individual ascents resulting. New summits to the club were Mounts Garfield and Washington, Wilmon Peak, Klo...
North Twin, north face, House-Prezelj. In early April 2004 American Steve House and Slovenian Marko Prezelj made the third ascent (Lowe-Jones, 1974; Blanchard-Cheesmond, 1985) of the daunting 4,500' north face of North Twin, one of the great prize...
Stanford Coast Range Expedition, 1954NICHOLAS B. CLINCHAt noon, June 25th, Bill Fisk, chief pilot for Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc., landed his red Norseman float plane so gently on the waters of Dumbell (Ghost) lake that his seven passengers never kne...
In mid-April photographer Corey Rich asked if I wanted to join a 10-day climbing trip in the Brooks Range with the man himself, Tommy Caldwell. How could I say no? The trip came together last minute, and we didn’t even know where we were going...