FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION AND BELAY, HAPE, FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinley, South ButtressOn May 27, Nancy Bluhm (32) of the “Dancing Fools” expedition was airlifted by helicopter from the South Buttress of Mount McKinley after sustainin...
Those who do not believe in God might reconsider their position when scanning through Shiro Shirahata’s photographs of the Karakoram, especially if you are a mountain climber. At almost every page of The Karakoram, you will be impressed. Is the ...
RICHARD M. HURD1865-1941In the death of Richard M. Hurd, the American Alpine Club loses one of its original members (1902). In 1885, when he was barely 20, he ascended Matterhorn, Gross Glockner and Monte Cristallo, two of his guides on the Glockn...
Difficult Peaks of the Sierra NevadaNorman ClydeON NUMEROUS occasions the writer has received inquiries as to the character of the mountaineering which the Sierra Nevada affords. In reply it might be said that compared with the Alps or the Canadia...
Cho Oyu 2005 - blood samples at very high altitude. In the autumn of 2005, the Anglo-Irish Xtreme Everest Expedition to Cho Oyu (8,188m) undertook a number of ambitious scientific projects at high altitude. The seven-man team, which comprised Roge...
Paine Group, Torre Innominata, Patagonia. The Italians Armando Aste and Franco Solina were joined in the Argentine by Italian residents of that country, Cesarino Fava, Fausto Barozzi, Mario Castillazo and Filippo Frasson, and the Argentine Alberto...
The Lunar PeaksAnderson BakewellIf the present trend of events in Europe continues we shall have to go far afield for our expeditions. This has led to the suggestion that the Mountains of the Moon be investigated. To be sure, the Duke of Abruzzi a...
Journey across the North Patagonian Icecap. The party, Cedomir Maran- gunic, Eduardo García, Miguel Gómez and I, reached Laguna San Rafael on November 25, 1963, in a launch kindly provided by the Intendente of Aisen. Two days were spent getting th...
Some American Climbs in 1934Alfred E. Roovers[The material which follows is based on a portion of a diary kept by our fellow-member, and which, before his accidental death on the cliff at Arden in December, 1934, he marked for use in preparing a p...
The Arizona Mountaineering Club. The AzMC’s membership totaled 483 at year-end 2002. Given the increased popularity of rock climbing and climbing gyms, the AzMC is competing with an increasing number of climbing venues and providers. Rock climbing...
Cerro Torre— The Eleventh FailureLeo Dickinson, Alpine Climbing GroupIT would now seem possible that eleven expeditions have failed to reach the elusive summit of Cerro Torre. The only one not proven to be a failure is Maestri’s original north fac...
After my first ascent in 2007 of Bawangshan (5,551m) in the Qonglai Shan (AAJ 2008), I wondered what my next target should be. It didn’t take long to find a mountain that fit my criteria: unclimbed, prominent, beautiful, and with easy access...
Yerupajá, West Face Direct. The Germans Ulrich Eberhard and Hans Martin Götz completed the first direct ascent of the west face of Yerupajá on June 28, 1977, some two weeks before the French ascent. (The face had been climbed before by less direct...
When the Alps Cast Their Spell: Mountaineers of the Alpine Golden Age. Trevor Braham. Glasgow, The In Pinn (Neil Wilson Publishing), 2004. 314 pages, colored plates. Hardcover. $30.00When the judges gave the 2004 Boardman-Tasker Award for the best...
Handholds to HeavenHard free-climbing on the rock walls of Pakistan’s Charakusa Valley.Nicolas FavresseBeep, beep, beep.… It’s one a.m. I wake in the middle of one of those dreams where nothing makes sense. It seems as though I’ve barely fallen as...
California, San Gabriel Mountains (2)—On November 19, Joseph High- cove (18), and Walter Reber (18) left Icehouse Resort, in the San Gabriel Mountains, for a climb up Icehouse Canyon to Icehouse Saddle. From there the pair planned to climb any one...
Releasing BellavistaSeventy years ago the Tre Cime Group in the Dolomites was home to the world's boldest and most overhanging aid climbs. The overhangs are still there—and so is the boldness—only now they're beginning to go free.Alexander HuberMo...
Chomolhari, north face, and Chomolhari, northwest pillar. A Slovenian expedition comprising Rok Blagus, Tine Cuder, Matej Kladnik, Samo Krmelj, Boris Lorencic, and Marko Prezelj, accompanied by a doctor, Damijan Mesko, established base camp at 5,0...
There is a rare feeling of completeness and calm that can only come after concerted effort and toil, sacrifice and vision. As the Beaver lifted off from the Kahiltna, and Jay and I headed for Talkeetna and home, I felt more at peace than I can eve...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Most of the Club’s effort during 1962 was devoted to the construction of a log cabin on Mount Washington. The old cabin in Tuckerman Ravine had been scheduled for replacement for several years because of its age and ea...