YearNumber of Accidents ReportedTotalPersonsInvolvedInjuredKilledUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA- CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942-256-231-019-2196047-464-1237-819-4196149-961-1445-101...
Mascioli’s PillarA tribute to a climbing friend on the south buttress of Denaliby Steve HouseThin evening shadows stretch out before us as we ski up the Kahiltna Glacier. The tip of Mt. Hunter glows red above and The Great One holds her usual mass...
Kamchatka exploration. Our self-sufficient, four-person team—Melis Coady, Aubrey Knapp, Keri Meagher, and myself—made the first ski-mountaineering expedition to the Pinechevo Pass area on Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula. With support from the America...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING GEAR IN PACKS-CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area, Sherpa PeakOn September 25, Otto Vaclavek (53) died of hypothermia after falling between 100 and 150 feet down an ice slope and over a cliff. Vaclavek ha...
Scottish winter season summary. Late January 2005. The last vestiges of a pathetic wet snowfall are swept from the hills by yet another howling, warm, maritime wind. Temperatures on the sodden summits rise to 6°C. Only a handful of interesting rou...
Tiger of the Snows. The Autobiography of Tenzing of Everest with James Ramsey Ullman. 294 pages, 26 illustrations, 5 maps and sketches. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1955. Price $4.50.This is a remarkable book. Mr. Ullman has succeeded in seeing ...
Trisul Attempts and Tragedy. An 8-member Polish expedition led by Michal Kochanczak attempted to climb Trisul (7120 meters, 23,360 meters) from the west in August and September. In bad weather they got to 6700 meters. Mrs. Anna Bruzdowicz Dudek di...
Meeting the Mountains. Harish Kapadia. Indus Publishing Company, New Delhi, 1998. 49 black-and-white photos. 30 maps. 398 pages. $27 (Order directly from ; reference IN 01019.)We mountaineers like to think of ourselves as individualists, but most ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY - ROPE TOO SKINNY FOR BELAY DEVICE (GRIGRI)Kentucky, Red River Gorge, Torrent FallsOn April 11, Marie Abernathey (early 20s) was leading Dream of a Bee (5.8), a well-bolted sport climb at the Torrent Falls area of Re...
EDMOND STEPHEN MEANY 1862-1935Edmond Stephen Meany was born in East Saginaw, Michigan, December 28, 1862. He died in Seattle, Washington, April 22nd, 1935.Few men, in the span of a single life, contribute broadly to widely divergent fields of huma...
Yosemite Climbs. George Meyers & Don Reid. Chockstone Press, Inc., Denver, 1987. 433 pages, monochrome photos, line drawings, maps. $22.00 (paper).Yosemite Valley has some of the best granite rock climbing in the world. It also has crime, pove...
Kedarnath Dome. One of the 11 members of the Reserve Bank of India team, Panchanan Bhattacharjee, and two Sherpas, Karma and Wangdi, climbed Kedarnath Dome (22,400 feet) on October 9.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Voices from the Summit: The World’s Great Mountaineers on the Future of Climbing. Edited by Bernadette McDonald and John Amatt. Adventure Press/National Geographic, in association with The Banff Centre for Mountain Culture, 2000. Approximately 110...
On Tuesday May 17, American Alpine Club (AAC) Executive Director Phil Powers (50) took four of his employees—Keegan Young, Penn Burris, Sarah Wood, and Deanne Buck—climbing at High Wire Crag in Clear Creek Canyon, a popular and accessible sport cl...
JIRISHANCAA climbing history of the Hummingbird Peak’s southeast face, Peru.Jeremy FrimerNo range is more identified by a single event than Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash. In the shadow of Touching the Void lies a spectacular group of mountains, comp...
PARTY BECOMING SEPARATED—Wyoming, Tetons. Christopher Church (20) and David Hamilton (23) were climbing the Owen-Spalding route when they experienced a hailstorm. They descended from a point just above the rappel to the Upper Saddle via the standa...
Walker Citadel Southeast Face. Paul Gagner and Rick Lovelace climbed a new route, Superunknown (VI 5.10 A3) on the southeast face of the Walker Citadel in Sam Ford Fjord over the course of 22 days. The story of their climb and subsequent problemat...
Yunnan Province, Hengduan Shan, ascent of Peak 4,750, attempt on Baimang Shan, and reconnaissance of Meilixueshan and Habaxueshan areas. During April and May Paul Macleman and I visited the Hengduan mountains of northwestern Yunnan Province. This ...
Noshaq. We set up our Base Camp at 15,000 feet at the northwest foot of Noshaq. On July 25 the entire team, Charles Brush, James Caruthers, Robert Emrick, Jay Gingrich, Walter Hotchkiss and I climbed Korpusht-e-Yakhi (18,688 feet). On July 30 we p...
Royal Navy East Greenland Expedition. A 12-man Royal Navy expedition visited the Angmagssalik area of East Greenland between July and September. The main aim was exploratory mountaineering in an unexplored group of peaks of Schweizerland (66° 30' ...