LIGHTNING–POOR POSITIONUtah, Canyonlands National Park, Lightning Bolt CracksThe incident happened on Thursday, April 12 at about 12:15 p.m. Peter Carrick (Assistant Manager for Pacific Edge Climbing Gym) and I (Pat Kent) were on Lightning Bolt Cr...
Pan American Story— El Gran Trono BlancoPaul PianaIHAVE ALWAYS ADMIRED LIONEL TERRAY and his choice of climbing objectives. Terray lived in the greatest era of climbing, an era when he could choose nearly any objective. He didn’t choose a goal mer...
Isolation Peak 1, first ascent; Mt. Shiverick, West Ridge. Mike King flew Pat Callis, Dan Davis, Mickey Schurr, and me into a camp between Isolation Peak 7 and Peak 2,488m on the Isola- tion-Malamute Glacier Divide on July 23. We climbed these pea...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILEDCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Cathedral PeakOn July 2, Aaron (28), Mark (48), Chad (28), and Brian (49) started up the West Pillar of Eichorn Pinnacle (five pitches, 5.9 or 5.10b). Brian was unable to manage...
When Ged Desforges, Ruben Gutzat, Dan McManus, Tom Spreyer, Tony Stone, James Vybiral, and I arrived in the Hermelndal below the imposing towers of the Tininnertuup group and the awesome sweep of walls of the Hermelnbjerg, only a handful of routes...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 16, 1986, Thierry Broisat (30), Michel Legras (27), Patricia Tuveri (25) and Jean-Francois Tuveri (27), members of the French “Edelweiss” expedition to climb the Wes...
BESIDES the 8000-meter giants, the Karakoram contains countless attractive smaller peaks. Though much lower, they often make up in difficulty what they lack in altitude. On the northern edge of the Biafo Glacier rise the Ogre (Baintha Brakk) and t...
Tawoche Attempt. Ten Britons and Americans were led by Scott Mal Duff on a guided climb on the southwest face to the southeast ridge of Tawoche. None of the clients got higher than 6100 meters, but after they left, on October 2 Duff and the other ...
RAPPEL ERROR-ANCHOR FAILUREArizona, Sycamore Canyon, Paradise ForksOn November 5, Shelley Windsor (31) had been climbing on several routes at Paradise Forks, Sycamore Canyon with her climbing partner Mark Brenner (26). During the climbs and rappel...
Army Service ForcesOffice of the Quartermaster GeneralWashington 25, D. C.SPQRD 201Case, John C.19 December 1945Mr. John C. Case President, American Alpine Club 140 East 46th Street New York, New YorkDear Mr. Case:This office wishes to express its...
Louise Boyd Land, first ascents. We were expecting things to go wrong, but for the first few days of our two months in Greenland, very little seemed to go right. Our Cambridge University expedition comprised Natalie Clegg, Sam Harrison, Madeleine ...
MAX E. FRIEDMANN1890-1954Max E. Friedmann, member of the American Alpine Club since 1942, died suddenly of a heart attack on a train approaching Chicago March 31, 1954. Mrs. Friedmann and he had been in the Virgin Islands for a winter holiday and ...
Mount Upton and Other Peaks. In 1968, Philip P. Upton made the first landing at the Arctic Institute of North America’s Mount Logan High Camp at 5300 meters. There followed 500 more plane trips without incident to that most inhospitable site. The ...
Mount McKinleyMilan Kriššak Memorial RoutePhilip JohnsonTHE CHANCE FOR an Englishman to climb with a Czechoslovak mountaineering expedition must be, in the ordinary course of events, relatively slim. That I had that opportunity was due to a combin...
HENRY WELTY COULTER, JR.1920-1996Henry (Hank) Welty Coulter, a prominent and distinguished older member of the American Alpine Club, died of a pulmonary ailment on February 12, 1996, in Lebanon, New Hampshire. He had spent most of his life in Wash...
Henry P. Karstens—1878-1955FRANCIS P. FARQUHARNo one has been more intimately connected with Mount McKinley than Harry Karstens, who died November 28, 1955, in Fairbanks, Alaska. He lived the greater part of his life within sight of the mountain, ...
Dos Picos, Cordillera del Río Tigre. Three expeditions visited this rugged region, which lies about 80 miles south of Bariloche, west of Cholila. The members of the Club Andino Esquel, who made the first ascent of the south (highest) tower of the ...
TullparajuDavid BernaysTULLPARATU. a 18,986-foot ice peak, stands on the continental divide in the Cordillera Blanca, seventeen miles northeast of the town of Huaraz. By the spring of 1962 both European and South American mountaineers agreed that ...
Trango Nameless Tower, Eternal Flame and Yugoslav routes, Ascents, and Variation. From June 23 to August 11, the Saxon-Swiss Trango Tower Expedition 2000, led by Jens Richter, made ascents of Trango Nameless Tower via Eternal Flame and the Yugosla...
February 2009 saw first ascents of two of Norway’s, and probably the world’s, most inspiring and adventurous ice lines: Fosslimonster (800m, WI6+ M8+) and Into the Wild (900m, WI6+ X), both located on the west coast. The lines were climbed by an i...