Colorado, North Maroon. On 15 August Edward H. Hilliard (47), and Ann Noyes Fowler (39), Rodney Aller (53), and Rodney Aller, Jr. (21) started at 7:00 a.m. from the bench at timber line below the dam on the northeast side of the North Maroon.There...
The complete reports of the climbing accomplished by the Andes Expedition of the D. u. O. A. V. has just appeared in its Zeitschrift for 1929. The purely mountaineering aspects of the trip were often subordinated to the necessity of assisting in t...
The Mountaineer’s Companion, edited by Michael Ward. London: Eyre & Spottiswoode, Ltd., 1966. 598 pages, 24 black and white photographs, 1 color photograph, 20 drawings, 3 maps. Price 50s.This excellent British anthology of writings on mountai...
Shivling, Northeast Face. Paolo Bernascone, Fabrizio Manoni and I as leader got to Base Camp on June 3. From June 4 to 12 we reconnoitered the normal route and our objective, the unclimbed northeast face. After three rest days, we set out at eight...
Koh-i-Safed, Warmano Valley. The Tokyo Gakugei University expedition, led by Izomu Ikeba and Akio Yamada, had 11 members. Leaving Kabul on July 21, they crossed the Anjuman on the 30th and reached Base Camp at 12,500 feet in the Warmano valley on ...
McKinley North Summit, Telemark Ski Descent of Wickersham Wall. Starting on May 5, Tyson Bradley and John Montecucco made a ski descent of the rarely climbed Wickersham Wall. They dropped down from Kahiltna Pass to the Peters Glacier. They climbed...
Everest Map, Second Edition. A second edition of the National Geographic map of Mount Everest, 1:50,000, will appear in June. It is being published by the Boston Museum of Science and the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research in Zürich. This editio...
Ak Su, north face, new route in winter. Before climbing Ak-Su (5,355m), we already had expedition experience on big walls in winter, which proved very useful. We decided to climb a new route because Balezin had seen the possibility of an interesti...
Annapurna II. The members of the Sangaku Doshikai expedition were Yukio Takafu, Nobuyuki Ogawa, Katsuyuki Kondo, Nase Sakashita, Dr. Tashitaka Sakano and I as leader. We repeated the route done from the north in 1971 by Shinshu University. We asce...
Hypoxia: The Tolerable Limits. John R. Sutton, Charles S. Houston and Geoffrey Coates, editors. Benchmark Press, Indianapolis, 1988. 380 pages, charts, tables. $48.00.This record of the Fifth International Symposium on Hypoxia consists of thirty c...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDIllinois, Mississippi Palisades State ParkOn October 3,1993, a man (mid-20s) fell 25 feet while freesoloing a route. The extent of his injuries is not known. (Source: From an article in the Quad City Times, August 30,...
Mountaineering Expeditions in the Soviet Union During 1933Interest in mountaineering and mountain exploration in the Soviet Union has been increasing from year to year. It is looked upon not only as a valuable form of recreation but also as an act...
Shisha Pangma Central (West) Summit. An international group followed the normal route to the central summit, but they made no attempt to reach the higher main summit. On May 26, the leader, New Zealander Russell Brice, Australian Mark Lemaire, Nor...
In West Mustang, on the border with Tibet, lies Araniko Chuli (6,034m). The name is not Tibetan, so who christened this peak and why? This is a bizarre story of alpinism in which mysterious characters cross paths over the centuries. It begins with...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, near summit of Mount Teewinot— On 27 July, James B. Rast (20) and Richard P. Holleman (20) had just completed an ascent of Mount Teewinot and were starting to descend when Holleman tried to use a rock projection...
FALL—AFTER CLIMB COMPLETED—California, Tahquitz. Stan Klein, a climber from Loma Prieta Chap. RCS who has moved to LA, was making his second climb of the day with Jim McPherson. Stan led the last pitch of Graham Crackers. He completed the move at ...
Early Morning Spire, Southwest Face variation. On July 4, Lowell Skoog, Gary Brill and I climbed the southwest face of Early Morning Spire. Where the face steepens two-thirds of the way up, we varied from the original line. Instead of climbing the...
LIGHTNINGBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Snowpatch SpireA.B. and B.A. were descending the Kraus-McCarthy rappel route in August when an electrical storm developed. Lightning struck the top of the Spire when they were about four ...
Nanda Devi East, east face, attempt. Marco Dalla Longa led a 12-member Italian expedition to attempt the first ascent of the east face of Nanda Devi East (7,434m). The team approached via Munsiary and the Milam Valley, establishing base camp on Au...
Abi Gamin, Ascent by a One-Legged Man. When Baba Manindra Pal was 19, he lost a leg in a railroad accident. The next year he became a sadhu. He led an ascetic life of severe self-discipline, learning to live “on snow and stone with little food and...