Ski Traverses, Mount Logan, St. Elias, Steele, Hubbard, Alverstone, Icefield Ranges. During the 1981 climbing season there were 19 groups, made up of 95 men and women, climbing and skiing in the Icefield Ranges of Kluane National Park. During the ...
Accounts from the various climbs and expeditions of the world are listed geographically from north to south and from west to east within the noted countries. We begin our coverage with the Contiguous United States and move to Alaska in order for t...
Mount McKinley and Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1983. The two climbers successfully reached the top of a difficult first ascent in the Alaska Range, but their luck ran out on the descent. After a serious fall where inj...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT, PROTECTION PULLED, INEXPERIENCEOntario, Milton, Kelso CragsOn Sunday, August 15 P.D. (36) of Tonawanda, New York, began leading a 5.3 one-pitch route. He placed only sparse protection. Part way up, he switched to a nearb...
The email read, “Bob, do you know where there are any big walls to climb in Greenland? We did some on Mt. Asgard in Baffin last summer and would like to do some in Greenland in 2011.”To which I responded, “Well, yes I do know where there are some ...
Yoho-Waputik Icefield. The Guidebook describes inadequately the southern portion of the Yoho-Waputik group containing the approaches to and routes on Mts. Niles and Daly.Trail to Sherbrooke Lake starts from the highway immediately W. of the Wapta ...
Ndoto LogisticsAdvice to climbers headed for the Ngurunit Valley and beyond.Marnix BuonajutiThe major cliffs vary in their distance from the village of Ngurunit. This is important because Ngurunit provides your supply of food and water. The closes...
Sean Patrick 1951–2009Sean Patrick, founder of the HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation, died of complications related to ovarian cancer on January 20 at Aspen Valley Hospital in Colorado. Patrick was loved by many, and her passion for saving the lives ...
DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1987 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARYMount McKinleyExpeditionsClimbersSuccessfulClimbersWest Buttress154483165West Buttress (Guided)2720456Muldrow130Muldrow (Guided)1140West Rib64412West Rib (Guided)2130Cassin8179Cassin (Gu...
Bold Beyond Belief: Bill Denz, New Zealand’s Mountain Warrior. Paul Maxim. Maxim Books, 2011. 303 pages. Paperback. $49.95.Paul Maxim has written the only biography of Bill Denz, New Zealand’s luminary climber during two decades centered on the se...
The Villain: A Portrait of Don Whillans. James Perrin. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2005. 360 pages, b&w photos. Softcover. $16.95.Here’s a Whillans story I’ve been dining off for the last five years, told to me by a Brit climber who was 2...
Glen Aulin Area, Yosemite National Park. A number of fine routes have been done in this area over the past few years. The best approach is from near Pothole Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. This cross-country approach is much quicker than the trail from ...
We Aspired: The Last Innocent Americans, Pete Sinclair. Utah State University Press, Logan, Utah. 1993. 239 pages.As a twenty-three-year-old climber in 1959, Pete Sinclair was quoted in Time magazine: “You can’t describe climbing to people. They d...
Bitterroot Mountains, Spirolina Tower and Corner With a View. Trapper Creek’s Spirolina Tower was named after its first ascent in 1977, by Craig Kenyon and Tom Cosgriff via the southwest corner (5-6 pitches, 5.8). The tower was notable to Kenyon b...
High Infatuation, A Climber’s Guide to Love and Gravity. Steph Davis. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2007.224 pages. Black and white photos. $16.95High Infatuation, Steph Davis’ collection of memoirs and essays, is a journey through her climbing...
Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge. The east ridge of Bugaboo Spire was climbed for the first time on August 8 by two ropes: J. M. Turner and R. D. Sykes; D. Croft and D. Isles. We scrambled to the Bugaboo- Crescent col from the south side and roped-up on ...
Colchuck Balanced Rock, tucked between the river valleys and high glacier plateaus of the Stuart Range, has become firmly established as one of Washington state’s premier alpine free-climbing zones. Max Hasson and I were thrilled to add a new rout...
Harvard 1952 Brooks—Mather ExpeditionThayer ScudderTHE afternoon of 25 June 1952 four members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club sat at McKinley Park Station waiting for the freight from Fairbanks. It was a pleasant wait, our first real rest since...
Various ascents. My father, Charles B. Daellenbach of Albany, Oregon, Scott McGee of Anchorage, Alaska, Fred Skemp III of La Crosse, Wisconsin, and I, of Portland, Oregon, took a helicopter transport from Juneau to the Gilkey Trench in the Coast R...
AVALANCHE, UNSTABLE CONDITIONS, UNSAFE POSITIONOregon, Mount HoodOn June 20, 1982, an avalanche struck three members of a climbing group at the 3150-meter level of Mount Hood, killing Hugh Hake (45) and injuring Charles Hysmith (31) and Dean Tehee...