Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Ice, Standing Directly Below Ice Climber California, Lee Vining Canyon

On January 24, 1988, Bill Isherwood (46) and Bill McConachie (36) hiked with two companions to the ice climbing area in Lee Vining Canyon. McConachie proceeded to lead the first pitch of the middle ice fall while Isherwood belayed from a semiprote...

| Published 1988


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Ganchen Group

Ganchen Group. Chris Forrest and I reached the Sosbun Glacier on July 30 after a three-day walk from Dasso with five porters. We had originally hoped to attempt the rocky spires that make up the peaks of the west Biafo wall. However, on this side ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Torre, Slovenian Start Variation, and Aguja Poincenot, Italian Route, First Integral Ascent

Cerro Torre, Slovenian Start variation, and Aguja Poincenot, Italian Route, first integral ascent. On January 17, 2005, our small team from Slovenia, Patagonian veteran Silvo Karo, my wife Tanja Grmovsek, and Monika Kambic-Mali, and I settled down...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Rio Blanco Group

Río Blanco Group. In January 1955 Jorge and Sergio Domicelj, Juan Guthmann, Fredy Klayman, and Carlos Stegmann of the Centro Andino, Buenos Aires, climbed in the Río Blanco Group, which lies just to the south of Aconcagua. From a base camp at 10,3...


Accident Reports ANAM
New Hampshire, Mt. Jefferson

New Hampshire, Mt. Jefferson. On 11 August at 1300 a sudden and violent thunder storm struck Mt. Jefferson and the surrounding area. Numerous hikers were in the area at the time; some thirty sought refuge at the Edmonds Col Emergency Shelter. The ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Bugaboo Spire, East Face

Bugaboo Spire, East Face. All winter I longed to return to the rock of the beautiful and inspiring east face of this peak after my attempt last year with Art Gran. This attempt, which had stopped only 500 feet short of the summit, had involved thr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Ascent

Nanga Parbat, Ascent. Our summit day, July 21, saw a multi-national group from three different expeditions depart CIV at about 4 a.m. In one team were two Koreans, in the second were three Koreans and their high-altitude porter, Rosi Ali, and in t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Attempt

Nanga Parbat Attempt. Todd Bibler, Harry Kent, Andy Lapkass and I attempted to climb Nanga Parbat from the Rupal valley. Our objective was to try the central pillar of the Rupal Face in as close to alpine-style as possible. We spent from July 5 to...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lamjung Attempt

Lamjung Attempt. Eight Japanese climbers led by Yoshiaki Sugiyama failed to climb 6983-meter (22,910-foot) Lamjung via the southeast ridge. On April 22, they reached their high point of 5950 meters.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Jangyaraju and Vallunaraju Group

Jangyaraju and Vallunaraju Group. On June 20, 28 members and friends of the Club Andinista Cordillera Blanca left Huaraz for the Quebrada Llaca as a weekend family affair. On June 21 the climbing members established camp at the base of the eastern...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kumaon and Garhwal, Bauljuri

Baljauri. An Indian expedition of ten was led by Basanta Singha Roy. On September 24, the leader reached the summit (5922 meters, 19,429 feet).Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Middle Teton, South Ridge

Middle Teton, South Ridge. On the Middle Teton between the southwest and southeast ridges, both of which lead to the south summit, is a jumbled area of rock and snow the uppermost portion of which contains a ridge that terminates on the southwest ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Trango Group, Trango Tower, Attempted Second Ascent, Solo

Trango Tower, attempted second ascent, solo. The highly experienced big wall climber Alfredo Madinabeitia (Norwegian Route on Great Trango, Amin Brakk, etc) attempted to make the second ascent, solo, of the Swiss-French Route on the West Pillar (P...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Chaturangi

Chaturangi. Jahar Guha Thakurta, Debu P. Bhattacharjee, B.S. Negi and Sherpa Kami climbed Chaturangi (20,975 feet) on September 27. P 20,270 above the Khalipet Glacier was climbed by Chanchal Muk- herjee, Somen Majumdar, Debu and Sherpas Chhunje a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, Pre-Monsoon Ascent and Attempt

Ama Dablam, Pre-Monsoon Ascent and Attempt. An expedition of 11 Americans and a Briton to Ama Dablam’s southeast ridge was led by Scott Fischer. On April 24, Americans Fischer and Stephen Shrader reached the summit. Slovenes Bojan Pockar and Štefa...


Club Activities AAJ
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Dartmouth climbers pulled down harder than ever before in New England, out west and beyond this year. During off-terms in the winter, Matt Holmes climbed with the Los Alamos Climbing Club at White Rock, Penitente, Sh...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains of Canada, Conrad Kain's Ascents of Mt. Robson

Conrad Kain’s Ascents of Mt. Robson. In a letter from Kain to a friend in Austria, received too late to be included in his book, he states in regard to his 1924 ascents: “In two weeks I have ascended Mt. Robson four times.” His round-trip times fr...


In Memoriam AAJ
Roger Marshall, 1941-1987

ROGER MARSHALL 1941–1987Roger Marshall died on May 21 while descending from an unsuccessful attempt on the Everest Superdirect. It was his second solo attempt on the route in less than a year. He is survived by two sons, Richard and Duncan.Bom in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Kiguti, Nirvana, and Attempt on The Fin

Kiguti, Nirvana, and Attempt on The Fin. Our expedition was composed of Pepe Chaverri, Javier Ballester and Daniel Ascaro, all of us from Huesca, Spain. We visited the Sam Ford Fjord, located 100 miles north of Clyde River. During our stay we mana...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Climbing Alone, North Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, Invisible Airways

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, CLIMBING ALONENorth Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, Invisible AirwaysOn the morning of April 12, Parker Kempf (21) was attempting an all clean aid (solo) ascent of Invisible Airways (A2) on the north side of Look...