FALL ON SNOW/ICE, MODERATE EXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn August 20, Scott Porter (32), Karl Ahrens (35) and Brian Nelson (32) were descending the upper Emmons Glacier after summiting. SMR members Kim Klasch and Bob Schumaker were on standb...

Peaks East of Pumasillo, Cordillera Vilcabamba. The Cucamonga Rambling Company Expedition spent one month, from June 25 to July 23, on the eastern side of the Pumasillo massif. Our group consisted of two women, Kathy Anderson1 and me1, and three m...

FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNorth Carolina, Doughton ParkOn January 19, Shawn Hansen (30) died after the anchors he was using to support his friend on an ice floe broke loose.Hansen's friend, Ed Williams (30) of Raleigh ...

Washington, Cascades, Monte Cristo Peak. On July 15, Val Comstock (66) and two companions were descending from the summit to join another party. The steep but excellent snow conditions and the beautiful weather encouraged sitting glissades. On one...

FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyBrian Bennett (21) and Alan Swanson (24) stated that they began climbing the Harding Route on Glacier Point Apron (Grade III, Y.D.S. 5.7), at 10...

Annapurna I, Northwest Ridge, New Route. A 10-member expedition (eight Poles, one Ukrainian and one American) led by Michal Kochanczyk, successfully surmounted the formidable unclimbed northwest ridge of Annapurna I, the world’s tenth highest moun...

British Columbia, Rockies, Mt. Vice-President. On 10 August J. A. Van Geldersen (26) of Vancouver, was climbing solo in Yoho National Park. He first climbed Mt. President, descended it safely, and then reached the top of Vice-President. While desc...

Palisade Traverse, second continuous ascent. Our climb consisted of a complete traverse of the Sierra Crest from Southfork Pass to the summit of Mt. Agassiz, a distance of approximately eight miles. This route is notable not only for its length bu...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONOntario, Dundas, Webster’s FallsOn February 7, 1982, Glenn Yates (21) and Graeme Smith (19) were ice climbing at Webster’s Falls. The following is an edited version of Smith’s account of the accident.After a good ...

Mount Humphreys Variation. In August, Mark Hoffman and I followed the regular route to a point just below the normal class-4 pitch, which climbs the left side of the ridge crest. We traversed to the right side of the ridge and climbed a thin crack...

FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Banff National Park, Moraine Lake, Schiesser Ledges RouteOn July 23, G.A. (62) was a member of a guided party that was on a multiday traverse in the ten peaks area in Banff National Park. The party had climbed up to The Neil C...

Oregon Section. The Oregon section has had a very busy year. Richard Bence Oregon section web master has kept the section in touch and working with Jeff Alzner and others to organize functions. Richard Bence hosts the Oregon section web site (http...

Makalu II Attempt. On our way to attempt Makalu II’s northwest ridge one of the loads containing the expedition’s ice tools fell into the Arun River, never to be seen again. One member raced back to Kathmandu to replace the lost equipment. After f...

Kangchenjunga, First Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1986. A 17-man Polish expedition led by Andrzej Machnik made the first winter ascent of the world’s third highest mountain. Base Camp was established on December 10 at 5100 meters. They climbed the f...

Bulgarian Ama Dablam Attempt. This Bulgarian expedition led by Venelin Petrov had hoped to climb a new route, the northwest ridge to the west face. They were badly delayed because cargo by truck from Bulgaria failed to arrive on time and they had ...

EDWARD LAURENCE DENNIS 1903–43Mr. Dennis, who died on May 16, 1943, was a former President of the Spokane Mountaineers. He was born in the Palouse Country of Washington, graduating from the State College in 1926. Heserved as captain in the Air Cor...

Ellsworth Mountains, Various Activity. We climbed the Vinson Massif in the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains via a new route on the southeastern side. Our expedition took place from December 19, 2000, to January 16, 2001. Our group consist...

Stefan Brunner and I, spent three weeks together in the Cochamó Valley at the end of January and beginning of February We found a great line on the far right side of the Profetas Wall, which is on the opposite side of the valley from Mt. Trinida...

On January 24, 1988, Bill Isherwood (46) and Bill McConachie (36) hiked with two companions to the ice climbing area in Lee Vining Canyon. McConachie proceeded to lead the first pitch of the middle ice fall while Isherwood belayed from a semiprote...

Ganchen Group. Chris Forrest and I reached the Sosbun Glacier on July 30 after a three-day walk from Dasso with five porters. We had originally hoped to attempt the rocky spires that make up the peaks of the west Biafo wall. However, on this side ...