Sunrise Wall. This wall, a short walk from Tuolumne Meadows, was first climbed in 1974 (A.A.J., 1975). In July, Steve Gerberding, Dimitri Barton and I climbed two new routes on it in a day. Pamplona starts in a large left-facing corner on the righ...
Paine group, Patagonia. A joint group of climbers of the Universidad de , Chile, Santiago and Club Mañke stayed most of January in the Paine massif. Their main goal was Cerro Catedral del Paine, (2300 meters or 7546 feet), located some six miles n...
LIGHTNING, POOR POSITION-LATE AFTERNOONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 12, Andy Haberkorn (28) was seconding his partner, Stanley Smigel, on a crux 5.10 pitch of the Casual Route on the Diamond of Longs Peak. As Haberkorn...
Elephant Head. A tower northwest of Dome Peak. The south side was climbed and was variously described as 5.5 and fourth class.
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonOn March 27, 1983, Mark Brockman (19) was descending Mount Washington via the Tuckerman Ravine Trail with a group from the Boston University Outing Club when he fell to ...
Kaga Tondo, Various Ascents. It was reported that in December, 1998, Claus Obrist, Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder put up the 600-meter Inshallah, which follows an obvious crack system to the left of Garmi Airlines (Griso-Lucas, 1985). Thre...
Latok I (23,439 feet) was finally climbed up the south face by a Japanese expedition led by Naoki Takada. The route ascended the buttress left of the couloir that divides Latok I and III. Base Camp was established on the Baintha Lukpar Glacier at ...
Gasherbrum IV Attempt. An eight-man Japanese expedition led by Yukio Katsumi failed to climb Gasherbrum IV by its west face. Base Camp was established on June 9. They placed four camps on the mountain, Camp IV at 20,350 feet. On July 29 a high poi...
"Shan Tower" Directly west of Squaretop, Bill Nicolai and I climbed a prominent tower at the north side of the head of a previously unvisited hanging valley. We called it “Shan Tower”. We began in a rotten chimney on the northeast side and travers...
STRANDEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleAt 0400 on July 27, 1987, two climbers (both about 30) left their bivouac at the base of the North Face of Mount Temple to begin climbing the Northeast Buttress. By evening they reached a large overhan...
Makalu Attempt. An Italian expedition of 11 was led by Almo Giambisi. They first wanted to repeat the Czechoslovakian route up the southeast buttress and reached 6800 meters on September 19. Strong winds forced them down the mountain and they wait...
Dhaulagiri VI, Gurja Himal and Ghustang North. A nine-man expedition, led by Shin Young-Chul, climbed both Dhaulagiri VI and Gurja Himal. Camp IV was placed at 6750 meters on the south ridge of Dhaulagiri VI on September 25 and the next day Shim B...
Dhaulagiri. After the Swiss failed to climb Dhaulagiri (26,811 feet) in 1953, Andre Roch declared, “Success on this peak seems a nearly hopeless undertaking. Dhaulagiri appears climbable, yes, but the risks are much too great.” The Argentines, how...
Copa Norte. On July 31, 1972 the Germans Wolfgang Nairz and Raimund Margreiter climbed the northern summit (20,353 feet) of Copa, which is about 100 feet lower than the south summit. They made most of this ascent, which had been done before, and t...
Olavtoppen (774m), first true ascent. The sub-Antarctic island of Bouvetoya is the most isolated piece of land on the planet, 1,740km from Antarctica and 2,600km from South Africa. Surrounded by rough seas and subject to severe weather, the island...
FALL ON ROCKColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 17, my partner Eric Baer (23) and I (William Esposito, 27) began climbing the Stettner’s Ledges Route (5.7+) on the east face of Longs Peak. On approximately the fourth pitch, I...
Saribung, a.k.a. Seliben (6,328m), first ascent. During October, Peter Ackroyd, Steve Furman, and I made the first ascent of this peak north of the Annapurnas. In 2002, while making the first ascent of 6,152m Gaugiri further north in the Damodar, ...
K2, Mexican-New Zealander-Swedish Attempt and Tragedy. A ten-member international expedition was composed of Mexicans Ricardo Torres, leader, Héctor Ponce de León, Adrián Benítez and Berta Ramírez, New Zealanders Rob Hall, Gary Ball and Marty Schm...
Le Grigne, by Silvio Saglio. 12 mo., 492 pages, 8 maps, 88 drawings and 56 photographs. Published by the Italian Alpine Club and the Italian Touring Club. 1937.An interesting and well-written guidebook describing that group of mountains which lies...
Between October 16 and November 3 David Kinsella (Australia), Arun Mahajan (India and US), and I explored mountains on the east side of the Thangsing Valley, climbing three summits as alpine-style one-day routes. This area, which we have named the...