North Palisade, Southwest Buttress. On June 29, Steve Porcella and I returned to the west face of North Palisade and made the first ascent of the southwest buttress, the massive buttress rising just north of the U-notch. Our route ascended the pro...

Gyachungkang, South Face. Our expedition of ten French and three Nepalese military men climbed Gyachungkang’s previously unclimbed south face. The peak itself had been climbed only once, by Japanese in 1964. We approached from Jiri in two weeks an...

Trekking Peaks of Nepal, Ascents and Attempts. In an effort to climb all 18 trekking peaks in Nepal as catalogued by Bill O’Connor’s book, The Trekking Peaks of Nepal, the British Army Nepal Expedition sent different teams to all the respective mo...

Dhaulagiri Attempts. Two Japanese expeditions unsuccessfully attempted to climb Dhaulagiri by its northeast ridge. A three-man group led by Akihiro Yoshitani set up Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4720, 5700 and 6560 meters on September 2, 11 and ...

Mount Hunter, North Buttress. Two articles on remarkably difficult new routes up the north buttress of Mount Hunter appear earlier in this Journal. One was climbed by Marc Twight and Scott Backes and named “Deprivation.” The other, “Wall of Shadow...

Noshaq from the South, Ghul Lasht Zom East, Aspe Safed. We three Austrians, Wolfgang Stefan, Dieter Eger and I, traveled from Peshawar to Shagrom from June 2 to 6, as far as Kuragh by landrover and jeep via the Lowari Pass and Chitral and over the...

Annapurna IV. The post-monsoon Japanese expedition in 1953, under the leadership of T. Imanishi, came close to reaching the top of its 24,688-foot objective. The route up the south face they felt impracticable for porters; so on October 10th they ...

Chinchey and Jatunmontepuncu. Our expedition from China Lake, California Mountain Rescue Group climbed from the Quebrada Quil- cayhuanca. From our Base Camp at 14,665 feet, stock trails led up and north into the side canyon, Quebrada Yanapaccha, w...

Overview. Experienced Antarctic climber Patrick Degerman made his second visit to the area, climbing several minor peaks in the Wohlthat Massif with a fellow Finnish partner. The most well-known figure of Queen Maud Land climbing, Ivar Tollefsen, ...

Pumori, Northwest Ridge Attempt and Near Tragedy. Gil McCormick, Jim Nowak and I made the first ever attempt on the northwest ridge of Pumori, which forms the border between Nepal and Tibet and rises sharply from the Changri Shar Glacier. From Jir...

FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVEREDColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallJoe Miller (38) fell to his death on the morning of June 22 while climbing the Yellow Spur route (5.9) on the Redgarden Wall. A later investigation revealed that a micr...

Shisha Pangma and Unique Training Method. On September 5, I reached the summit of Shisha Pangma with Italians Fausto De Stefani and Sergio Martini by the normal route. We had Base Camp, Camps I, II and III at 5550, 6400, 6900 and 7300 meters. We h...

Mountain Records of the Sierra Nevada, compiled by Richard M. Leonard and the Committee of Mountain Records, Sierra Club. 1937, with supplement to 1939.

Kwangde Nup, north buttress direct ascent, Cheap Wine. During the post monsoon Czech climbers, Jan Doudlebsky and Radek Lienerth, completed a new direct finish to the 1989 American route on the North Buttress of Kwangde Nup (6035m). The pair began...

RAPPEL FAILURE—ERROR IN ANCHORING, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn September 10, David and Edward, (both 18), from England, and temporary employees of the Banff Springs Hotel, were rock climbing on the lower ridge of Mt. Rundl...

Tashi Kang and Peak 6,195m, ascents. While acclimatizing for their attempt on the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri, a group of primarily German climbers successfully reaced the top of two low 6,000m peaks in the Hidden Valley, north-northeast of Dhau...

Broad Peak Attempt and Ghondokhoro La. An Himalayan Kingdom expedition was led by Welshman Martin Barnicott with climbing leader Russell Brice from New Zealand. The clients were Italian Fulvio Fresia, Canadian Dr. Stuart Hutchinson, Finn Mikko Val...

Harvard. If one is to judge by performance, past, present and (probable) future, the Harvard Mountaineering Club still occupies a stellar position in the collegiate mountaineering scene. The club has successfully adjusted itself to post-war condit...

L’Oeuvre scientifique du Club Alpin Français (1874-1922). 8 vo. ; pp. 518, with illustrations, maps and index. Paris, 1936.In an impressive volume the scientific committee of the French Alpine Club presents the club’s work over a period of fifty y...

Mount Kenya. John Reader. Elm Tree Books, London, 1989. 160 pages, color photographs. £ 25.00.In this age when ‘climbing’ conjures up visions of Lycra-clad youth grunting and swearing as they push the limits of human endurance another notch, it is...