Brammah II. Eleven Indian Para Commando soldiers climbed Brammah II (6425 meters, 21,080 feet), which had been previously unsuccessfully at tempted by two foreign and many Indian expeditions. Three batches climbed the peak, the first led by leader...
Kang Yissay, possible new route. It is reported that on July 17 Spanish climber Santiago Sagaste soloed what is believed to be a new route on the northeast face of this very popular 6,400m mountain above the Nimaling Plains in Zanskar. We have no ...
Cerro Morado, Vasquez Route. Pablo Besser and Waldo Farias climbed the South Face of Cerro Morado (5050 meters). The route was ice and 18 pitches long. We started February 15 in the Morales Valley, sleeping at the base. After a rest day we started...
Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt. The final part of our Devoid Triple North Walls project was supposed to be a return to Talung in the Kangchenjunga massif. [Editor’s note: Their 2008 new routes on Kapura, in Pakistan, and on Uparisina, in ...
“Sail Pinnacle”, South Face, Wind River Range. This alluring pinnacle lies 1.25 miles due west of the summit of Squaretop Mountain and .4 miles northeast of P 11,530. Our route on the south face has steps and ledge-traverses angling up and west t...
The Western British Mountains, Traverse. The winter in the Brooks Range lasted right up tothe last day in May. On the first day of June, the final winter storm ended and the white carpet of snow gave way to the gray carpet of spring tundra. Six of...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF RAPPEL—ROPE INCORRECTLY PLACEDTHROUGH FIGURE OF EIGHTWest Virginia, New River Gorge NRA, Fern PointOn May 20, 1994, a climber fell 90 feet because he had incorrectly threaded his rappel rope through a Figure Eight descendi...
Avalanche Canyon. Several new climbs have been discovered in the general vicinity of Lake Taminah in the north fork. The larger of two steep buttresses directly north of the lake now has two routes. In August, 1978, Yvon Chouinard, Kent Lugbill, a...
Corrections, Hindu Kush. On page 201 of A.A.J., 1966, it stated that both the American and the Italian expeditions climbed P 6110 meters or Bandaka Uris. It now appears that both groups climbed P 6192 meters (20,315 feet) or Koh-e-Ka-Safed. In mor...
Everest, north face, new route. One of the season’s most important climbs was the ascent of Everest’s great north face by a new direct line from a spot near their advance base camp at 6,200m to the 8,850m summit. During a month-long ascent, the le...
Devil’s Tower. An excellent article on all climbs done to date on the Devil’s Tower appeared in the July-August 1982 Climbing, starting on page 20. Several new climbs which were done too late to include in the article appear on page 6 of the same ...
FALL ON ROCK, CARABINER FAILURE Colorado, Arthur’s RockOn April 22, 1979, John Newman and Phyllis Kawanabe were climbing an unnamed route on the south side of Arthur’s Rock, three miles west of Fort Collins, Colorado. At 2 p.m. Kawanabe establishe...
K2, Northwest Ridge Attempt. Matt Culberson, Lyle Dean, Larry Hall, Ron Johnson, Dr. Allen McPherson, Jay Shotwell and I arrived in Base Camp on June 11. We hoped to climb K2 by the unrepeated Northwest Ridge, first climbed by Pierre Beghin and Ch...
Chamlang. The Hokkaido University Mount Chamlang Expedition was composed of Dr. Seiki Nakano, leader; Takeo Okamoto, Susumu Koya-yashi, Toshi-kazu Nagamitsu, Hisashi Kukimura, Soh Anma and Yoshihiro Suzuki. We left Birathnagar on April 15, passed ...
Mount Owen, First Winter Ascent. The astonishingly short list of successful winter climbs in the Tetons was lengthened significantly on December 19 and 20, when the first winter ascents of Mount Owen were made by a group from the Wasatch Mountain ...
Mukut Parbat. Anderson Bakewell, S. J., reports that a New Zealand party led by H. E. Riddiford climbed Mukut Parbat (23,760 ft.) in July 1951.
The Chopping Block, first winter ascent. On February 14, 2004, I hiked in via Goodell Creek and The Barrier to climb the Southeast Face route. The next day, from below the east face, I climbed a steep, north-facing gully to gain the southeast ridg...
FALL ON ICE, EXHAUSTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Louise FallsOn December 31, 1981, two men were ice climbing on Louise Falls at Lake Louise. The leader was making the final move when he fell approximately 50 feet. His fall was held by his belayer ...
FALL THROUGH CORNICE, OFF ROUTE, UNROPEDAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount BalfourOn April 12, N.F., a ski patroller from Whistler and member of the ACC Whistler section, was skiing the Wapta Icefield traverse with two companions, D.S. and G.M. T...
Mount Allen, Goodsirs Group. On July 21, Gertrude Smith, Don Redman, Bernie de Vos and I made the third ascent of Mount Allen by a new route. Climbing from the Canadian Alpine Club Camp we crossed the lower Vaux Glacier to about the middle of the ...