Fred Beckey and Reed Cundiff climbed the first route on the north side of the Ericsson Crags in 1972. In July, I returned with Fred to do a direct line on the face he had climbed 15 years previously. Our route followed the most obvious cracks just...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II) and Baruntse North. After a 15-day approach up the Arun valley, we established Base Camp on September 9 at 17,725 feet at the junction of the Chago and Barun Glaciers, equidistant from our two objectives. The members of ou...
Kumbhakarna, Winter Ascent, 1984. More details are available on the Korean winter ascent of Kumbhakarna (Jannu). This was the first Korean ascent and the first winter ascent. It was done by a spur on the south face which led to the south ridge, a ...
Ama Dablam. An American team led by Annie Whitehouse had planned to attempt Tawoche first and then Ama Dablam, but when they reached Tawoche, they decided against trying it. Deep unconsolidated snow lay at its base and the couloir they had thought...
Escaping from Torres del Paine’s awful weather, German Kevin Bartke and I landed in Valle Cochamó in late February, seeking some dry, sunny granite walls. After repeating some routes in the Anfiteatro, La Zebra, and Valle de Paloma, we teamed up...
Bobisghir. Our expedition was composed of Yukitoshi Tanikawa, leader, Shinichiro Kasai, Takeshi Oshida, Dr. Shigeki Nakajima and me. After leaving Dasso on May 28, we established Base Camp at 4850 meters on the Nobande Sobande Glacier on June 5. S...
Portillo Group. Francois Boucher, Julio Corradi, Jochen Groos, Nestor Sanes, Carlos Urien and Paul Ulens of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires spent the week of January 20 to 28, 1955, climbing in the Portillo Group. They made first ascents of the Sou...
Annapurna, Bulgarian Attempt on South Face, Winter 1988-9. A Bulgarian expedition was led by Metodi Savov and composed of Ivan Vlchev, Arso Arsov, Dino Tomov, Dimitr Nachev, Kostas Kandidis and Liubomir Ilyev. After a difficult approach complicate...
Maiktoli, 1990. An Indian team led by Colonel J.C. Joshi ascended the Sundardunga valley and Dungia Dhong and set up Base Camp on the Maiktoli grazing grounds on September 16, 1990. They placed high camps on the 21st and 23rd. Anil Bisht, J.C. Bis...
K2, various ascents and records in the anniversary year. July 31,2004 marked the 50th Anniversary of the first ascent of 8,611m K2 by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli from Ardito Desio’s Italian expedition. To mark the occasion, 11 expedition...
Bandarpunch. Eight of the 10-member Assam Mountaineering Association team led by Parbati Prasad Gautam and three Sherpas climbed Bandarpunch I (20,720 feet) on September 21. The ascent was a new route from the northeast, made from Camp III at 19,0...
Mont Blanc Sesqnicentennial. This August will mark the 150th anniversary of the most important event in the history of mountaineering, for it was on the 8th and 9th of August, in 1786, that Dr. Michel Gabriel Paccard and Jacques Balmat, of Chamoni...
Ascents on Great Cross Pillar, The Turret, and an Attempt On Polar Sun Spire. Mark Synnott, Warren Hollinger and Jerry Gore spent from May 13 until the end of June in Sam Ford Fjord, accomplishing a first ascent of The Great Cross Pillar (5500 fee...
Snow Dome, Mehrbani. In August Rob Ferguson, Dave Wilkinson and I climbed Snow Dome (16,500 feet) and Mehrbani (17,517 feet) from the Naltar valley and P 5961 (19,557 feet) from the Daintar valley. Having crossed from the Kerengi to the Sat Marao ...
Mount Blackburn. On August 12, after four days of climbing from Base Camp at 6900 feet, John McDonald, Dick Sletten and I reached the summit of Mount Blackburn (16,523 feet). Our route followed through icefalls on the third arm of the Kuskalana Gl...
P 7200 and Other Peaks, Little Switzerland. Dan Hansen, Nick Giustina, Chris Haunold, Jane Ramp, Kent Benesch, Jim Anglin and I spent ten days in Little Switzerland between July 4 and 14, much of it stormbound. On July 13 the ever present rain cea...
Punta Quebrada, Yeso Valley. One of the few unclimbed peaks of the Yeso valley, above Santiago, a short, difficult rock climb, was ascended on November 1 by Víctor Geell and Osvaldo Latorre during a mountaineering school course of the Federación d...
Ski Descents in the Cordillera Blanca. Patrick Vallençant made a number of ski descents, some of which have been noted elsewhere in this Journal. He skied down the normal route on Huascarán Norte on June 2. On June 23 with Dominique André, Jean-Ma...
Peaks in El Brujo Group. Two peaks belonging to E1 Brujo group, located at the head of the Maitenes valley, north of Tinguiririca river (Colchagua province) were ascended in early January by Chilean climbers. Besides other repeat ascents, F. Arias...
Cerro Adela, Patagonia. After exploring for a route on Cerro Torre, Jorge Aikes, Omar Pellegrini and Nestor Monaco placed a camp at the foot of the north-northeast ridge of Cerro Adela (9711 feet). After seven days of constant snowstorms, they set...