East Kanthari, First Ascent. East Kanthari (6167m) lies on the Tibet-Qinghai (Changtang) Plateau in an area known as the Kokosiri that covers the borders between Tibet, Qinghai and Shinjyan. The Kokosiri is one of the most remote places in central...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, Kahiltna GlacierOn May 16, French mountaineer Pascal Frison (51) fell to his death while climbing Mount McKinley. He and his partner were approaching a fea...
Baintha Brakk, attempts and second ascent. Four expeditions attempted 7285m Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) last summer and although talented groups from America, Austria, and Slovenia all failed, a three-man Swiss-German team achieved the highly coveted...
Ascent: The Mountaineering Experience in Word and Image. Steve Roper and Allen Steck, editors. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1984. 174 pages, black and white and color photographs, drawings. $25.00.These days a wider diversity of people than e...
Sierra National Forest, Sunset Point. This fall, Ron Negrette and I explored this area near Huntington Lake and climbed a two-pitch route, Get To The Point (I, 5.8) right of the main face of the crag. It starts with thin liebacking up a right-faci...
Shri Kailas. A team from Bombay set up Base Camp at 4575 meters in the Thelu Nala on September 18. They established five more camps. On October 6, leader Dr. Hu Silin, Prakash Samant, Cyrus Shroff, Chris De Souza, Pradeep Iyer and Vijay Parekh cli...
Hypothermia, Frostbite and Other Cold Injuries: Prevention, Recognition and Prehospital Treatment. James A. Wilkerson, Cameron C. Bangs, John S. Hayward. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1986. 105 pages, illustrations, color photographs, charts, diagram...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The Chicago Mountaineering Club continued to expand its program of local outings in 1956 by holding several winter weekend trips to the regular climbing areas of Devils Lake, Wisconsin, and Mississippi Palisades States...
SLIP ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWyoming, Middle TetonOn September 4, 1991, at 1600, Fred Perl, Curt Pohr and Bonnie Schwartz (25) were descending the Southwest Couloir route of the Middle Teton. Schwartz had been descending across the top of the...
Otto Titus Trott (1911-1999) Anderson Bakewell (1912-1999)Paul V. Livingston (1914-1999)Harold W. Stevenson (1921-1999)Ralph Johnson (1923-1999)Akio Horiuchi (1933-1999)Terry Alpine Murphy (1944-1999)Keith Boskoff( 1950-1999)Myron William Smith (1...
FALLS ON ROCK (17), PROTECTION PULLED OUT (7), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (4), BELAY ERRORS (4), RAPPEL ERRORNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksTwenty reports were submitted for 2010 (including the narrative above).There were three 40-foot falls, on...
Our small French team—Eric Lantz, Didier Rognon, Arnaud Simard, and I, all from the BUC Alpin mountain club—spent July 22 to August 11 in the Dasbar Valley, south of Koyo Zom (6,871m). We explored the area and made three ascents.Eric and Didier re...
HOWARD PALMER1883-1944The unexpected death of Howard Palmer on October 24th, at the close of his 61st year, deprives the Club of a member whose long official connection had proved him one of its staunchest friends. For the 1944 issue of the Journa...
Mount McGinnis, Southeast Ridge. In October, 1995, on our way in to attempt the southeast ridge of McGinnis Peak, Rick Studley plucked me out of the Delta River three times. As we walked up toward the peak memories of my last climb on McGinnis flo...
Autumn fatalities. Ayumi Nozawai was one of seven climbers who died this autumn. He was part of a three-man Japanese expedition attempting the west ridge of 7,140m Nemjung. On October 2 the party had reached ca 6,000m, not quite at the start of th...
Lenak and Giabul Valleys, exploration. In 2009 our group explored the Reru Valley, taking photographs of virgin peaks and producing a sketch map (AAJ 2010). We presumed there were other hidden valleys in this region, where no mountaineers had expl...
The Northeast Rib of Kwangde CentralAlan KearneyI THOUGHT THAT LIVING IN Kathmandu would offer greater climbing opportunities than my home in Bellingham, Washington. When Bellinghamsters aren’t watching the slug races, they manage to pull off an o...
Cerro Torre, Lost Times, Attempt. It was reported that a Spanish team that included Pepe Chevarri ascended the 1994 Marsigny-Parkin line, Lost Times, that ascends an ice couloir from the Torre Glacier to the Col of Hope, but were unable to continu...
Mountain Paintings. Visitors to Washington may be interested in the following. At the National Museum, grouped inside the entrance, are two large paintings of the “Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone,” one by Thomas Moran (1837-1926), the other by Luc...
Lighthouse Tower, Free Ascent. On October 24, Bill Wright, George Bell, John Prater and Ken Leiden made the first recorded free ascent of the Northeast Face on Lighthouse Tower (III 5.9S). The crux was a crumbly offwidth crack; oversize friends ar...