Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, P 22,270

P 22,270. This peak rises above the Nanda Devi Sanctuary where the south ridge of Devistan joins the ridge between Maiktoli and Mrigthuni. A five-man team from Bombay left Lata in late May for the eight days’ trek to Base Camp with 22 porters and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, Solo Winter Ascent of West Face, 1992

Ama Dablam, Solo Winter Ascent of West Face, 1992. Yasushi Yamanoi’s solo winter ascent of a new route on the west face of Ama Dablam on December 6 and 7, 1992 was mentioned in AAJ, 1993. There are more details and photographs of this remarkable c...


Club Activities AAJ
Arizona Mountaineering Club

Arizona Mountaineering Club. Membership and enthusiasm continue to grow as the Arizona Mountaineering Club enters its 35th year. The membership, now over 450, spans a wide range of interests and experience levels. In 1998, members trekked, hiked a...


Notes AAJ
Alaska, Summary

Summary. The problem of the oscillations of the Alaskan glaciers is still far from being adequately solved. More observations at periodic intervals are essential. However, since detailed records are available in the case of some glaciers for over ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Alden Frick Megrew, 1910-1987

ALDEN FRICK MEGREW 1910–1987Alden Frick Megrew, retired chairman of the Fine Arts Department of the University of Colorado, died at his home in Boulder on September 17, 1987. A life-long mountaineer and 57-year member of the American Alpine Club, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Mount Turnweather, Insumisioa

Mount Turnweather, Insumisioa. Spanish climbers Miguel Berazaluze, Manu Blaquez, Cristobel Diaz and Raul Melero forged a new route on Mount Turnweather in Auyuttiuq National Park. Insumisioa (VI 6b+ A4) covers 1200 meters in 31 pitches.Brad Jarret...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Rope Pulls Through Belay Device, No Helmet, North Carolina, Looking Glass Rock

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, ROPE PULLS THROUGH BELAY DEVICE, NO HELMETNorth Carolina, Looking Glass RockOn March 23 around 1:50 p.m., a male climber (26) fell approximately 45 feet on the South Face of Looking Glass Rock. He had led Good Inten...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Khan Tengri and Pik Pobedy

Khan Tengri and Pik Pobedy. The 3000-meter-high snow-and-ice north face of Khan Tengri is the highest and most severe wall in the Tien Shan. There are seven routes on the face, but all had been climbed by Soviets in teams of at least six using muc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir

Tirich Mir. Jerzy Wala led a Polish party to Tirich Mir. Unfortunately they had to abandon the ascent when Jankowski died of a heart attack at over 23,000 feet.Marek Brniak, Klub Wysokogórski, Poland


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. A one-week outing in the Lake City area of Colorado and a two-week outing in the Tetons each attracted a large attendance of 70 persons. The October 1959 issue of Trail and Timberline reports trips to Wildhorse Peak and Ame...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Blackburn, 1977

Mount Blackburn, 1977. Two Japanese expeditions in 1977 climbed Mount Blackburn (16,390 feet) from 7200 feet on the Nebesna Glacier via the northwest ridge. A four-man party led by Katsuaki Kawamura got to the summit on April 24, 1977. On June 12,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Vasuki Parbat (6,792m), West Face

Gangotri, Vasuki Parbat (6,792m), west face. Attempted once before, by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden, the 1,600m west face of the rarely-visited Vasuki Parbat gives sustained mixed difficulties of Scottish VI, 7 (or approximately M6). British alpin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Silverthrone

Silverthrone. Rod Newcomb, Dean Moore, Jake Elkins and I skied up to the summit ridge of Silverthrone via the south icefall and returned on skis, quite a navigation problem through the icefall.Steven W. Hackett


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Peaks in Aysén District, Northern Patagonian Continental Icecap

Peaks in Aysén District, Northern Patagonian Continental Icecap. A group from our institution led by Osvaldo Latorre and composed of G. Oyarzún, A. Marcel, and R. Aguilera explored the northern extreme of the Continental Icecap in the Aysén distri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
K2 Attempt from the North Asia, Chinese Karakoram

Spaniard Basques Felix Iñurrategi and Alberto Inurrategi, Joseba Urkia, Fernando Uribesalgo, Jon Ander Loido and Xabier Zuniga attempted to climb K2 from the north but they were unable to get higher than 8000 meters. After a difficult approach w...

| Published 2013


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Juneau Icefield

Juneau Icefield. This summer Barry Prather, Jim Anderson, Ome Daiber, Dorrell Looff and I were American Alpine Club members who served on the staff of the Glaciological and Arctic Sciences Institute and its affiliated Juneau Icefield Research Prog...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga, Body of Female Discovered

Kangchenjunga, Body of Female Discovered. Simone Moro led an unsussessful Italian/Polish expedition that attempted the Normal Route on the southwest face. They abandoned their attempt at 8000 meters on April 30. While on the mountain they reported...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Selkirks

Selkirks. A Geological Survey of Canada field party under the leadership of John O. Wheeler was again active in the Selkirks during the summer of 1962. During late June and early July they undertook a month-long backpacking trip from Mount Revelst...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Three Gossips, Arches National Monument

Three Gossips, Arches National Monument. In the Park Avenue section of the monument are several impressive formations, few of which have been climbed. Many have blank, rotten sections at their bases. We chose the northern summit of the Three Gossi...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Alaska Section

Alaska Section. The Alaska Section purchased the Snowbird Hut, a dome-shaped structure built on stilts on the moraine above the Snowbird Glacier in the Talkeetna Mountains. It is important as one of two shelters on the “Bomber” traverse, linking s...