FALL ON ROCK, LOWERING ERROR-LOST CONTROL OF BELAY AND NO KNOT IN END OF ROPE, NO HARD HATColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, RinconOn January 19, James Harr (25) fell to his death when his partner Dave Booton lost control of the climbing rope h...
Ganesh II Attempt. Nine Swiss climbers led by Roland Garin attempted to climb Ganesh II. They wanted to climb the west ridge from the col between Ganesh II and Pabil (Ganesh IV). They placed two camps above Base Camp and planned a Camp III at 6700...
Big Four, North Face. January 3, 1974, Rich Carlstad and Cal Folsom climbed the gully to the east of the standard north rib route. Descent was made by Route Two to the saddle between Hall Peak and Big Four. 13 hours round trip.
Mount Chamberlain, Mount Whitney Area; Incredible Hulk, Little Slide Canyon; Outguard Spire, Little Slide Canyon. In September, Julie Brugger and I climbed a new route to the left of the Fiddler-Harrington route on the north face of Mount Chamberl...
Colorado, North Maroon. On 15 August Edward H. Hilliard (47), and Ann Noyes Fowler (39), Rodney Aller (53), and Rodney Aller, Jr. (21) started at 7:00 a.m. from the bench at timber line below the dam on the northeast side of the North Maroon.There...
The complete reports of the climbing accomplished by the Andes Expedition of the D. u. O. A. V. has just appeared in its Zeitschrift for 1929. The purely mountaineering aspects of the trip were often subordinated to the necessity of assisting in t...
The Mountaineer’s Companion, edited by Michael Ward. London: Eyre & Spottiswoode, Ltd., 1966. 598 pages, 24 black and white photographs, 1 color photograph, 20 drawings, 3 maps. Price 50s.This excellent British anthology of writings on mountai...
Shivling, Northeast Face. Paolo Bernascone, Fabrizio Manoni and I as leader got to Base Camp on June 3. From June 4 to 12 we reconnoitered the normal route and our objective, the unclimbed northeast face. After three rest days, we set out at eight...
Koh-i-Safed, Warmano Valley. The Tokyo Gakugei University expedition, led by Izomu Ikeba and Akio Yamada, had 11 members. Leaving Kabul on July 21, they crossed the Anjuman on the 30th and reached Base Camp at 12,500 feet in the Warmano valley on ...
McKinley North Summit, Telemark Ski Descent of Wickersham Wall. Starting on May 5, Tyson Bradley and John Montecucco made a ski descent of the rarely climbed Wickersham Wall. They dropped down from Kahiltna Pass to the Peters Glacier. They climbed...
Everest Map, Second Edition. A second edition of the National Geographic map of Mount Everest, 1:50,000, will appear in June. It is being published by the Boston Museum of Science and the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research in Zürich. This editio...
Ak Su, north face, new route in winter. Before climbing Ak-Su (5,355m), we already had expedition experience on big walls in winter, which proved very useful. We decided to climb a new route because Balezin had seen the possibility of an interesti...
Annapurna II. The members of the Sangaku Doshikai expedition were Yukio Takafu, Nobuyuki Ogawa, Katsuyuki Kondo, Nase Sakashita, Dr. Tashitaka Sakano and I as leader. We repeated the route done from the north in 1971 by Shinshu University. We asce...
Hypoxia: The Tolerable Limits. John R. Sutton, Charles S. Houston and Geoffrey Coates, editors. Benchmark Press, Indianapolis, 1988. 380 pages, charts, tables. $48.00.This record of the Fifth International Symposium on Hypoxia consists of thirty c...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDIllinois, Mississippi Palisades State ParkOn October 3,1993, a man (mid-20s) fell 25 feet while freesoloing a route. The extent of his injuries is not known. (Source: From an article in the Quad City Times, August 30,...
Mountaineering Expeditions in the Soviet Union During 1933Interest in mountaineering and mountain exploration in the Soviet Union has been increasing from year to year. It is looked upon not only as a valuable form of recreation but also as an act...
Shisha Pangma Central (West) Summit. An international group followed the normal route to the central summit, but they made no attempt to reach the higher main summit. On May 26, the leader, New Zealander Russell Brice, Australian Mark Lemaire, Nor...
In West Mustang, on the border with Tibet, lies Araniko Chuli (6,034m). The name is not Tibetan, so who christened this peak and why? This is a bizarre story of alpinism in which mysterious characters cross paths over the centuries. It begins with...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, near summit of Mount Teewinot— On 27 July, James B. Rast (20) and Richard P. Holleman (20) had just completed an ascent of Mount Teewinot and were starting to descend when Holleman tried to use a rock projection...
FALL—AFTER CLIMB COMPLETED—California, Tahquitz. Stan Klein, a climber from Loma Prieta Chap. RCS who has moved to LA, was making his second climb of the day with Jim McPherson. Stan led the last pitch of Graham Crackers. He completed the move at ...