Sacred Mountains of the World. Edwin Bembaum. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1990. 291 pages, 1 map, 121 color illustrations, 8 black-and-white illustrations. $50.00.George Mallory’s simple answer, “Because it is there,” is both the most famous...

FALL/SLIP ON ROCK AND PLACED NO PROTECTION—Wyoming, The Tetons, Symmetry Spire. Charles Loucks (44) William Thomas, SallyWestmacott and Mike Westmacott were climbing the Jensen Ridge on Symmetry Spire on August 27. This 1200-foot ridge consists of...

FALL ON ROCK—BLOCK OF ROCK CAME OFF, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, ROPE SHEATH CUT, NO HARD HATMaryland, Delaware Water Cap, Mount TammanyOn March 12, before noon, Ralph Chang (36), Bruce Pollock, and Randall Fairman began lead climbing on Mount Tammany....

The Eastern Pillar of Torre EggerElio Orlandi, Club Alpino ItalianoHAVING REACHED Fitz Roy National Park on October 15, Maurizio Giarolli and I immediately headed for the triad of the Cerro Torre group: Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Torre Standhard...

Mount Chown and P 9600. The peaks northwest of Mount Robson more than a day distant from the Berg Lake Trail are seldom visited these days, but a passable trail continues north along the Smoky River, portions of which are well built and maintained...

Montana, Delmo Lake, Granite Batholith—On May 17, Gary D. Alexander (21), Force F. Bany, Jr. (19), John Sikkar (25), and Gary Harper (18), were planning to do some practice climbs. Alexander and Bany were attempting to climb a face about 200 feet ...

FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 30, at 10:30 a.m., Laurel Munson came into the valley ranger station to report that a climber had fallen from Sentinel Rock. Laurel said that she heard falling rocks and yelling, saw a man f...

Cholatse, southwest ridge, winter attempt. Ross Lynn and I spent three days on Cholatse (6,440m) from January 30 to February 1, 2006. On the first day we climbed from base camp to the ca. 5,550m col at the foot of the southwest ridge, at one point...

Alberta, Mt. Victoria Glacier. On July 11, John Linn (about 40), Stanley Doane, and Ernest Feuz were returning from a climb of the glacier by their ascent route. Linn, as middle man, suddenly fell into a hidden crevasse but was arrested by Feuz an...

FALL ON SNOW, AVALANCHE Yukon Territory, Mt. Logan, East RidgeThe fall occurred shortly after noon on June 14, 1980, as an eight-man party left camp one (10,500 feet) on descent. A snow step underlaid by ice failed under T. Auger causing him to fa...

Rakekniven, First Ascent. It was reported that Conrad Anker and Alex Lowe climbed an aspect called the Snow Petrol Wall on Rakekniven, an overhanging, Cerro Torre-like granite needle in the Filchner Mountains of Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. Other ...

West Tripyramid, Northwest Ridge. On August 22, Scott Gill, Randy Waitman and I climbed a new route, the northwest ridge of West Tripyramid (3572 meters, 11,720 feet). We established our high camp at 6400 feet on the Traleika Glacier after a five-...

Wall of Clouds, Aularutiksanga, New Route, Previously Unreported. Phil White, Jr., and I left Clyde River on or about May 2 and returned on roughly June 20, 1999. We traveled with our guides Ilko, his son John, and Lamaki for a few days, checking ...

Yanaloma and Don Luis, Quimsa Cruz. In the Quimsa Cruz I climbed two peaks, Yanaloma (5280 meters, 17,323 feet), a first ascent and Don Luis (5360 meters, 17,587 feet), probably a second ascent as there was a cairn on top and I was told that minin...

Mt. McGinnis, east face, Cutthroat Couloir. In early March Jed Brown and I skied in to attempt the unclimbed direct east face of McGinnis. The left-hand serac, and constant spew showering down the lower gully of the face, had us choose to repeat C...

Cerro Torre, Southern Patagonian Icecap. The Italians, Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri, failed some 1500 feet below the summit of the Cerro Torre (10,252 feet). They attempted a route up the west face from the western side. High camp was establishe...

Nevado de Pissis and Other Peaks. After exploring Llullaillaco in December 1984 (see below), Louis Glauser and I, driving a jeep, entered the Argentinian side of the Puna. We ascended Cerro Salín (6033 meters, 19,793 feet) on December 27, where, c...

LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount SnoqualmieOn May 12, 1982, Krista Karimi (45) lost control while on her second glissade. She slid 325 meters and fell over a cliff, sustaining head, arm and chest injuries. She was ...

KNOT CAME APART–FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Ferguson Canyon, Mission ImpossibleOn July 19, “Dan” (25), and “Jim” decided to beat the heat in the Salt Lake valley by climbing in cool, shady, Ferguson Canyon. Dan scrambled around to set...

Hichukhota Area, Various Ascents. A French expedition spent seven days in the Hichukhota area and made the following ascents: Wila Llojeta (5244m), August 27; Jankho Huyo (5512m), August 28; Jishka Pata (5508m), August 30; the southeast ridge of W...