Cirque of the Unclimbables. The first Japanese expedition to the Logan Mountains was composed of Koichi Ezaki, Takashi Kuranishi, Shingemitsu Murai and Harutoshi Toyota. They flew to Glacier Lake on July 10. On July 15 Ezaki and Kuranishi did a ne...
Chopicalqui, East Ridge. Our expedition was composed of René Desmaison. Dr. Alain Vagne, Guy Giraud, David Autheman, Michel Arizzi and me. We had our Base Camp in the Quebrada Honda and established two more camps to acclimatize and to move up supp...
P 5578, Khwaja Muhammad Mountains. In the central Hindu Kush P 5578 (18,301 feet) was climbed by Takakiyo Sakahara, leader, Ms. Taeko Onoeh, Takao Hayashida and Eitaro Kusakabe on August 5 and 6. The fifth member of this Japanese expedition was al...
Alaska Highway, free solo. In July I was walking up the North Walls trail with my shoes, chalk bag, and the ashes of my friend Ben DeMenic. The plan was to climb Angel’s Crest, a 15-pitch 5.10, and scatter his ashes along the way. I’m not sure wha...
Shaw Spire. This free-standing pinnacle at the head of George Creek, nestled under the east face of Mount Barnard, was ascended for the first time in March by Jerry Gregg and me. The arduous 6000-foot approach begins in the Owens Valley below Moun...
Colorado Mountain Club. The rapid growth of the club continues with an increase of 25% during the year to over 3500 members. Hundreds of one-day and weekend trips serve the recreational needs of the members, organized into some 12 local groups. In...
Cordillera Raura. Our party was Bob Gunn, New Zealander, Dick Heffeman, Australian, Rob Wilson, Alaskan, and I, English. Heffeman got typhoid fever and stayed at Mina Raura. We left Lima on May 18 and got to Raura the next day. On May 20 Gunn and ...
Koh-e-Urgas, Koh-e-Ahangaran. In the spring of 1969 the Spanish Trans-Himalaya Expedition began its second part. Its objectives were ascents in the Hindu Kush and Himalaya. Emilio Civis and Antonio Lleonart joined me as leader. In the Koh-e-Baba r...
Pumori. Our party consisted of American Scott Woolums, Australians Richard Howes, Armando Corvini, Matt Godbold, Ray Vran, Andrew Lock and me as leader. We climbed Pumori directly up the south ridge from Kala Pattar. We placed Advance Base, Camp I...
Gangotri Region, Indian Expeditions. A great many Indian expeditions were active in the Gangotri region. An expedition from Jadavpur University in Calcutta was led by Sudipta Nanda. On June 23 Goutam Datta, Ajit Naskar, Kamal Sarkhel and Shital Si...
Rakhiot Peak. Our expedition consisted of Hwang Nam-Kyu, Lee KwangJae, Kim Jong-Chul, Jung Dong-Kun and me as leader. Rakhiot Peak (7070 meters, 23,196 feet) is on the route by which Hermann Buhl made the first ascentof Nanga Parbat. We establishe...
Sierra National Forest, Black Rock Dome, Bad Day At Black Rock. Black Rock Dome is a 600-foot south-facing formation just northwest of (and easily visible from) the road to Black Rock Reservoir. In August, Jim Zellers, Pete Taylor and I approached...
Sri Kailas. An expedition from Calcutta was led by Shankar Prosad Sangha. They set up Base Camp at the confluence of the Raktvam and Thelu streams on August 6. Six camps were set up on the Raktvam Glacier. On August 20, Shyamal Sarkar, Pasang Namg...
Colorado College Mountain Club. The club was greatly saddened by the death of its president, Dale Watkins, in a rock climbing accident. A former president of the Purdue Outing Club, Dale was a fine climber who inspired the club with his own specia...
The Hiker’s Handbook, by Douglas Leechman, 8vo,, 220 pages, with 39 illustrations from drawings. New York: W. W. Norton & Co., 1944. Price $2.50.The author of this delightfully-written little book is a member of the staff of the National Museu...
“Oxygenless” Climbs and Barometric PressureJohn B. West, M.D., Ph.D.*“OXYGENLESS” CLIMBS of 8000-meter peaks are very much in vogue. Small, fast expeditions with alpine-like tactics look down their noses at the heavy, paraphernalia of supplementar...
Rongla Kangri attempt; Pk. 5,984m and Pk. 5,930m, first ascents. Our permit for Nyegi Kangsang, a peak on the Indo-Tibetan border, was withdrawn just one week before we were due to leave for Kathmandu en route to Lhasa. A number of factors contrib...
JOHN HENRY CUNTZ1866— 1928John Henry Cuntz, a member of the Club since 1914, went over the range in May, 1928, in his sixty-second year. He was born in Hoboken, New Jersey, and was a graduate of Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute and of Stevens Inst...
Sierra Nevada: (2) Cathedral Spires, Yosemite Valley. On 13 July 1947 the president of the Stanford Alpine Club and two of its members were climbing the “Rotten Chimney” on the higher spire. The rock of this chimney would ordinarily be considered ...
Idaho Alpine Club. 1990 marked the 30th anniversary of the I.A.C. and Idaho’s Centennial. Members organized a “Spuds on Denali” expedition to commemorate both events. Mike Obleness, Chris Averill, Dave Fields and Paul Henslee attempted the South ...