Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Central Hindu Kush

Central Hindu Kush. There was considerable climbing activity in the central Hindu Kush of Afghanistan in 1969. I have been able to find out the following up to this time. The French had for the first time some climbing successes there; M. Gravost ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori

Pumori. Several expeditions successfully climbed Pumori in the postmonsoon season. Spaniards led by José Javier Quinones placed Miguel Angel Serrano and Pedro Pablo González on the summit on October 7. Japanese leader Mitsuo Nomura and Takehiko Ya...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Makalu, West Ridge

Makalu, West Ridge. On February 16 the French expedition to the west ridge of Makalu headed for Nepal. It was composed of Lucien Bérardini, François Guillot, Robert Jacob, Claude Jager, Bernard Mellet, Jean-Claude Mosca, Jean-Paul Paris, Georges P...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, El Gran Trono Blanco, Cañón del Tajo, Sierra de Juárez, Baja California, 1988-90

El Gran Trono Blanco, Cañón del Tajo, Sierra de Juárez, Baja California, 1988-90. Dan Curley and I established two new routes on the south face of El Trono Blanco. La Joya (IV, 5.11+) was completed in November, 1988. Ten pitches of face climbing w...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Dislocated Knee, Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Exceeding Abilities, Inability to Continue Due to Injuries, Trying to Please Others, Inadequate Communication, Washington, North Cascades, Mt. Baker, Spider/Formidable Couloir

FALL ON ROCK-DISLOCATED KNEE, FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELFARREST, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INABILITY TO CONTINUE DUE TO INJURIES, TRYING TO PLEASE OTHERS, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATIONWashington, North Cascades, Mt. Baker, Spider/Formidable CouloirMarty, Da...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, P6166 on the Arwa-Sweta Divide

P6166 on the Arwa-Sweta Divide. A four-member ladies’ team from Calcutta, Munmun Chatterjee, Dola Sirkar, Mousumi Ghosh and Amita Bhattarcharjee, set up Base Camp at Nandanban at 14,500 feet on May 14. They set up six higher camps: Visukital, Sund...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, The "Egyptian Peaks," Commander Group

The “Egyptian Peaks”, Commander Group. In late July John Jeglum and I, together with our families, drove about 9 miles up the recently improved Jumbo Creek road to the old logging camp along the north terminal fork of Jumbo Creek at 5500 feet. Fro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Various Routes South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif

Apart from ascents reported in detail [elsewhere in this edition], two new routes were climbed on the south face of Aguja De l’S. In late December Hayden Kennedy (U.S.) and Jason Kruk (Canada) climbed the lower half of Thaw’s not Houlding Wright (...

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| Published 2011 | Author Rolando Garibotti, AAC


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall or Slip on Rock, Climbing Alone, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Bastille, Werk Supp

FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Bastille, Werk Supp Michael Hankins (47), an experienced and highly regarded climber from Oklahoma set out to solo Werk Supp (5.9) on July 22. He fell when he was 50 feet...

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| Published 2008 | Author ANAC Report


Accident Reports ANAM
Connecticut—Sleeping Giant, State Park

Connecticut—Sleeping Giant, State Park: On the afternoon of May 2, 1953, members of various mountaineering clubs were engaged in recreational climbing on Mt. Carmel after a morning occupied in discussing and demonstrating mountaineering safety tec...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Schell Route Attempt

Nanga Parbat, Schell Route Attempt. Our members included Jim Bock, Bruno Hasler, Andy Lapkass, Tom Mereness and me. We left Gilgit on August 29 and set up Base Camp at 3700 meters in the upper Rupal valley on the 30th. We kept five porters to help...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Domelands, Lamont Pinnacles, Various Ascents

Domelands, Lamont Pinnacles, Various Ascents. Lamont Pinnacles is one of those seldom visited areas positioned near the southeastern fringe of the Domelands Wilderness. Its lofty position overlooking a Joshua Tree-like environment, locally known a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, No Protection, Fatigue, Inexperience, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Athabasca

FALL ON ICE, NO PROTECTION, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AthabascaOn the morning of February 13, 1993, a party of two from Washington state set out to climb the north face of Mount Athabasca. Their intent was to complete t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Sri Kailas

Sri Kailas Attempt. An Indian team led by Jayant S. Dofe attempted Sri Kailas (6932 meters, 22,745 feet) in June. The peak lies above the Raktavam Glacier in the Gangotri area. The ten climbers followed the traditional route over the glacier to th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Lahul, CB 44, a previously Unnamed Peak in Central Lahul, Probable First Ascent

CB 44, a previously unnamed peak in Central Lahul, probable first ascent. Our organization, Kolkata Trekkers Youth (formerly Calcutta Trekkers Youth) of West Bengal, organizes expeditions in unexplored regions, or to virgin or relatively unknown p...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. The Colorado Mountain Club had an active 1973 with about 800 trips conducted which included about 650 climbs on some 300 peaks, a climbing trip to Idaho’s Sawtooth Range, a three- week hiking trip to Norway, exploration of ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C. New York Section

A.A.C., New York Section. The 1988 year was a busy and productive one for the New York Section. As has been our custom, Section members received invitations to several lecture programs followed by a social hour, along with a Spring members’ event,...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Hiker's Handbook

The Biggest Bear on Earth, by Harold McCracken. 4to, xii + 114 pages, with frontispiece in color and other full-page illustrations by Paul Bransom. New York: Frederick A. Stokes and Co., 1944. Price $2.00.The author is a member of the Explorers Cl...


Accident Reports ANAM
British Columbia, Purcell Range, Mt. Taurus

British Columbia, Purcell Range, Mt. Taurus. On July 22, Kenneth Carr (44) set out alone to climb the east shoulder of Mt. Taurus. His tracks were later followed by a search party for a short distance but then lost. It was presumed that he fell in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Cape Renard Tower, Attempt

Cape Renard Tower, Attempt. It was reported that bad weather and lack of time prevented Julian Freeman-Atwood and Crag Jones (U.K.) from making the first ascent of Cape Renard Tower (747 m) at the northeast end of the Lemaire Channel on the Antarc...