Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Kulu Pumori and Shigri Parbat

Kulu Pumori and Shigri Parbat. A 44-man expedition from the Indian Border Security Force climbed both of these peaks. Three transit camps were placed on the Bara Shigri Glacier and Advance Base at Concordia at 4900 meters. There they split into tw...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Symmetry Crag No. 4, South Face

Symmetry Crag No. 4, South Face. William Buckingham and Fred Wright climbed this route on July 12, making the approach from the Symmetry-Ice Point saddle. The down-sloping handholds and knife-blade piton cracks made the climb more difficult than m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Ultar (Bojohagur Duanasir II) Attempt and Tragedy

Ultar (Bojohagur Duanasir II) Attempt and Tragedy. Our nine-member expedition was led by my husband Tsuneo Hasegawa, whose expedition last year attempted unclimbed Ultar (Bojohagur Duanasir II; 7388 meters, 24,240 feet) but had to give up 300 mete...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Disappointment Peak, South Central Buttress, Variation

Disappointment Peak, South Central Buttress, Variation. A new climb (II, F5) on this broad buttress was made on August 9 by Sherman Lehman, William Hooker, and W. E. Kirkpatrick. This party started below the bottom of the Merriam Couloir, taking t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kashmir and Jammu, Brammah II

Brammah II. Eleven Indian Para Commando soldiers climbed Brammah II (6425 meters, 21,080 feet), which had been previously unsuccessfully at tempted by two foreign and many Indian expeditions. Three batches climbed the peak, the first led by leader...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, East Karakoram, Kang Yissay, Possible New Route

Kang Yissay, possible new route. It is reported that on July 17 Spanish climber Santiago Sagaste soloed what is believed to be a new route on the northeast face of this very popular 6,400m mountain above the Nimaling Plains in Zanskar. We have no ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Cerro Morado, Vasquez Route

Cerro Morado, Vasquez Route. Pablo Besser and Waldo Farias climbed the South Face of Cerro Morado (5050 meters). The route was ice and 18 pitches long. We started February 15 in the Morales Valley, sleeping at the base. After a rest day we started...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Kyashar (6,770m), South Pillar, Attempt

Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt. The final part of our Devoid Triple North Walls project was supposed to be a return to Talung in the Kangchenjunga massif. [Editor’s note: Their 2008 new routes on Kapura, in Pakistan, and on Uparisina, in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, "Sail Pinnacle," South Face, Wind River Range

“Sail Pinnacle”, South Face, Wind River Range. This alluring pinnacle lies 1.25 miles due west of the summit of Squaretop Mountain and .4 miles northeast of P 11,530. Our route on the south face has steps and ledge-traverses angling up and west t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, The Western British Mountains, Traverse

The Western British Mountains, Traverse. The winter in the Brooks Range lasted right up tothe last day in May. On the first day of June, the final winter storm ended and the white carpet of snow gave way to the gray carpet of spring tundra. Six of...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure to Rappel—Rope Incorrectly Placed Through Figure Eight, West Virginia, New River Gorge NRA, Fern Point

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF RAPPEL—ROPE INCORRECTLY PLACEDTHROUGH FIGURE OF EIGHTWest Virginia, New River Gorge NRA, Fern PointOn May 20, 1994, a climber fell 90 feet because he had incorrectly threaded his rappel rope through a Figure Eight descendi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Avalanche Canyon

Avalanche Canyon. Several new climbs have been discovered in the general vicinity of Lake Taminah in the north fork. The larger of two steep buttresses directly north of the lake now has two routes. In August, 1978, Yvon Chouinard, Kent Lugbill, a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Corrections, Hindu Kush

Corrections, Hindu Kush. On page 201 of A.A.J., 1966, it stated that both the American and the Italian expeditions climbed P 6110 meters or Bandaka Uris. It now appears that both groups climbed P 6192 meters (20,315 feet) or Koh-e-Ka-Safed. In mor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Hima, Everest, North Face, New Route

Everest, north face, new route. One of the season’s most important climbs was the ascent of Everest’s great north face by a new direct line from a spot near their advance base camp at 6,200m to the 8,850m summit. During a month-long ascent, the le...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Devil's Tower

Devil’s Tower. An excellent article on all climbs done to date on the Devil’s Tower appeared in the July-August 1982 Climbing, starting on page 20. Several new climbs which were done too late to include in the article appear on page 6 of the same ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Carabiner Failure, Colorado, Arthur's Rock

FALL ON ROCK, CARABINER FAILURE Colorado, Arthur’s RockOn April 22, 1979, John Newman and Phyllis Kawanabe were climbing an unnamed route on the south side of Arthur’s Rock, three miles west of Fort Collins, Colorado. At 2 p.m. Kawanabe establishe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2, Northwest Ridge Attempt

K2, Northwest Ridge Attempt. Matt Culberson, Lyle Dean, Larry Hall, Ron Johnson, Dr. Allen McPherson, Jay Shotwell and I arrived in Base Camp on June 11. We hoped to climb K2 by the unrepeated Northwest Ridge, first climbed by Pierre Beghin and Ch...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Chamlang

Chamlang. The Hokkaido University Mount Chamlang Expedition was composed of Dr. Seiki Nakano, leader; Takeo Okamoto, Susumu Koya-yashi, Toshi-kazu Nagamitsu, Hisashi Kukimura, Soh Anma and Yoshihiro Suzuki. We left Birathnagar on April 15, passed ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Mount Owen, First Winter Ascent

Mount Owen, First Winter Ascent. The astonishingly short list of successful winter climbs in the Tetons was lengthened significantly on December 19 and 20, when the first winter ascents of Mount Owen were made by a group from the Wasatch Mountain ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China and India Border, Mukut Parbat

Mukut Parbat. Anderson Bakewell, S. J., reports that a New Zealand party led by H. E. Riddiford climbed Mukut Parbat (23,760 ft.) in July 1951.