Mt. Edwards, North Face, Chaos Theory. On previous trips in previous years, I often found myself drooling hopelessly as I looked up at a very elegant unclimbed line of mixed rock and ice on the north face of Mt. Edwards. This year, because of an e...
Fisher Towers, Various ascents. The Minotaur saw a first ascent (IV 5.9+ C2) by Lisa Raleigh and Duane Raleigh in five-and-a-half hours with no pitons and only two bolts. The route begins just right of Ancient Art and climbs the formation in seven...
DeborahBrian Okonek, Mountaineering Club of AlaskaWHEN Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, and Henry Meybohm stepped onto the summit of Deborah twenty-one years ago for a first ascent, they came to the “unanimous conclusion that Deborah was the most sen...
Everest, Kangshung Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Canadian Barry Blanchard, Americans Steve Swenson, Sandy Pitman (f), Alex Lowe and me as leader, and Sherpa climbers Wongchu, Kaji, Pinzo and Nawang. Lowe, Kaji, Pinzo and I had all c...
ELIZABETH LARNED MacCARTHY1877 - 1944On February 10, 1944, when we were in the woods with her devoted dogs enjoying the morning sunshine and the scent of the forest at Camden, S. C., Elizabeth Larned MacCarthy suddenly passed through the veil that...
Lover's Leap Access Report. Significant changes have taken place at the Lover’s Leap climbing area. Local property owners, the U.S. Forest Service, and climbers working together have presently resolved their conflicts and pro vided solutions to th...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, OVERCONFIDENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanDave and I (Rob) had been planning to climb the Nose of El Cap (34 pitches, Grade VI, 5.11, A2) for the past year. Together we had 24 ...
Mount Redoubt, Mount Spickard, Mad Eagle Peak, North Cascades. On the north side of Mount Redoubt opposite the northeast-face route is a prominent Y-shaped couloir. On July 2 Bruce Anderson and I ascended the Depot Glacier, then crossed the bergsc...
Lhotse, 1955NORMAN G. DYHRENFURTHWHEN leaving Mount Everest in December of 1952 I hardly dared hope that some day I would be able to return to Solo Khumbu. My original plan was to visit that area in the Fall of 1954 for some "minor” ascents, but p...
Mount Fernow, North Face Variation. At the end of September Dave Beck- stead, Mark Hutson, and I made a direct finish to the old north-face route, climbing to the top of the ice finger, then taking a snow and ice gully, followed by a short rock wa...
FALLING ICE, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, Cassin RidgeAt 2105 on June 16, Jason Kraus (30), a member of the Cold and Stinky Expedition, requested evacuation from the base of the Cassin Ridge on Denali. Kraus had sustained an injury to his ...
Waddington Range, Various Activity. This was an interesting year, with a long, dry, hot introduction to the season putting the glaciers into very difficult conditions for travel, but shaping up the mountains (especially the rock lines) better than...
The Northwest Ridge of K2James WickwireON the Pakistani-Chinese border, K2 rises as a rocky, isolated pyramid to 28,741 feet*, a scant two rope- lengths below the height of Everest. Although K2 is not as frequented by mountaineers as its higher ne...
Nenana Spire, Midget Porn. In early March, Tim Cosik had a Swedish lady he had just met (who would soon become his pregnant wife) drop us at an obscure Fairbanks hangar. We knew we were in for an adventure when a kid met us at the door with a roll...
West Witches’ Tit, south face, Jack Hicks Memorial Route; and Cat’s Ears Spire, Least Snowed-up Route. From May 16 to June 5 Guy Edwards and I visited the Devil’s Thumb region of the Stikine Icecap in southeast Alaska and northwest British Columbi...
Alaska Section. It was a busy year in the most northern of AAC sections. We officially purchased and signed the lease agreement with the State for the Snowbird Hut on the lateral moraine of the Snowbird Glacier in the Talkeetna Mountains—the first...
After reading trip reports and getting beta from Freddie Wilkinson, who along with various partners has established multiple climbs in the area, from April 8-20 Joey McBrayer and I explored the Northeast Fork of the Yentna Glacier. In mostly disma...
Various free ascents. In July and August Nick Martino, Cedar Wright, and I freed two unrepeated aid lines on the Minaret of South Howser. On both the Italian Pillar (V 11+) and the Southwest Pillar (V 12- R/X) we created new pitches that wander fr...
Geographical Districts1951-811982Number of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta1304627124556British Colombia1406026618646Yukon Territory1819392312Ontario13423309Quebec10225103East Arctic...
OUT OF BOUNDS–LOST, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Rock Spring CanyonOn February 6 at 1330, Cameron Morgan (25), Jonathan Gagne (25), and Katherine Gagne (24) left the Teton Village Ski Area boundaries with th...