Masherbrum attempt. Our expedition was conceived as a fairly light-weight, semi-alpine-style attempt to climb the north face and west ridge of Masherbrum (7821 meters, 25,660 feet) with a small group of friends. We were Chas Macquarie, Eric Reynol...
Illimani Group, Traverse. British La Paz residents Yossi Brain and Peter Grosset teamed up with visiting Italians Alessandro Bianchi (Club Alpino Italiano-ULE Genova) and Marcello Sanguineti (CAI Chiavari) to attempt the full five-peak traverse of...
EXPOSURE, WEATHERYukon, Kluane National Park, Mount Logan, King TrenchAn eight-member team from North Shore Rescue set out on May 7 to climb Mount Logan in the Yukon, Canada’s highest peak at 5,959 meters (19,541 feet), to celebrate the 40th anniv...
Annapurna III, Southeast Pillar Attempt and Tragedy. Our team of Jon Tinker, Rob Uttley, Trevor Pilling and me reached Base Camp on September 5. The walk-in to the upper Seti Khola was awkward and in places dangerous. We were only the second exped...
Ganesh IV Tragedy. No one knows the results of the first Polish attempt on Ganesh IV. Leader Karol Sopicki, Boguslaw Janczala and Krzysztof Przystal disappeared into the fog blanketing the mountain on November 5 and were never seen again. When the...
Bhagirathi III, West Face, New Route. Alexander Odintsov, Igor Potankin, Yuri Koshelenko, Vladimir Kachkov, Andrey Lukin, Ivan Samoilenko, and Lioudmila Krestina (doctor) arrived at the Bhagirathi Base Camp in Nandanvan on August 25. The expeditio...
Tilitso Attempt. Swiss climbers, Bruno Zaugg and Marco Battaglia, climbed for only two days on Tilitso’s northeast spur, carrying supplies up from Base Camp to 5800 meters. On October 3, they decided that the snow conditions were too unsafe to con...
Mowich Face. Rising steeply in a nearly smooth wall of ice and incipient rock-ridges, about two miles across and 4000 feet high, the northwest face of Mount Rainier directly above the heads of North Mowich and Edmunds glaciers has long discouraged...
Mount Chaval, North Ridge. Jim McCarthy, Phil Leatherman, Paula Kregel and I climbed Mount Chaval’s north ridge in mid-August. Well-broken but solid granite rock offered a pleasant alpine scramble with two pitches of harder climbing on the steepes...
Aguja de la Silla, East Spur, and Aguja Bífida, North Face. On February 21, Swiss Peter Lüthi and Argentine Horacio Bresba made the first ascent of the Aguja de la Silla (2978 meters, 9770 feet) by its eastern spur. They approached via the Paso Su...
Banner Peak, East Face. On August 9 and 10, Arne Myrabo and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the east face of Banner Peak. No evidence of a previous ascent was discovered. The route starts about 200 feet to the right of the east-face...
FALL ON APPROACH ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED Washington, North CascadesOn March 22, 1986, Ulrich Ganz (46), Juan Esteban Lira (33) and I (Mark Dale [31])hiked up Thunder Creek in the North Cascades with the intent of climbing Primus Peak in two days. A...
Caucasus: The projects of two Swiss climbers, Messrs. Mägglin and Heglin, came to an abrupt end with their disappearance on July 26th, 1931, together with two Russians, while they were attempting the first ascent of the Misses Tau. Their sleeping-...
FALL ON ROCK ON DESCENT—AFTER FREEING RAPPEL ROPE, LOSS OF CONCENTRATION, UNROPED Colorado, International WallOn June 25, 1988, a 175 meter route was completed on a granite wall (International Wall) approximately one half mile west of Shoshone Dam...
Mount Spender or Chongtar Attempt. Mountain Travel obtained a permit for the first American expedition to the Chinese Karakoram. We were Jim Bridwell, leader, Sergio Fitch-Watkins, Dr. John Allen, Pauline Green, Dr. Paul Kustra, Barry Rosenbaum, J...
Yale Mountaineering Club. Although members of the Y.M.C. have been active in many of the ranges of this country and in Alaska and Europe during this past year, no overly sensational ascents were made.It is still premature to state the outcome of o...
The University of Colorado has instituted a Mountaineers Register where climbers register before climbs and check in at the end. This has worked very successfully and is recommended for other similarly situated groups.
The Crown (Huang Guan Shan) Attempt. Our 14-man expedition was composed of Y. Hirose, N. Kondo, R. Tateyama, H. Shimizu, N. Shimizu, M. Ochiai, M. Hoshino, R. Okamoto, K. Uchiyama, T. Sakurai, T. Yamamoto, T. Mizuno, J. Tayama and me as leader. We...
Snowdon Biography, by Geoffrey Winthrop Young, Geoffrey Sutton, and Wilfrid Noyce. London: J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd., 1957, 194 pages; 24 ills. ; end-paper map. Price $3.64.To the American who has climbed in the Welsh mountains, or who has read e...
REVIEW OF REPORTED ACCIDENTS 1954Maine, Mt. Katahdin—At 2:00 p.m. on April 5, 1954, while descending the Saddle Slide, unroped and without an ice ax, Ernest Oikelmus (21), a member of the Harvard Outing Club, lost a crampon. Apparently it was a fa...