The Mountain Rescue Council of Seattle is an extremely active group and does excellent work in rescue and education. They have worked out a well integrated rescue technique involving police, Coast Guard, and a volunteer group of mountaineers. They...
Koshi Toshi Attempt, Kunlun Mountains. An eight-member expedition under the leadership of Hisahiro Moro’oka attempted Koshi Toshi Mustagh (6699 meters, 21,979 feet). They had a difficult approach and got to Base Camp west of the peak at 3800 meter...
Maine, Mt. Katahdin—At 2:00 p.m. on April 5, 1954, while descending the Saddle Slide, unroped and without an ice ax, Ernest Oikelmus (21), a member of the Harvard Outing Club, lost a crampon. Apparently it was a failure of the strap which either b...
Glencoe Spire, South Face. This route, which lies on the western portion of the south face, was climbed first by William Buckingham and Bea Vogel on July 28. From the base of the headwall below the black dike and Glencoe Spire and just to the east...
Sani Pakhush. German Hubert Bleicher led five Germans who climbed Sani Pakhush (6885 meters, 22,590 feet). Details are lacking.
Schoolhouse, Windowsill. A window, beneath the large boulder in the notch just west of the Schoolhouse, was reached directly from the north by Robert Fenichel, Mary L. Denman, and Robert Hoguet, III, on August 12. The route used was the face just ...
Dzo Jongo. This lovely peak (6120 meters, 20,079 feet), which rises above the Markha valley in Zanskar, was climbed by Germans Frank Seubert and Ms. Birgit Rossberg on August 17. They followed the north ridge.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
Goya Peak, first ascent. Our small multinational team of Jeremy Frimer (Canada), Sarah Hart (Canada), Michel van der Spek (The Netherlands) and I made two first ascents of alpine rock climbs in the Miyar Valley. We established base camp at the usu...
Nevado Tres Cruces, Various Ascents. A joint expedition by Bob Villarreal (USA), Fritz Radun (Germany) and Greg Horne (Canada) spent March 8 to 20 on this massif, climbing all three 6000-meter summits (first ascents in 1937 and 1973). The north su...
Graves Lake Dome, South Face and Spider Peak, North Face, Wind River Range. On July 29, after an invigorating 18-mile approach from the south, I completed a solo ascent of the Becky aid route on Graves Lake Dome (P 10818). Eliminating the aid on t...
STRANDED, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDINGABILITIES, NO HARD HATWest Virginia, Seneca Rocks, Old Man’s RouteOn June 6, 1994, Alex Fraser (23) fell to his death at Seneca Rocks. Here is the account of his partner.We hiked up to the wall, p...
New Colorado Climbs, 1982. Despite the intense new-route activity of the last few years, climbers in the Boulder area continue to find first ascents on both new and established crags. In early spring, Alec Sharp and Matt Lavender climbed Victim of...
Narayan Parbat. A report from Naini Tal, also in July 1951, tells of a three-month journey by two Swiss mountaineers in the Badrinath area. Bad weather prevented exploration of many high peaks; but the two, who used no porters the entire time, suc...
Inspiration Peak, first winter ascent. On February 7 Forrest Murphy and I left the Goodell Creek trailhead early and, using snowshoes, made it to a camp midway up the Terror Glacier that afternoon. The unusually low snowpack helped make the approa...
Mount Foraker. The expedition of the Academic Research Team of Tokushima University was led by Takashi Watanabe. We made Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier on June 26. Camp I was placed at the foot of the icefall on June 28 and Camp II at 8500 on J...
Mount Winstone, North Face, and North Face Direct, 1983. In early August 1983, Fred Beckey, Greg Collum, Jim Nelson, Chuck Gerson and I walked up the glacier below Winstone’s north face. Fred had to turn back because of injuries from a recent car ...
Allan Peak and Mt. Ennis. The route described under Mt. Allan should be applied to Mt. Ennis, and, unless other information is forthcoming, Allan Peak is considered to be as yet unascended. Mt. Ennis has been ascended by two routes: (1) The probab...
Kankar Pünzum Attempt, 1986. (The report on this expedition has only just now become available. —Editor.) A team of five Britons, an American and a New Zealander was led by Steve Berry. In October of 1986 they took ten days to reach Base Camp at 1...
Shishapangma. Dr. Makoto Hara led another Nagoya High-Mountain Research Institute expedition, this time to Shishapangma. All members reached the summit by the normal route. One of the members, Masaaki Tomita, made an amazingly fast ascent from Adv...
Cashan Este, Mathi, Matias. In July 1998 I departed from Olleros and walked toward Rurec's Quebrada (creek), before arriving at Tararhua Lake (4400m), where I set up my tent. From there I went to the southeast face of Cashan (5723m). I climbed in ...