The Endless Knot: K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny. Kurt Diemberger. Translated by Audrey Salkeld. Grafton Books, London, 1991. 308 pages, profusely illustrated; diagrams and tables, necrology and bibliography. $32. This is not so much a mountai...
Lindita Peak, Chugach Mountains. Jon Fisher and I organized this trip to the head of the Tazlina Glacier. The whole party, Gary Bennin- ger, Gregory Bramlet, Fisher, Halford Joiner, Tom Lamb, Bill Plock, Dr. Randall Travis and I, made the third as...
Thanglasgo Valley, Big Rock Candy Mountain, first ascent; Dawa Peak, Kangsaimathung and Peak 2, new routes. Sheltered in the rain shadow of higher Himalayan peaks, the Nubra Valley is almost high-altitude desert, often expedition-friendly when oth...
FALLING ROCK—Alberta, Lake Louise. Stephen Pope was hiking in the Beehive area behind Lake Louise on July 31 and sat to eat lunch below a rock face. A large boulder fell and crushed his femur. (Source: Banff Crag and Canyon, early August, 1977.)An...
Nevado del Ruiz, Cordillera Central. The Alaska Andean Expedition, David P. Johnston, Peter H. Robinson and I, traversed the Nevado del Ruiz icecap from north to south by way of the 17,180-foot summit on February 19 and two days later climbed it a...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE and HAPE, HACE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressChihiro Sakamaki flew to the Kahiltna base camp on June 10 and immediately began climbing the West Buttress reaching the 14,200 foot camp within 10 days. By June 19, ...
Alte Bündner Bauweise und Volkskunst, by Hans Jenny. 8 vo., 178 pages, with 209 figures, 25 of which are in color, from drawings and painting by the author. Chur: Bischofberger & Co., 1939.The climber who feels that the Alps have lost the glow...
Bojohaghur II (Ultar) Attempt, 1992. A Japanese three-man expedition, led by Toshio Narita, attempted to climb Bojohaghur II, which is also known as Ultar, (7388 meters, 24,240 feet) from Ahmad Abad Glacier. After placing Base Camp at 4000 meters ...
Inner Constance Pinnacles. The easternmost of three pinnacles lying on a spur ridge extending northwest from the north end of the Inner Constance Ridge was climbed June 17, by Pete Schoening, Brian Gordon, and Jim Lindsay. The pinnacle was named “...
Lapplanderfahrt im Rentier-Schlitten, by Liselotte Kattwinkel. 216 pages, 37 photographic illustrations by the author and eleven sketches. Braunschweig: Georg Westermann Verlag, 1951. Price, $3.25.One of the most interesting books about life above...
The Snout, The Golden Ramp Route. After the rain made it impossible for Jay ]Ossiander and me to do the east face of Liberty Bell, we started to look around for something short to climb. Hiking south of the Cutthroat Lake trail, a half-mile from C...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. 1988 and 1989 were very good years for climbers in the Cascade Section. As usual, members participated in expeditions all over the globe, with particularly good results on both years on Kangchenjunga. Carlos Buhler has bee...
Central Argentina. The highest peak in the Mongotes group, a snow and ice peak about 19,350 feet high, was climbed in January by R. Arci- diácono, J. Bello and E. Fiorentini. In the Enanos group, just to the south, in January the first ascents wer...
Cerro Torre. John Bragg, Jay Wilson and Dave Carman made the second ascent during the 1976-7 season of the west face of Cerro Torre, following the route climbed by the Italians in 1974. They climbed in semi-alpine style. It took them one day to ge...
Mount Englehard, Northwest Couloir, Columbia Icefield. In early September Tom Kimbrell, Dave Hough and I climbed the northwest couloir of Mount Englehard. We had 700 feet of reliable 60° ice in the upper couloir. The bottom section will vary signi...
Lone Peak, West Flank of South Peak. On June 16 Bob Irvine and I put a new route up the west end of the nearly vertical wall of the south peak of Lone Peak. We named the route “Lone Pine”, as its finish is capped with a single pine tree. The first...
Chopicalqui, Northwest Face, Solo in one day. From camp at 13,125 feet above Yurac Corral in the Quebrada Llanganuco, I decided to attempt a new route on the northwest face of Chopicalqui to the left of the route climbed in 1981 by Sigayret, the R...
SLIP ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED Wyoming, TetonsJames (24) and Claude (29) Kelly were climbing the Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton on July 2. After climbing the “Open Book” pitch on the ridge, approximately 200 to 300 feet below the summit, the Kellys...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, CLIMBING UNROPED– NO EQUIPMENTNorth Carolina, Table Rock MountainOn July 19 a hiker turned climber fell after scrambling in the vicinity of the Wasp (5.7). He fell approximately 30 to 40 feet, sustaining severe h...
Central North Island, summary. Richard Thomson’s new guidebook to the Tongariro National Park may have kicked off some fresh enthusiasm, or maybe it was the good early season conditions. Either way some great-looking ice and mixed routes were clim...