P 6247, South of Gorichen, Arunachal Pradesh, 1987. A 37-member team of the 21st Mountain Division of the Indian Army was led by Lieutenant Colonel Subhendu Sen. They left Chansari railway station in Assam on September 29, 1987 and went via Sela t...
Shishapangma, 1981. In A.A.J., 1982 we mentioned the ascent of Reinhold Messner and Friedl Mutschlechner but we lacked details. The pair got to the summit on May 27, 1981 by a route which lies to the right of the normal route. An article with a sk...
Churup, 496spa-$mos. On October 2,I placed my tent at the upper Churup Lake and the next day broke trail to the base of the wall, where I left ropes, harness, and ice ax. On October 4 it took 1 hour and 30 minutes to return to the base, thanks to ...
Ranrapalca, Southwest Ridge. After having faced the Customs bureaucrats of Callao, we split into two groups. Five of us packed the equipment we brought in the plane and went beyond Huaraz to reconnoiter. The last two of us hired a customs-broker, ...
Lichtenberg Mountain, Winter Ascent. Ken Johnson and I climbed a delightful mixed route on December 16. We skied a couple of miles to Valhalla Lake directly below Lichtenberg Mountain and northeast of Stevens Pass. Leaving our skis behind, we star...
HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIIPMENT California, Yosemite National Park, Polly DomeOn May 16, 1987, at 1445, three climbers at the top of the third pitch of the Great White Book on Polly Dome were requesting assistance after having been cau...
FALL ON ROCK, LOWERING ERROR-LOST CONTROL OF BELAY AND NO KNOT IN END OF ROPE, NO HARD HATColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, RinconOn January 19, James Harr (25) fell to his death when his partner Dave Booton lost control of the climbing rope h...
Ganesh II Attempt. Nine Swiss climbers led by Roland Garin attempted to climb Ganesh II. They wanted to climb the west ridge from the col between Ganesh II and Pabil (Ganesh IV). They placed two camps above Base Camp and planned a Camp III at 6700...
Big Four, North Face. January 3, 1974, Rich Carlstad and Cal Folsom climbed the gully to the east of the standard north rib route. Descent was made by Route Two to the saddle between Hall Peak and Big Four. 13 hours round trip.
Mount Chamberlain, Mount Whitney Area; Incredible Hulk, Little Slide Canyon; Outguard Spire, Little Slide Canyon. In September, Julie Brugger and I climbed a new route to the left of the Fiddler-Harrington route on the north face of Mount Chamberl...
Colorado, North Maroon. On 15 August Edward H. Hilliard (47), and Ann Noyes Fowler (39), Rodney Aller (53), and Rodney Aller, Jr. (21) started at 7:00 a.m. from the bench at timber line below the dam on the northeast side of the North Maroon.There...
The complete reports of the climbing accomplished by the Andes Expedition of the D. u. O. A. V. has just appeared in its Zeitschrift for 1929. The purely mountaineering aspects of the trip were often subordinated to the necessity of assisting in t...
The Mountaineer’s Companion, edited by Michael Ward. London: Eyre & Spottiswoode, Ltd., 1966. 598 pages, 24 black and white photographs, 1 color photograph, 20 drawings, 3 maps. Price 50s.This excellent British anthology of writings on mountai...
Shivling, Northeast Face. Paolo Bernascone, Fabrizio Manoni and I as leader got to Base Camp on June 3. From June 4 to 12 we reconnoitered the normal route and our objective, the unclimbed northeast face. After three rest days, we set out at eight...
Koh-i-Safed, Warmano Valley. The Tokyo Gakugei University expedition, led by Izomu Ikeba and Akio Yamada, had 11 members. Leaving Kabul on July 21, they crossed the Anjuman on the 30th and reached Base Camp at 12,500 feet in the Warmano valley on ...
McKinley North Summit, Telemark Ski Descent of Wickersham Wall. Starting on May 5, Tyson Bradley and John Montecucco made a ski descent of the rarely climbed Wickersham Wall. They dropped down from Kahiltna Pass to the Peters Glacier. They climbed...
Everest Map, Second Edition. A second edition of the National Geographic map of Mount Everest, 1:50,000, will appear in June. It is being published by the Boston Museum of Science and the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research in Zürich. This editio...
Ak Su, north face, new route in winter. Before climbing Ak-Su (5,355m), we already had expedition experience on big walls in winter, which proved very useful. We decided to climb a new route because Balezin had seen the possibility of an interesti...
Annapurna II. The members of the Sangaku Doshikai expedition were Yukio Takafu, Nobuyuki Ogawa, Katsuyuki Kondo, Nase Sakashita, Dr. Tashitaka Sakano and I as leader. We repeated the route done from the north in 1971 by Shinshu University. We asce...
Hypoxia: The Tolerable Limits. John R. Sutton, Charles S. Houston and Geoffrey Coates, editors. Benchmark Press, Indianapolis, 1988. 380 pages, charts, tables. $48.00.This record of the Fifth International Symposium on Hypoxia consists of thirty c...