Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Mountains, Charakusa Region, Various Ascents, Previously Unreported

Charakusa Region, Various Ascents, Previously Unreported. Giangi Angeloni, Angelo Carminati and Ennio Spiranelli traveled to the Charakusa Glacier (Hushe Valley) in August, 1997. Various ascents were made: Sulo Peak (6000m) by the South Couloir (5...


Club Activities AAJ
Harvard Mountaineering Club

Harvard Mountaineering Club. The summer activities of the H.M.C. in 1950 included the ascent of Nevado Yerupajá, Peru, by the Harvard Andean Expedition; and an expedition into the Glacier Circle area of the southern Selkirks, which made ascents of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, P 6390, Ishmurgh Valley

P 6390, Ishmurgh Valley. The expedition of the Hiroshima University Medical School Alpine Club climbed in the Chap Darra valley, the western fork at the head of the Ishmurgh valley. On August 5 the leader Tsuyoshi Hirai, Katsuji Doishikawa and Hir...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori

Pumori. The leader of our Indonesian expedition was Gunawan and the members were Eddy Djuandi, Sukmoyo, Nandang Syamsudin, Trivoni Sugiarto Senapi, Djodjo Sunardjo and me, the only woman. We reached Base Camp at 5340 meters on April 6 after a seve...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile—Tierra del Fuego, Monte Sarmiento, Attempt on Unclimbed West Summit

Monte Sarmiento, Attempt on Unclimbed West Summit, Tierra del Fuego. November 16 was the only stormless day in the 42 we spent on the expedition. At seven A.M. it stopped raining and the wind dropped at Base Camp on the Canal Magdalena at the nort...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Staunings Alper

Staunings Alper. Members of the Islandic Alpine Club chartered a plane and flew on July 21 from Iceland to Mestervig. The plane then dropped their gear on the Bersaekerbrae Glacier. Four days later they established Base Camp at 700 meters. They un...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall Into Crevasse, Washington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham Glacier

FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierAbout 5:00 p.m. on July 7, rangers at Camp Muir were notified by Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., of a climbing team of three at the 13,000-foot level on the Ingraham Glacier in possible ne...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Jogin I, North Ridge, 1983

Jogin I, NorthRidge, 1983. Eight Japanese led by Kaoru Aoyagi established Base Camp at 15,425 feet on Kedar Tal on September 8, 1983, Advance Base at 16,075 feet on the 11th and Camps I and II at 18,550 and 19,850 feet on the 18th and 22nd. On Sep...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, "Paramount Peak," Farnham Group

“Paramount Peak”, Farnham Group. At 9900 feet “Paramount Peak” is the higher of two prominent rock peaks located at the southern extremity of the Farnham group and visible along parts of the Toby Creek road west of Invermere. On July 23 my wife Gr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Sierra de Sangra, Cerro Cocoví (2,155m), North Flank

Sierra de Sangra, Cerro Cocoví (2,155m), north flank. The Sierra de Sangra includes an icefield of ca 100km2, east of Lago San Martin, in the province of Santa Cruz. Its highest peak, marked on the map as 2,155m, had no name. It was time it was cl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protetion Pulled out, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Bastille, Werk Supp

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Bastille, Werk SuppOn July 14, Preston Brennan (47), an experienced climber, and his partner were climbing Werk Supp, a 5.9 route located on the Bastille. Witnesses noted tha...


Accident Reports ANAM
Maine—Katahdin

REVIEW OF ACCIDENTS 1953Maine—Katahdin: David Ripley (21) of Belmont, Mass., while leading, suffered a fall of about 100 feet on September 12, 1953. He was rock climbing with Robert Kruseyna (25) on Pamola. His fall was down a slope and not a shee...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. The Bavarian-Austrian Nanga Parbat Expedition was composed of Austrians Peter Wörgötter, deputy leader, Oswald Gassier and Hans Hirschbichler and Germans Joachim Labisch and me as leader. Our objective had been to make t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Southern Sierra, Domelands, Poison Domes, Various Ascents

Southern Sierra, Domelands, Poison Domes, Various Ascents. Over the past three summers, spurred on by Mark Robinson’s persistence and love for steep rock, Steve Offerman, Mark and I established nine new rock climbs, ranging in difficulty from 5.10...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountain, Bow Summit Area, Wet Dream Falls

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow Summit Area, Wet Dream FallsOn Feb. 2,1993, a party of two were climbing the first pitch of this ice gully The leader, P.F., placed a screw midway up his 16 meter lead, and unsuccessf...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Radhanath

Radhanath. A 12-member Indian team from Calcutta arrived at Base Camp at Vasuki Tal at 16,450 feet on June 17. They set up Camps I and II at 17,400 and 18,800 feet on June 18 and 19. Leader Bibhas Das, Chinmoy Ghosh and porters Balbir Singh and Dh...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Lahul, Unnamed Peak on Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley

Unnamed peak on the Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley. Four Italians, Roberto Iannilli, Marco Marciano, Moritz Tirler, and Giovanni Rivolta, attempted a route toward the left side of the big rock wall that forms the west face of the impressive unnam...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. The highlight of the year’s activity was the summer western outing in the Bridger Wilderness Area of the Wind River Range in Wyoming. The outing was planned and coordinated by Jack Curtin, the outing chairman. In confo...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C. Blue Ridge Section

A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. The year 1988 was one of consolidation in the Blue Ridge Section. Several members were active throughout the mountain ranges of the world, while others devoted their time to climbing closer to home. In all, however, the...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Biggest Bear on Earth

Snowshoe Country, by Florence Page Jaques. 4to., 110 pages, with numerous illustrations from each pen drawings of Francis Lee Jaques. Minneapolis; University of Minnesota, 1944. Price $3.00.The illustrations sell this book on sight, and the text i...