Devil’s Tower. An excellent article on all climbs done to date on the Devil’s Tower appeared in the July-August 1982 Climbing, starting on page 20. Several new climbs which were done too late to include in the article appear on page 6 of the same ...
FALL ON ROCK, CARABINER FAILURE Colorado, Arthur’s RockOn April 22, 1979, John Newman and Phyllis Kawanabe were climbing an unnamed route on the south side of Arthur’s Rock, three miles west of Fort Collins, Colorado. At 2 p.m. Kawanabe establishe...
K2, Northwest Ridge Attempt. Matt Culberson, Lyle Dean, Larry Hall, Ron Johnson, Dr. Allen McPherson, Jay Shotwell and I arrived in Base Camp on June 11. We hoped to climb K2 by the unrepeated Northwest Ridge, first climbed by Pierre Beghin and Ch...
Chamlang. The Hokkaido University Mount Chamlang Expedition was composed of Dr. Seiki Nakano, leader; Takeo Okamoto, Susumu Koya-yashi, Toshi-kazu Nagamitsu, Hisashi Kukimura, Soh Anma and Yoshihiro Suzuki. We left Birathnagar on April 15, passed ...
Mount Owen, First Winter Ascent. The astonishingly short list of successful winter climbs in the Tetons was lengthened significantly on December 19 and 20, when the first winter ascents of Mount Owen were made by a group from the Wasatch Mountain ...
Mukut Parbat. Anderson Bakewell, S. J., reports that a New Zealand party led by H. E. Riddiford climbed Mukut Parbat (23,760 ft.) in July 1951.
The Chopping Block, first winter ascent. On February 14, 2004, I hiked in via Goodell Creek and The Barrier to climb the Southeast Face route. The next day, from below the east face, I climbed a steep, north-facing gully to gain the southeast ridg...
FALL ON ICE, EXHAUSTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Louise FallsOn December 31, 1981, two men were ice climbing on Louise Falls at Lake Louise. The leader was making the final move when he fell approximately 50 feet. His fall was held by his belayer ...
FALL THROUGH CORNICE, OFF ROUTE, UNROPEDAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount BalfourOn April 12, N.F., a ski patroller from Whistler and member of the ACC Whistler section, was skiing the Wapta Icefield traverse with two companions, D.S. and G.M. T...
Mount Allen, Goodsirs Group. On July 21, Gertrude Smith, Don Redman, Bernie de Vos and I made the third ascent of Mount Allen by a new route. Climbing from the Canadian Alpine Club Camp we crossed the lower Vaux Glacier to about the middle of the ...
Makalu II or Kangchungtse Attempt. Armando Menocal, Jim Jennings, Ken Morr, Geoff Radford, Mike Warburton, my wife Elizabeth and I arrived at Tumlingtar on April 17 and established Base Camp on April 26. We gradually moved up towards Makalu II, an...
Siula Grande, West Face, Avoiding the Touch. On June 16, Carlos Buhler and I completed a new route on the west face of Siula Grande in the Cordillera Hauyhuash of Peru. This was the same mountain face on which the British climbers Joe Simpson and ...
Mount Foraker. A Japanese expedition which climbed Mount McKinley sent two members, Gentaro Sakae and Hidenobu Tezuka, to the summit of Foraker. It is not known by which route.
Mount Everest. Our expedition consisted of New Zealander Nick Banks, American Ray Genet, Swiss Hans von Känel, Germans Tilman Fischbach, Günter Kämpfe, Dr. Herman Warth, my wife Hannelore Schmatz and me as leader. We left Kathmandu on July 31 but ...
Pumori. The four members of our expedition were Pierre Faivre, Jean-François Lemoine, Guy Mevellec and I, all mountain guides. We made an alpine-style ascent of the south ridge (French route of 1972) and descended the east ridge, the normal route....
Peaks on the Kaskawulsh Glacier. Six members from the Queen Mary College Mountaineering Club of the University of London undertook a two-week expedition to the Kaskawulsh Glacier. We commenced from the south end of Kluane Lake on July 11 and proce...
From April 14 to May 5 Louise Jarry, Vicki Sahanatien, Doug Stern, Vivian Wasiuta, and I made a ski traverse of an unnamed icefield on the Cumberland Peninsula from Iqalugajut Fiord to Kaniqturusiq Fiord (south fork of Padle Fiord), all east of Ki...
Vanguard Peak. The same party. Listed in Guidebook as having elevation of 8800 ft. The summit, which bore no cairn, is as high as Mt. Niles, and therefore about 9600 ft. Guidebook probably refers to slabby E. shoulder prominent from Wapta camp, wi...
North and South of Pelechuco, Cordillera Apolobamba, 1985 and 1986. The tortuous road from Ulla Ulla to Pelechuco roughly divides the Cordillera Apolobamba into a northern half that extends from Bolivia into Peru and a southern half that lies enti...
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. Craig McGee, Sean Easton, and Eamonn Walsh spent time on the south side of Waddington late in July. Their major accomplishment was an outstanding new ice route (Uber Groove, 600m, ED1 ice to 90°) well left of...