FALL ON ROCK—HAND-HOLD CAME OFF, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park, Gumby RoofOn June 14 at 12:55 p.m. I was informed that Gaston County Sheriffs Department had received a 911 call from a cellular telep...
Canterbury region, summary. A couple of new alpine routes were climbed in the Canterbury mountains. Guy McKinnon, alone again, climbed a new 350m route on the east face of Mt. Evans (2,620m), while Don French and James Wright climbed a new route u...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearU.S.A.-CAN.U.SA.-CAN.U.SA.-CAN.U.S.A.-CAN.1951142110319522932171319532427141219543141318195534392913195646715118195745532818195831372111195941–254–231–019–2196046–360–113...
Mariposa and P5680, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our group, Volker Vogt, John Harkness, Roger Hendrix, Susan Godfrey, Joseph Weis and I, made Base Camp on June 12 at 15,500 feet at the headwaters of the Río Pachanta, northeast of Ausangate. We attempted ...
Ice conditions. The most-classic ice routes of Grand Teton National Park melted out for the second year in a row. The Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton became unclimbable in the midsummer (2003), and the ice in the Northwest Couloir of Middle T...
Death Canyon, Cathedral Rocks, “Escape from Death.” This fine route (II, F7, A2) was climbed from Death Canyon on July 5 by Rick Reese, Ted Wilson, and Mike Ermarth. Starting in a large, prominent chimney at the base of the southwest ridge of Cath...
Polar Bear Peak, Northwest Face, Chugach Mountains. During beautiful weather and suprisingly mild temperatures, Charlie Sassara and I climbed Polar Bear Peak (6619 feet) during February 15 to 17. Believed to be only the third ascent of the mountai...
Koh-e-Bandaka Sakhi Attempt. The members of our expedition gathered in Kabul in the middle of July. We were Vincens Mans, Manuel Borch, Francesc Pañella, Joan Talarn, Miquel Castellsagué Josep Blasi and I as leader. After a delay of a week over pe...
Mount Stuart, Northeast Face of False Summit, Blue Moon in June. This route, climbed by James Ruch and me on June 5, ascended an obvious ice gully originating high on the Cliff Glacier, 100 meters below the start of the Ice Cliff Glacier Couloir. ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Banff National Park, Tunnel Mountain, GooseberryOn August 26, a lead climber in a party took a 30 to 40 foot lead fall on third pitch of Gooseberry (II, 5.6) on Tunnel Mountain. He sustained a back inju...
Gangotri Region. There were a number of successful expeditions in the Gangotri region. Japanese Masaki Ohashi and Kaoru Totani climbed Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) on September 30 by the north ridge. Another Japanese expedition led by Mako...
Phenocryst Spire, The Hustler. Mark Reeves and Steve Sinfield, supported by the Welsh Sports Council, arrived at Glacier Lake on July 30. They slogged to Fairy Meadows, set up camp, and waited most of a week for better weather before climbing the ...
Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Mountaineering by Peter Crew. London: Constable & Co., Ltd. 140 pages. 30s.In climbing as in other fields there are a number of books that make the readers wonder why someone has taken the trouble to write them. Thi...
“Valhalla" Group. Up the south fork of the Hoh River there seemed to be unclimbed peaks about three miles from Mount Olympus on the southwest ridge towards Pelton Peak, reminiscent of the Bugaboos on a miniature scale. After a reconnaissance ended...
Nevado Cajón, Pre-Columbian and Modern Ascents. The “Momia de Los Quilmes” was possibly an Inca mummy found between 1920 and 1924 in some unknown place near Cafayate, in Salta Province, northern Argentina. The mummy itself is presumably lost but A...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. During the past year our emphasis was on local practice outings at Devils Lake, Wisconsin, where a greater than usual number of outings were conducted. The club’s property near the state park serves as a refuge for man...
On July 29, 1978, Sheldon Moomaw was killed in a fall on 24,580-foot Noshaq in Afghanistan. With his passing, the climbing world has lost one of its most enthusiastic climbers. At 23,000 feet on Noshaq (after a long day of carrying 50-1b. loads), ...
Chola Shan I and Chola Shan II, Ascents, and Gurla Mandhata, Attempt. It was reported that in late summer and early fall, Charlie Fowler visited China and Tibet, making a solo second ascent of Chola Shan I (6168m) and a first ascent, also solo, of...
Kangchenjunga Attempt. An Australian expedition of five tried to climb Kangchenjunga by the normal route on the southwest face. Leader Michael Groom reached the expedition’s highest point alone on May 13 in a bid to see how high he could get above...
Jirishanca, East Face Attempt, Cordillera Huayhuash. The Moji Alpine Club of Kitakyushu City was led by Yoshijiro Fujishiro and had six other members. They set Base Camp at Carhuacocha on May 29, Camp I at 16,400 feet on June 7 and Camp II just un...