Mount Spender or Chongtar Attempt. Mountain Travel obtained a permit for the first American expedition to the Chinese Karakoram. We were Jim Bridwell, leader, Sergio Fitch-Watkins, Dr. John Allen, Pauline Green, Dr. Paul Kustra, Barry Rosenbaum, J...
Yale Mountaineering Club. Although members of the Y.M.C. have been active in many of the ranges of this country and in Alaska and Europe during this past year, no overly sensational ascents were made.It is still premature to state the outcome of o...
The University of Colorado has instituted a Mountaineers Register where climbers register before climbs and check in at the end. This has worked very successfully and is recommended for other similarly situated groups.
The Crown (Huang Guan Shan) Attempt. Our 14-man expedition was composed of Y. Hirose, N. Kondo, R. Tateyama, H. Shimizu, N. Shimizu, M. Ochiai, M. Hoshino, R. Okamoto, K. Uchiyama, T. Sakurai, T. Yamamoto, T. Mizuno, J. Tayama and me as leader. We...
Snowdon Biography, by Geoffrey Winthrop Young, Geoffrey Sutton, and Wilfrid Noyce. London: J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd., 1957, 194 pages; 24 ills. ; end-paper map. Price $3.64.To the American who has climbed in the Welsh mountains, or who has read e...
REVIEW OF REPORTED ACCIDENTS 1954Maine, Mt. Katahdin—At 2:00 p.m. on April 5, 1954, while descending the Saddle Slide, unroped and without an ice ax, Ernest Oikelmus (21), a member of the Harvard Outing Club, lost a crampon. Apparently it was a fa...
Kulu Pumori and Shigri Parbat. A 44-man expedition from the Indian Border Security Force climbed both of these peaks. Three transit camps were placed on the Bara Shigri Glacier and Advance Base at Concordia at 4900 meters. There they split into tw...
Symmetry Crag No. 4, South Face. William Buckingham and Fred Wright climbed this route on July 12, making the approach from the Symmetry-Ice Point saddle. The down-sloping handholds and knife-blade piton cracks made the climb more difficult than m...
Ultar (Bojohagur Duanasir II) Attempt and Tragedy. Our nine-member expedition was led by my husband Tsuneo Hasegawa, whose expedition last year attempted unclimbed Ultar (Bojohagur Duanasir II; 7388 meters, 24,240 feet) but had to give up 300 mete...
Disappointment Peak, South Central Buttress, Variation. A new climb (II, F5) on this broad buttress was made on August 9 by Sherman Lehman, William Hooker, and W. E. Kirkpatrick. This party started below the bottom of the Merriam Couloir, taking t...
Brammah II. Eleven Indian Para Commando soldiers climbed Brammah II (6425 meters, 21,080 feet), which had been previously unsuccessfully at tempted by two foreign and many Indian expeditions. Three batches climbed the peak, the first led by leader...
Kang Yissay, possible new route. It is reported that on July 17 Spanish climber Santiago Sagaste soloed what is believed to be a new route on the northeast face of this very popular 6,400m mountain above the Nimaling Plains in Zanskar. We have no ...
Cerro Morado, Vasquez Route. Pablo Besser and Waldo Farias climbed the South Face of Cerro Morado (5050 meters). The route was ice and 18 pitches long. We started February 15 in the Morales Valley, sleeping at the base. After a rest day we started...
Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt. The final part of our Devoid Triple North Walls project was supposed to be a return to Talung in the Kangchenjunga massif. [Editor’s note: Their 2008 new routes on Kapura, in Pakistan, and on Uparisina, in ...
“Sail Pinnacle”, South Face, Wind River Range. This alluring pinnacle lies 1.25 miles due west of the summit of Squaretop Mountain and .4 miles northeast of P 11,530. Our route on the south face has steps and ledge-traverses angling up and west t...
The Western British Mountains, Traverse. The winter in the Brooks Range lasted right up tothe last day in May. On the first day of June, the final winter storm ended and the white carpet of snow gave way to the gray carpet of spring tundra. Six of...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF RAPPEL—ROPE INCORRECTLY PLACEDTHROUGH FIGURE OF EIGHTWest Virginia, New River Gorge NRA, Fern PointOn May 20, 1994, a climber fell 90 feet because he had incorrectly threaded his rappel rope through a Figure Eight descendi...
Avalanche Canyon. Several new climbs have been discovered in the general vicinity of Lake Taminah in the north fork. The larger of two steep buttresses directly north of the lake now has two routes. In August, 1978, Yvon Chouinard, Kent Lugbill, a...
Corrections, Hindu Kush. On page 201 of A.A.J., 1966, it stated that both the American and the Italian expeditions climbed P 6110 meters or Bandaka Uris. It now appears that both groups climbed P 6192 meters (20,315 feet) or Koh-e-Ka-Safed. In mor...
Everest, north face, new route. One of the season’s most important climbs was the ascent of Everest’s great north face by a new direct line from a spot near their advance base camp at 6,200m to the 8,850m summit. During a month-long ascent, the le...