Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Highcamp for the winter McKinley party was a snowcave at 17,200 feet West Buttress. All seven climbers attempted the summit from this camp on 27 February, but were turned back by whiteout and storm at about 19,000 feet. The f...

Mulkila 6 (M6), North Face, Lahul. Our Franco-Swiss expedition consisted of Jean-Jacques Asper, O. Paulin and me. After a seven-day approach, by way of Manali, Rothang Pass, Khoksar, Kyelang, Darcha and Yotse, we reached Base Camp on the Mulkila G...

New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 8 February Henry Townsend (52), Deidre Byers (21), and Robert Hall (22), were descending the Escape Hatch on South Gully after a successful climb of Central Gully. One of the climbers slipped and all three plunged...

FALL ON ICEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Massey Ice FallOn January 9, 1988 (temperature -15 degrees C), Edward and Rick (both 29) set out from the Field railway crossing and started up the normal route on Massey, a grade 3 climb on the north ...

Rimo IV and Other Peaks, 1984. The 25-man Indian Army Engineer expedition reported on briefly on page 308 of A.A.J., 1985 reached the region after a very complicated approach. They got to Base Camp at the snout of the South Rimo Glacier at 15,500 ...

South Face of Disappointment Peak. Near the end of August Dick Pownell suggested that I make a new route with him on the south side of a subsidiary buttress of the Disappointment Peak ridge between Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes. The route requir...

Chimney Rock, Main Peak North Face. Mike Anthony and I climbed the eastern-most chimney on the north face. The chimney was unusual in that it cut very deeply into the peak. The ascent was done on August 10 in a whiteout. We encountered some ice in...

Mount Rainier, Sunset Amphitheater Headwall. On August 1, Brent Eaton and I completed a new direct route on Rainier’s Sunset Amphitheater Headwall. Our route lies on the central buttress directly below Liberty Cap to the left of the 1967 route. It...

Ingalls Peak, East Ridge of the East Peak. This route, first climbed on October 11 by Don Anderson, Barry Prather, Gene Prater and me, ascends the prominent “dike chimney” in the south face of the ridge. This chimney offered grade IV climbing, wit...

ROCK LEDGE BROKE OFF – FALLING ROCK HIT CLIMBING PARTNERAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount YamnuskaOn May 22,JK and A were climbing the Necromancer route (5.10a, eleven pitches) on Mount Yamnuska. JK was leading the second pitch and stepped on a l...

Ojos del Salado: Omission from the 1937 AAJ Article. Inadvertently credit lines and complete captions were omitted from the pictures opposite page 83 in Volume X, Number 2 of the American Alpine Journal, 1957. The upper picture was taken by Juan S...

Annapurna IV. A German expedition under the leadership of Heinz Steinmetz, consisting of Dr. Manfred Bachmann, Harald Biller, Fritz Lobbichler and Jurgen Wellenkamp, successfully ascended 24,688-footAnnapurna IV, which was climbed in 1950 by H. W....

South Twin, King Edward and Sundial. In July and August I spent 18 days alone around the headwaters of the Athabasca River. Seeing the view from the top of Wooley Shoulder, I hoped to climb the regular route on Mount Alberta. Two days later in a s...

Liaylak Valley, Pik Blok, west face. From July 28 to August 6 Belorussian Alexander Maximenja made a solo first ascent on the west face of Pik Blok (5,239m). The new route lies parallel to and left of the Valiev Route, was graded Russian 6A, and h...

Kizil Asker, new route attempt. In July and August, Guy Robertson and I made two attempts on the most compelling alpine ice route either of us has ever seen: the 1300m virgin southeast face of Kizil Asker, the highest peak in the Western Kokshaal-...

Manaslu Traverse. A strong Soviet expedition from the Ukraine with 20 members, 16 of them climbers, was led by Dr. Vladimir Shumikhin and Sergei Bershov. They had hoped to ascend the still unclimbed east face of Manaslu (8163 meters, 26,780 feet)....

Note on Cerro Yagán. In his account of the New Zealand 1970-1 Expedition to Tierra del Fuego (see A.A.J., 1974, p. 202) Michael Andrews says, “The peak named Cerro Yagán by Shipton and said by him to be the same as that named Luigi di Savoia by de...

Solo to the South Pole. Norwegian Erling Kagge set off solo from Bergkner Island on November 17, 1992 for the South Pole, dragging a 125-kilo sled. Without any resupply or other assistance he skied the 1310 kilometers to the Pole, which he reached...

Mount Constance. Jon Olson and I made the first ascent of the north face via Crystal Pass. We placed two bolts; protection was precarious. The route begins 200 yards to the north of the Red Dike route at the base of three prominent cracks, below a...

SLIP ON STEEP SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHINGColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), Longs PeakOn July 22 at about 1300 hours a 68 year-old solo climber notified RMNP Dispatch that he had taken a 30-foo...